Gregg From Keystone Sewing

I think the foot treadle switch is the way to go, still, and like said, the quality is not the best in the history of sewing, but I sell the same item offered here and make it work no problem. Only one's I've seen that are better are sold here in the states, and I have some good used ones, but I really do use the same same as what you are showing from College, they work and are not bad, and have flow control valves installed as well, so you can control cylinder speed so it's not going to hammer up and down when moving.

Wiz, Or, use a needle bar with interchangeable needle clamps, as in the Seiko SKZ-6 series, that screw into the needle bar.

Not many folks know this information, but I'll share with you here. It's rare for a needle shank to change dia. when the needle size changes, as is the case here. 328 Needle system (AKA 214X1, DDX1, N1225) has two different needle shank sizes; 328 Needle sizes NM110~140 / 18~22 have shank dia. 1.98mm 328 Needle sizes NM160~250 / 23~27 have shank dia. 2.46mm This is why some manufactures offer two needle clamp sizes for the same machine that use this system needle, hope this helps!

http://keysew.com/Webpages/DemoImages/LH-515Owners.pdf Got it, fresh scanned, and upload from our physical library of Juki books. Forgot I had this one.

New to me, added to my library as well. I guess this is why OP as asking as well!

See attached image, I think a stitch length regulator/safety clutch parts breakdown is on order. Remove all check screws first, adjust for spring/ball pressure, then reinstall check screws to lock settings in place. If this mechanism appears to be new and not so improved over the preceding 111W stitch length and safety clutch reset system, you are not alone. These units are prone to give service issues. To make matters worse, this setup can easily confuse an operator when they are resetting the clutch or m, but most likely when they are adjusting stitch length, but that's even when it is working correctly. The issues compound when this unit needs to be cleaned and readjusted over time.

By today's standards, quality of the equipment they make is as good as any new machine brand I can think of. That said, I'm not so sure this is a machine the put together themselves.

Impressive. I have seen many homemade mods to sewing machines, some well done with good concepts, some not so much. This is one of the best concept ideas I've seen adapted, and great quality video. Very informative and educational. Thanks for sharing.

Good stuff, most books call this item a 'tension wheel'.

Got any Singer 1911s laying around

There's one for my library, thanks for sharing!

Send it to me, it will be uploaded to our server and I'll share a link for everyone to see and download on this thread, if you like, or you can link to the URL and do what you want with it. Cheers

People do not usually think about their thread until it becomes a problem, either dye running or thread breaking, or maybe break points of threads on test equipment. There are many suppliers, many vendors, and many brand names of thread, many who use the same supplier, but with different name. I think that in the long run, buying good thread will increase productivity, reduce waste, and provide peace of mind. The cost/savings factor per job is not that great, and you should easily be able to build it into the price of the job. Think about it, if your doing a job, lets say for yourself, or a family member, would you choose to use a cone of thread from a reputable suppler, or some over stock no name stuff that may have been sitting for a while? I don't know, that's how I see it, anyways.

199R series have been around for over 30 years from Consew, and every one I've ever setup and sent out did exactly what people had hoped for a long time, from what can remember. So yes, I think the quality is good, as are parts and support for this machine. As for asking if the machine is correct for your application, that's what the dealer is for, in my universe.

It's s cutoff foot from stock, we would call this a zipper foot, this would allow you to get as close to the needle on one side as possible.

Singer part # 200157, 13/64-32, Singer tap, not a metric, SAE or US Standard. This item does appear in the Singer 111W155 parts book, I highlighted the page from the book as it's hard to find and not obvious. In the parts description this does read as 'attaching screw'. Another number 200459, same 13/64-32 thread pitch of course, but is a large thumb screw. Both part numbers are good current part numbers, and should pop right up for anybody who sells these former Singer screws that are now available as generic quality, like everything else. This is used on many Singer, but also many Japanese models, such as a Consew/Seiko 206RB series, they all use this same attaching screw as well.

Funny someone is asking for this. I was ordering parts for a Consew 226R (Old style) and discovered that I did not have a book for this and the 225 as well in my digital library. I didn't like it, you don't like it, so I grabbed the old, old Consew book and scanned a few pages. Now we have it to share! Hope this helps, and kindly realize there are many, various differences in the castings between a 225 and 226 model. If it were easy to do, everybody's 225s and Singer 111W machines would have a reverse. 225, 226R OLD STYLE.pdf

Repair? Are they replacing the motor, or is that what you meant by repair?

Roger that, I was just checking that pinned thread for the 1st time, and was interested in watching the video.

Bump to the top, Wiz does a lot for many folks here, anyone who can help, it would be good looking out for a fellow member.

Link no work!

Kind of an odd ball thing to jump in with, but a lot of these machines that sew close to the edge like this where we are 1/8" are being sewn in production with machines that have choppers, a knife mechanism that cuts as well as sews the material, kind of like a serger or overlock, but for a lock stitch. See attached image for an example of this style machine

I think this is off topic, and I am sure Bob knows this, but it's not uncommon for 3 Phase motor switch boxes to have a provision to lock out the power switch.

I think you are on the correct path, Singer 132K6 is a capable machine, much heavier capacity than a standard canvas and upholstery machine. I think it would be great for that kind of application, and the foot lifts more than the 10mm you need.

http://www.keysew.com/Webpages/DemoImages/Adler267ServiceBook.pdf Check out this attached book, hope it helps.