camano ridge

David if the anvil is mounted on a solid surface, it will work for peening a rivet. You are just using the anvil as a solid surface. Of course bigger can be better.

As Red cent says you might have some problem at CAS matches although I know some clubs run things looser then others so you might be ok at your club but run into problems else where. Here is an excerpt from the SASS handbook: Shotgun ammo loops must conform to the shooters contour (i.e., not tilt out from the belt).

Your welcome and welcome to the forum.

Welcome, as you have probably noticed these forums are very busy. Lot's of idea exchange going on here.

I have made many thumb breaks and I have always used line 24 and never had a proble. The thumb break and strap provides a form of retention. The thumb break allows you to open the strap and remove the pistol easily with one movement. A directional snap like pull the dot might slow down the draw if you do not have it lined up properly and if you don't hit the thumb break just right. HAving said that I have never used a directional snap on a thum break just never found the need.

Rylee, as stated above you are asking us to send our customers to you. There are a couple of things that concern me about your post. Even if you made things that I don't I would hesitate to send people to you. You have just joined Leatherworker.net. You have not posted any of your work. We have no idea what your experience level is. You ask us to send people to you, however you don't tell us what type of products you make. When I go to etsy and look up you shop the only thing that comes up is Rylee Rogers profile and you just joined Etsy March 30 2014. You have no products posted. Build a presence on this forum, get some critiques , post some products for sale on etsy. I think you have a ways to go before you start asking for customers and for referrals. By the way your shop name is misspelled in your post it should be R2leatherworks.

Bluesman, that turned out pretty nice. You definitely put the effort into it and it shows.

Tandy has on sale for April camo leather it is three oz you can always glue to 2-3 or 3-4 oz veg tan.

Ourjud, I went to his site and looked at the full description of the wallet ad construction. THe description expalins pretty clearly. Here is an excerpt: The Double snap wallet vertical bifold is a leather wallet handcrafted by Atelier Pall in a compact minimal design that that doesn't bulge out of your pocket. It is carefully hand stitched from one layer of premium leather and one exterior layer of thinned Italian oiled pull up leather, containing no adhesives or synthetic padding. The edges are hand polished and burnished with beeswax.

If you look up Stoned oil leather or Stoned oil cowhide you willl have better luck. Chrome Excell is the original pull up leather. There is also aniline pull up leather, additional oils and waxes are added when the leather is pulled or shaped around an item the leather the color becomes lighter in areas where it is stretched..

Do you have a problem with Wickett and Craig Leather. I am not sure what your defenition of high end brands is but for me Wickett and Craig would fall into that category.

Ourjud, thanks for posting pics. Your desire to achieve a look that you want is not snobbish, it was the general attitude of your post which you have clarified. I won't be long winded on this one. With the pictures you posted it gives a better idea of what you are trying to achieve. What size thread are you using both hand and in the machine? On the item in picture number 4 you said it is cow if it is veg tan try some sand papar on the edges. You will be able to smooth the edges and remove some of the sqeeze out from the glue. Then try burnishing the edges, if you don't have a proper burnsher for right now you can use a hardwood dowel or plastic rod. Dampen the edges and then rub like heck (don't apply a lot of pressure) you are creating friction to burnish the edge. You will not achieve your ultimate goal with the project you have there, however you can use it as a practice piece to improve the things you don't like about it.

Ourjud, This is going to be a little blunt: I have watched your posts since you first joined this site. You came into this with an attitude that you were going to do your own thing and you could do it as good or better then most without really knowing much if anything about leahter work. All that has happened to you is that you have had a reality check. Welcome to the world of leather working. We are not a bunch of reeses monkey doing what we seen some one else do we are people that have learned skills through trial and error. We all have boxes of (not mistakes) learning opportunities. Most of us in making our first project and getting it the way we wanted spent ten times or more what it would have cost to buy the ready made item. Take a deep breath. Decide if you want to try again. This time pick a basic project. If you are still into wallets. Search this site for wallet pattern or buy a kit from Tandy. It won't be what you want, however the pattern has been drawn for you or the kit has been put toghether for you to give you a starting point. By doing the project using someone elses pattern or kit you will learn the basics. You will also get an idea how the pattern was developed. Use the lessons learned toward preparing yourself to tackle the project you ultimately want to do. Take it in levels of learning If you understand you have to learn the basics before you attempt your ultimate goal you will have less frustration and enjoy it a bit more. I have to say that with comments like " I realize that many enthusiasts aim for that homemade look" and "but so far my efforts look tatty and homemade" (thats because they are) you demonstrate a bit of an attitude that may stand in the way of you learning.. Loose the snobbery. Look at why your projects look tatty and home made pick a few points and refine those then pick another few points and refine those until you have what you are looking for. As has been mentioned post pictures of what you have done let the people here be your mentors. Open your mind to their comments. No one will make fun of them but we will pick them a part with the intent of showing you how to improve what you have done. If you decide to go forward with leatherworking we are here for you.

I agree with Dwight, Weldwood Cantact Cement is the only glue I have used for several years. I ahve tried Barge, all of the Tany glues etc. None of them out shined Weldwood. Before anyone has a fit. Barge is good glue but it is more expensive and has a stronger odor and needs a lot of ventilation. I use the weldwood non flammable it is low VOC so it hasa low odor. Most important thing is to apply to each piece and let dry then put the pieces together. Make sure they are aligned once stuck they are stuck.

My name is Scott and I have been Leather free for 10 minutes. Uhoh I feel the urge, WHeres my sponsor?

Very nice, what tutorial or pattern did you use for it ?

Mike, good to see you on here again. Hope you are doing passable. I always enjoy your quiet and reserved diplomatic style.

True Dubbin has been around since midevil times. It is a mixture of oils waxes etc. The problem is that Dubbin is rubbed onto and absorbed into the leather. It will condition and help make the make the Leather more water resistant. However it also softens the leather. It works well for waterproofing and softening boots. THe problem you might run into is that since you have already put on the resolene you may not be able to get the dubbin to absorb into the leather aswell. Although the can may say wax you will find it does not buff up to the extent that a shoe polish will.

Starting to look good. Definately better then the $480.00 Kevin Cole ones. Now just get some milage on them.

Barge has a fair amount of odor and needs a well ventilatedare to work. The Weldwood is a bout 10.00 a can and will do many many projects. If you get the non flammable type thw odor is low. Important thing is to apply to both sides walk away for about a half hour when it feels dry put the two pieces together and hand press or rollover with a rolling pin. Make sure you have both pieces aligned before pressing together. Once they are stuck they are stuck. Stitching is time consuming if you don't have a machine. Something to think about though if a glued wallet alone will sell and it saves time and looks and works as good as one without stitches why is it hard to find a glued only wallet. I doubt you are the first one to think of it.

If you use Weldwood contact cement and apply it correctl then give it overnight to cure you will destroy the leather trying to get it apart. Not saying it is the bestor only choice but I know Weldwood works.

Here is someone who makes scabbard fittings http://www.todsstuff.co.uk/todsfoundry/scabbard-fittings.htm Also viking-shield.com has a pewter sword tip $33.00

It will be hard to find ready made parts for scabbards. There are so many sizes shapes etc. it would be hard to stock parts. There are some custom makers but the prices are not cheap. Scroll through this link. http://www.myarmoury.com/talk/viewtopic.php?t=6128 You can also google sword scabbard parts or sword chapes. One way to do it is to overlay a different color leather at the tip and the chape area of the scabbard it looks pretty good and takes the place of metl. I will dig up a couple of examples and post them.

Chromexcel will only get a good impression with hot stamping. Do a search for hot stamping. Derilin, plastics etc will not work for hot stamping. Magnesium will ignite at about 500C or 800 F, once it is ignited it will burn at over 3100C. Don't try to put it out with water.

Is the electrical three phase?