BIGGUNDOCTOR

Some product liability insurance would be a good idea. Say you make seat, and the color bleeds onto a nice suit, or it falls apart for whatever reason. Some people call a lawyer first nowadays.

Hmmm, I currently own a 2001 Cummins 3500, 5-Saturns (3 wagons,coupe, and sedan), 72 F250 Highboy, 72 Oldsmobile ambulance, 1967 M-715 Kaiser Jeep,1953 M-37, 74 Duster, and a 1960 Chrysler Windsor 2dr hdt. Grew up driving a 77 Pinto wagon, 81 Cadillac, and a 66 GMC 3/4 ton with the 305 V6. As for sewing In have Singers, and Adlers.

You may be able to use a cleaner on it to remove the oil residue. Others in here may have more experience doing that then me.

No, you cannot Anodize nickel, aluminum and magnesium can be anodized. Anodizing is a process of controlled corrosion on the surface to provide a tough protective layer to protect the part. When done right it is also nonconductive. There are a couple of types of anodizing-decorative, and hard. Decorative is thinner, while hard is just that , a hard layer for rough use. Items like propellers get hard anodized. Anodizing will occur naturally when aluminum, or magnesium parts are exposed to oxygen, it just doesn't form as thick a layer as when commercially done. Nickel is a protective layer used to prevent rusting when used as a plating on steel items. Bumpers used to be nickel plated, then years later chrome was used over top later to give the bumpers more shine. A triple plated part has copper to smooth the surface, nickel to seal the surface, and chrome to provide the high polish shine. Chrome is porous, so that is why the nickel is used under it to seal the steel.

Are they looking to use the bellows, or just for show? A special nail puller could easily be made to get under the heads, and save the originals. I would be very sparing on any "sprucing up", as what makes antiques neat to see is the patina they get from decades of use. Otherwise it will just look like a new one with no history to show.

Same here, ditty bag. Maybe a regional term.

The website comes up as a 404 not found. Etsy link is fine. Facebook link is fine. Getting these on the Kickstarter page is a priority to generate more interest.

I have always used a rawhide mallet, and don't have a problem hitting the tool squarely. By that reasoning shouldn't carpenters use round hammers? I would think the chance of a glancing blow would be greater with a round surface where you have a smaller sweet spot to work with.

Looks more like a gage of some sort.

I do not see the links to your Etsy site, or anything else on you Kickstarter page.

Most people offer an incentive to contribute, for DoubleC she is offering custom keychains. Depending on the campaign it may be a product discount, the product once it is manufactured, etc. The different sites have different rules regarding the campaigns. If I remember right with Kickstarter, if the campaign fails to reach the goal even by a dollar, all of the money is returned to the people who contributed. With Indigogo you can keep what was donated , even if the overall campaign falls short. My friend ran a campaign on Kickstarter that raised $27,000 in the first days it was up for a new product. DoubleC,even though it is up and running, you still need to promote this heavily. Constant posts to social media sites like Facebook, Twitter,etc. You cannot let up if you want this to succeed. Too many enter their info, then just sit back and wait for the results. They end up not reaching their goals.

Even if you are in a remote town there should be someone in the area who can do these. Woodworking is a common hobby. The reason I would pursue locally is that it is just easier to deal with than someone across the country. Unless you have a very clear blueprint there is going to be some interpretation of the design. If you can talk with the person face to face it is much easier. Who knows, you may even make a new friend. A highschool woodshop could even do these. For me 30 miles is nothing-I drive 100 miles to work every day.

Don't know if Kick starter was the best choice. Indigogo, or gofundme may have been better choices. Good luck with the campaign.

I would think that you could locate a local woodworker in your town to do these. Shipping can add up. Plus, you could meet face to face to work the details out.

Old shovel, hoe, mop, and other similar handles work good. Since scrap wood is so available it would be a good choice too. When it gets too beat up, just replace it, and toss the old one in the fireplace. As to the pallet jack wheel, I have never seen a front wheel that large of diameter, and never of solid plastic. Most are cast around a steel core. Now if you want to get fancy, cut a strip from a 55 gallon poly drum,heat it up till it is floppy, and roll it up like a rawhide mallet.could even weld it as it is being rolled. 5 gallon buckets would take a lot more due to the thickness. HDPE is a thermoplastic, meaning it is weldable. Heat the surfaces until they get glossy, and touch them together, done.

OK, just watched the video, and all I can say is I'll send my jugs out for recycling. I could have a mallet made in the time it took him to just get his material ready. He mentions it took 1 hour to fit the handle alone. I can turn and drill the head from a chunk of stock in 5 minutes. I will have also used less resources than he did. Now don't get me wrong, I am all for reducing our waste stream, and conserving resources. I live in the desert, and have gotten my MONTHLY water usage down to 300-400 gallons. I compost my kitchen waste, and buy as few (over)packaged items as possible. I also do blacksmithing, so I take scrap metal, and make other items from that. I am retails worst nightmare, I purchase used far more than new. I am also looking to go subterranean with my home someday to make it more comfortable , especially during the summer. Sometimes you just have to pick your battles, and melting milk jugs for mallets is not one I am willing to take up. But, I would like to see some pics of the one you make.

I agree with Nuttish. I can have one turned, and drilled in far less time than it would take to melt a mess of milk jugs. If you have your heart set on recycling plastic, take a holesaw to some 5 gallon buckets, or one 55 gallon poly drum. Cut the discs out, and stack them. Cut out the big diameter first, then go back with the handle size hole saw.

Nice, and clean design.

Welcome! My oldest nephew,and his girl own the Bespoke store in Truckee.

They may be more expensive, but when you want to make a quality product you don't use inferior parts. I am surprised the nickel is tarnishing. It was used for brightwork on cars before chrome was in widespread use. Is it having a reaction to the leather, or leather finish?

When using wood always use the end grain, not the cross. Center, and other punches are tapered. I used one Friday at work to drift a hole out. I wouldn't wax a punch as it will affect finishing the leather later.

Don't use a bench grinder as they are too fast, and can create too much heat if you are inexperienced. The problem may also be in what you are punching on. I prefer end grain wood myself, as the plastic boards and such don't give me a clean cut. The insides show old be a straight edge, no bevel. The outside edge is what gets sharpened. Depending on the hardness, a smooth file will can remove the chipped edges, then use a sharpening stone to smooth, and polish them up. Do not get the angle too steep/thin this will only cause the edges to chip, or dull faster.

Take electrical conduit, or some other pipe/tube with an inside diameter that will work and use it. Just sharpen the edge by beveling the outside to a proper edge, then cut 3/4 of it off. When punching I found that end grain wood works best. Across the grain won't cut as clean, but end grain allows the punch to bury some into the fibers resulting in a clean, and easy cut. At work I use a short 4x4 on end.

Scale it up on the printer like Electrathon mentioned. I once blew up an image that was 2" to 20" for a project. It printed out on multiple sheets, but it worked great for the pattern.

Don't know if I would call that Sheridan. It doesn't look that bad. There are some little things like edges that are not clean, but otherwise not a bad effort. I don't think the dog will offer a bad critique of the carving.