BIGGUNDOCTOR

Interesting you went they way you did. I would have thought the eyes,nose etc would have been the low spots, or do the pics just make it look like they are raised?

Make a tool by drilling a hole in the end of a metal rod.

We used 0000 steel wool on blued firearms. Sandpaper, sand/bead blaster, Naval Jelly, buffing wheel. Take your pick.

I don't see any problem with it at all. If someone wants this type of leather, and someone can supply it, use it. It's called the free market.

Ferg, sometimes it just means they have perfected the wrong way to do it.

Bylinesupplyco,Do you have a picture of a rivet you have set?

Just because someone has been doing something for a long time doesn't automatically mean perfection.

Or use a press like an arbor, or hydraulic shop press.

Aluminum will naturally start to anodize once it is exposed to oxygen. This process can be sped up, and made thicker by having a shop anodize it. Anodizing is also nonconductive, that is why the surface has to be removed before welding. I worked with a lot of aluminum in my shop. It works nice, and with any metal you don't want to breath the dust. Brass also works,is easy to machine, and quite a bit harder than aluminum. Post pics of the finished stamps.

I haven't seen any skeletons, but I have bought a few originals at gun shows. Got them for good prices due to needing the stitching replaced. You might carve one out of a high density Styrofoam to form over.

I asked because a small time smith might want to knock out a few, but not a thousand.

Hey Dwight, I take it that you served in the Corps, so what about doing beaded copies of your ribbons? I agree with Winter bear in that the Chinese beads suck.

Dude, Featherweights are HIGHLY collectible-do not damage it any further than you have! Even as a fixer it might bring a couple of hundred dollars. That is if this isn't just a Troll posting..............

Post this over on Iforgeiron.com , there are some guys there who do nonferrous items. What kind of quantities are you looking for?

You forgot the most important part, quantity. I posted to you other thread some info that may make this project go easier.

Looks pretty basic construction wise. The brass part could be done with brass tubing cut to length. The screw part may already be available, but you will need to do some searching . As to getting these parts made,,,a lot will depend on quantity. If you want 20 it will be best to find a small job shop like I used to run. If you want 100's , or more, a bigger shop with automatics will be better. The shop I work for now could do the screws. If you don't mind saying, what is the application?

I see a lot of gourd work here, but this is a new take on it for me. I like that look.

OK, if it was a large amount the shop I am the tool maker for could knock them out. If there is enough interest, you may want to do a run, and resell them. We go through literally tons of copper a month.

How many do you need?

You can do what I did after almost 40 years there, and bail out of Kalifornia.

Your site is nice, but it is a slow loader-possibly too many graphics? I like that the home, etc tabs are carried over to each page. With FB you need keep your followers occupied. I have a couple of friends who use FB to good advantage. One is a painter, and he will show progress pics, or start a project with a rough sketch then ask "Who is it?" to get the interest started. I have seen him sell a $500 painting that took him 5 hours to do - he is scary talented-in 15 minutes a few times. The comments following usually look like - Done, 18x24 $500. Wow! Beautiful. Great job. SOLD. My other friend makes jewelry. Her method is no business cards, but get them signed upon to her email list, and friend her on FB. When she goes to a show she sends out a mass email, and posts on FB where she is going the day before, and the day of the event with her booth location. She is killing it in sales. She does not send the info too early , say a week before because they will forget about it, but a day before and the day of brings the customers in. Etsy is a crap shoot, some do well, others flounder. I have tried finding some items on Etsy, and maybe it is just me, but I find it to be a difficult site to navigate at times. I would concentrate on your local area first, then look to branching out. For holsters, and sheaths,, I would hit up all of the local gun stores, and gunsmiths in the area to get your name out there, and possibly even carry some of your items. I would not do a consignment, but just sell them the item, and let them deal with it after that. Your main focus has to be branding your items to make them stand out from all of the competition that is out there. Why should they buy your holster instead of a Bianchi, Hunter, or some other custom maker? That is the question. that you need to answer. GOOD LUCK! I always like to see someone step out on their own business wise. Hope it works out for you.

I'll see if I can dig up a drawing. In the mean time let me try to describe it, oh and by the way with this set up you will only get 2/3rds output. So if it is a 3 HP, you can use 2 of it. This was never a problem for my machine tools. You will need a 220v plug (we always use pigtails for a clothes dryer, and a dryer outlet at the wall) a 3 phase motor of the same size or larger, and your equipment. I never had to buy an extra motor as there always seemed to be plenty getting tossed for one reason or another. Each 3 phase motor will have 4 wires - 3 hots, and a ground. Wire all of the grounds together. Take one of the 220 plug lines and wire it to one of the jack motor wires, and wire those 2 to one of the equipment motor wires. Take the other 220 line and wire the same way with the next set of wires as you did the first set. Now take the remaining wire on each of the motors and wire them together. To start my lathe I wrap a cord around the jack motor shaft and give it a pull. As the motor is spinning I push the plug into the outlet which will keep the jack motor running. Now you just turn on the equipment like normal. If the equipment motor is running in reverse, just stop , and spin the jack motor the opposite direction as before. Now a word on motors. The hz need to be compatible with your wiring. Here in the States we can run European 50hz motors on our standard 60hz current, but you cannot run 60hz on 50hz or it will burn up. Here the motor runs a little slower, and cooler which isn't an issue if there is a varispeed control. I ran into this with the winery equipment that I used to rebuild for various wineries in the Napa valley. Not sure what you have in OZ. Also some, not all, but some 3 phase motors are voltage specific IE; 480v only. Luckily most are dual voltage 220/440, and all is needed to change voltage is connecting the proper combination of wires together according to the diagram on the motor. Easy peasy :-)

I must have done really well over the years then, I average $1 or less for bulk purchases. It just depends on what you two work out. I have had complete sets given to me when I was involved with a Scout troop, and teaching the merit badge. It all comes down to what are you willing to pay. To answer your one question, yes, there is usually a discount if you buy the whole shebang. What I would do is just talk with him a bit, and ask him what he is willing to sell them for, then work from there. Always have cash on you too.

I keep meaning to enter my fair. Distance is no excuse, I only live a couple of miles from the fairgrounds...... Good job Electrathon

Good for you! I like vintage industrial machinery. It can easily be retrofitted with a guard for the back, and the tripping mechanism to keep all your fingers. As to 3 phase at home. I have my machine shop equipment from my closed shop in a workshop at my folks old place, and run it fine with an additional 3 phase motor. We call them Jack Motors here. You wire through this motor then to your equipment . Spin the JM by hand then start your machine. This runs my 18 x 54" Monarch lathe, vertical mill, surface grinder, etc... Some use a variable frequency drive so they can also get variable speed. Phase converters are available, if you go this route get a rotary model, not a static. Swap the motor. This is actually something you can do yourself.