Northmount

That's the only way you are going to be able to see what's in the PDF file. And YES, Rocky is great.

Moved your post to leather sewing machines. This is where the machine guys hang out. A longer video would be helpful. You can post it on YouTube and link to it here. Above and below the feed dogs.

Definitely not mold. If you do a search, you'll find this has come up a number of times and has been answered by me and others. Can be very disheartening when it happens. Oxalic acid (as Bruce says) is a good remedy, as long as there isn't a piece of iron/steel buried in leather, possibly from a band knife during a splitting operation. Takes a little longer to show through than when it is on the surface. Pattern was traced on and all the swivel knife work was done when it showed up the next morning. It was in a 1" wide border area, else I may have been able to hide it with some tooling and dye or paint, especially if it was in the back grounding. Search for blue, black gray spots. It's the same process as vinegaroon.

Moved to Leather Sewing Machines

May be due to the knots being thicker than the leather, so can't be hidden in the leather. This table might be of help for you too.

If you get too close to the edge, sometimes the needle slips through the edge. I'd have to practice a lot to avoid that. Another option is to lace the edges with a double loop pattern. It hides the edges really nicely, and I don't have to slick the edges. Even though I have a machine capable of sewing leather now versus years ago, some of my work is still laced, especially when customers see how it looks. You can do even fancier lacing than the double loop. It does take a lot longer to build. And it fits with doing tooling.

Edge paint doesn't add any strength to the edge. Use thicker firmer leather for the outside, and thinner leather on the inside. Then the outside won't have a wrinkling when opening towards flat. If you can use a leather that is more stretchy for the inside, that will help absorb the wrinkles and stretches. I also think that stitching the edges of the flap make it look more finished than not. Helps blend in with stitching on the gussets. Personally, I don't like to see stitched edges transition to none. Doesn't look finished, looks like a short cut to get finished faster with less work.

Mark where you want the beginning and end stitches to be. Plus a couple more holes for the end. At the end start adjusting the stitches to to match the marks, a little closer to each mark as you approach the end. Not one big correction. You can use the reverse lever on many machines to shorten the stitch length a little to gradually line up with your marks.

Glue the liner in place while folded to near the closed position. Then there is not so much to bunch up, the flap wants to close on its own, and when opening all the way, the liner has to stretch some. Results in a permanent curve in the flap. If you use really thin leather for the liner, the life of the purse will be reduced due to accidents and abrasion putting things in and taking them out. I used to use what was called skiver leather that is paper thin. It's okay for wallet liners when you have a hidden pocket for bills. Never used it on purses. Cut the tails several inches long and back stitch using saddle stitch method manually. If you use leather point needles, they shear the thread when back stitching. So nicer, cleaner job finishing the ends off manually.

Fixed

To anywhere in the world? Europe, Australia, South America?

You could provide a link to the FB Marketplace ad so those that might be interested don't have to waste time searching for it. It doesn't really qualify to be in our marketplace, but I will leave it up for a while.

I merged this post back into your existing thread. There is no need to start a new thread with the same question. All it does is cause more clutter on the forum. If you continue to behave like this, you will be put under moderation. All your posts would then require moderator's approval before they can be seen by members.

I moved your post to Leather Sewing Machines. This is where the machine guys hang out.

Are you saying it lifts the presser foot on the way up? Or that it stalls the machine (motor runs but doesn't move the needle bar)? If it lifts the presser foot, you need to increase the spring pressure to keep the leather from lifting the foot. If the motor runs, but needle doesn't move, take a look at this video at about the 2 minute mark. Need to tighten the locking nut. Clarify - leather thickness? Use 135-16 leather point needles for veg tan and thick leathers.

Drag and drop the files to the band below your text in your post before submitting the reply. If your files are too large to post here due to file size restrictions, you need to resize your files to fit. Follow this link for some helps and suggestions. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/15122-how-to-post-pictures-on-lw/?do=findComment&comment=551171 There are lots of Apps, software, and online tools available on the web, or even built into your device to enable you to reduce your file sizes. 800 pixels in the longest dimension is quite adequate. Smart phone screens and many monitors don't display high res files in high resolution. People that live on the fringes of the internet appreciate smaller file sizes and high res photos may take from 10 minutes to hours to download.

Jim Linnell has some different styles available here.

There was another recent post about thin materials and thick thread that made the point, the material has to be thick enough to be able to properly bury the knot. So vice-versa, the thread needs to be thin enough ... It is very hard to adjust the tension with a single thin layer of material, and thread that is more than half the thickness of the material. For test runs, use a stack of material the same as the material and same thickness as you are going to sew. And your thread has to be thin enough to be able to hide the knot.

There are other posts about using planes for skiving if you want to search for them. I'd be interested in the angle of the frog and the angle the blade is sharpened to. I've also seen little planes using a razor blade described in various posts. I've played with these without much success.

Go to your profile and set your notification settings. You can also set notifications for each post you want to follow by going to the top of the page and picking the follow button. Also to the bottom left for this button when you are posting.

Moved your post to Leather Sewing Machines. More likely to get an answer here. Can you provide more information to help solve your problem? Have you checked your needle for damage, is it threaded correctly? Was it working fine then suddenly quit, any noise, did it jam or lock up?

Moved to Leather sewing machines

A reminder to keep the content here clean for some of the youth that may be here. You can post in the adult section.

Moved this topic to sewing leather.

We hope you are here to contribute to the forum, not just selling. You need to take a look at the marketplace rules here https://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/70-announcements/the Prices in US$ are required. Pictures would be a great assist as well. Shipping information and costs? For pictures, resize to 800 pixels in the longest dimension so they fit the size constraints here. No 3rd party hosting.