Northmount

Resize your pictures to 800 pixels in the longest dimension. Then you can fit lots of photos and they don't take hours to download for the members on the fringes of the internet, or use up all their phone data! Many screens don't show high res photos anyhow.

Try the finishes (paint) area of your local hardware store. I've found lacquer (real stuff) in spray cans. You can go to automotive suppliers and find automotive lacquer. Some places will load it into spray cans.

Old post - the people in this thread may not be following it anymore.

Please price each machine separately. Pictures would be a help to prospective buyers. Need priced and photos.

So is it sold? If it is I'll archive this thread.

Moved your post to leather sewing machines. This is where the machine guys hang out. Lots better cahnces of getting help you want here.

Do a test. Use a piece of leather from the hide you are going to use for a project. Wet it well with a sponge, or douse it in water, water ever method you want to use to get it fairly moist but not saturated. You can put it into a bag to case so the moisture content equalizes through the thickness of the leather. Some do this, some don't. Lots of options. Set it out to dry until it begins to return to close to normal colour. It should feel cool to your face, means it still has moisture and surface moisture is still evaporating. Use a couple stamps you intend to use. Stamp a small area and start keeping track of the time. Every 5 minutes, stamp a new area and record the time. Keep doing this until the leather is too dry and not stamping to the depth you want or the burnish you want. Pick the best time that had good depth and burnish. Use that, follow the same time for your practice or real projects until you get more of a feel for it. Watch some YouTube videos by Jim Linnell. He does a lot of instructional classes at https://elktracksstudio.com/ He normally wets his pieces using a sponge. The thicker the leather, the more he will apply. Then talks for a bit while the leather absorbs the moisture and equalizes. He will then do some tooling while explaining how and what. As the leather dries, he will sponge some more water on. There are lots of ways of getting where you want to, to be able to get the depth and burnish you want. Lots of arguments / discussions about what people think is the beat and only way. Search for articles and posts by Bob Park.

A couple older posts that may still be of value and include URLs. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/88694-fellow-canadians-where-do-you-buy-your-leather/#comment-606551 https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/104317-list-of-canadian-suppliers/

Moved your post to Leather Sewing Machines. This is where the machine guys hang out.

Moved your post to Leather Sewing Machines. This is where the machine guys hang out so you are more likely get an answer here. A picture of your machine may help. Reduce the file size so it can fit the restrictions here. 800 pixels in the longest dimension.

Oils like 3-in-1 and other hardware store oils typically contain waxes and other junk that harden and form a varnish on the lubricated surfaces. This has caused many sewing machines to seize up. You can search this forum and find posts about it. Even happens on furnace fan motors that have run for years with no oiling, suddenly seize up a few months after being oiled with 3-in-1 oil. Quaker State is an example of automotive oils with a high wax content. My old Ford would start running rough, getting to the point it would barely run. I had to pour STP gasoline treatment through the carburetor while running at high RPM to loosen up the sticky valve stems and it would run fine for a period of time. One day my Dad, a professional mechanic, asked what oil I was using. Told him and he said to switch oil to another brand as QS had lots of wax and that was causing the problem. Switched to a different brand, lower wax or no wax content and had no further problems. Beware of oils that have high wax content or additives that cause a build up of varnish for all your equipment, sewing machines plus ...

Not true! As a moderator, I check lots of posts and have advised many members the resolution they should post at. It works. This is what happens with some of the small photos you posted when viewed using Windows 11 Pro and Firefox browser.

Most of your pictures are too small to see detail. You should resize your photos to 800 pixels in the longest dimension. That will provide good detail, fill most screens, and be small files so you can still post all these files in one post.

@Mattpa72 What's the info on the tag, need that to be able to find more information. When you post that, somebody may be able to help. Moved your post to "Shoes, Boots, Sandals and Moccassins"

Moved your post to leather sewing machines, you'll get more response here, this is where the machine guys hang out.

You really should start a new request. Tagging onto an old thread doesn't get a lot of attention.

Translated: Good morning, I recently purchased a Durkopp Adler 69 and while studying how it works I came across the adjustment of the pressure of the feet; I know that the larger threaded part is used to adjust the pressure of the feet but, despite my attempts, I can't understand what the small screw at the top (circled in red) is for, so I'll ask you. @GIULIO English is the language for this site. Please comply.

Moved to sewing leather. If you haven't checked out this thread, take a look at it.

So the controller box has a problem - probably the fuse as you noted. If you have a voltmeter you can check to see what sort of voltage is present if you can access the contacts (both sides). If one side is line voltage, that would say to me, fuse is missing.

Moved your post to "wanted" since it's not for sale.

Much easier for my eyes to read. Better contrast!

Suggest you join Leatherworker.net. This help wanted forum requires approval of nearly all posts. And you would have access to post in all forums.

Good memory! I'm sure you are right about different suppliers. When cutting MDF with a circular saw, I've seen sparks fly. I would suppose that it may be from whatever grinders they are using, or some scrap that gets picked up from truck boxes, loader blades, or whatever during handling.

Always ears up like the stamp

I've seen bits of metal embedded in MDF. Fine for stropping since you're not cutting into it, really smooth.