Northmount

@HayleyMcJenno Moved your post to leather sewing machines. Some additional information could help with getting you some answers that are more specific to the machine you are trying to work with. Give us the make and model and a picture or 2 of the feet, side view most important, front view may help too.

You are right, missed it in the title!

Sorry I missed this long ago. I just tried it on some upholstery leather. Had to saw back and forth. Might work a lot better if I put a new sharp blade in it. Also stretched a little, though that might again be due to needing to replace or sharpen the blade.

Time to update with it cleaned up some more and even painted.

With the blade adjusted flat you can split straps too. Can do a couple passes if necessary to get the width you need. Instead of using razor blades, use a wider and thicker blade like from a box cutter. Can even sharpen and strop it. Makes a big difference. Lots of choice of steel types in Olfa cutters. I'll attach a photo of the Chinese one. Would be easy to duplicate and adjust blade angles and roller diameters.

100% agreed!

Here is a thread about a cheap Chinese skiver/paring tool. The photos are gone from some of the links so I guess I need to take a photo of it to add to this post. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/66080-video-possible-schärf-fix-2000-alternative/?tab=comments#comment-468011

@bklnthor Please read the rules for the marketplace and comply. You need to post prices at the very minimum. https://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/70-announcements/

If you are most always sewing slow, the needle positioning doesn't do a lot for you. Does more for production shops sewing at high speeds.

Nice job again Stewart

I cloned this for my own use. Works really well for skiving the edges of veg tan leathers. I also purchased a cheap Chinese made unit that just won't work for me although they have videos showing how easy it works.

Max thread size will be the same on all these. 138. Needle system 135x17 conical point or 135x16 leather point. Max thickness 3/8". If you read closely the parts are interchangeable between these clones and Singer. Adjustments similar on each. If you are intending to sew leather you want a servo motor and a speed reducing pulley set so you can go slow enough. I have a Techsew 2700, basically the same machine, just a little newer clone. Works well, they are good machines. Tom

These links refer you to the same machine under different names. So you can look up specifications and comments under Consew 227R, Seiko CW-8B, etc. it's amazing what information you can find when searching here. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/87827-brother-ls3-c51-050/ https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/46555-brother-ls3-c53b-walking-foot-cylinder/ Tom

Use sand paper. Tom

@Oneeyedfriesian Moved your post to Saddle Identification Tom

Guests can't PM. Provide a contact email or answer/ask questions here. Tom

@Bellandra8 Moved your post to the Marketplace Tom

135x17 are conical point for fabrics. 135x16 is a chisel type point used for leather. It will cut threads in fabrics in instead of sliding through between threads. Other than that, they have the same specification for length, diameter, etc. There are several different types of leather points, diamond, etc. Needles and stitch type.pdf for needle size versus thread size see this chart. Tom

You can't. But I could move it to the marketplace for sale if you haven't already started a new post there. Tom

Their ISP is Cloudflare.com located in the USA. Tom

I found some about a year ago, name included Lemon scent or something like that. Don't remember what store it was in. Tom

Depends on how often you use it, and what you use it on. You can harden it if you want. Black pipe is carbon steel. Remember, the harder you make it, the harder it is to resharpen when needed. A machinist built a post for me that was part of a mechanical accounting machine many years ago, and case hardened it with potassium cyanide. He had made it a little too thick where the slide was supposed to fit over it. Tried to stone it down, but couldn't even touch it. Took it back to the machinist, and he said how am I supposed to do anything with that now? I asked about heating it back up to soften it? He said, yes that would do it. So he fixed it and case hardened it again. Was interesting to see the chemical reaction as he dropped the red hot post into a little pile of potassium cyanide. Really sputters! Don't try this inside or you'll poison yourself. Deadly stuff. Tom

I would look for pipe that has the inside diameter that you want. If you use the pipe you suggested, you will have to remove material from the inside when sharpening, thus any punching you do with it will wedge the leather cutout inside the pipe making it hard to remove and binding up the next hole you punch. Looking at a pipe table I see that 1.5" schedule 30 has an ID of 1.65". Sch 40 has and ID of 1.61". Both are close to the desired size of 1.625" (1-5/8"). Sch 40 is a commonly available pipe, also listed as STD wall. Tom

@Hitopstamper Moved your post to General Saddlery Discussion. Tom

Check out panavise parts and adapters. Tom