Northmount

So what changed, just your thread type? What else happened at the start of this problem? Tom

Always? Or when did it start? Tom

Some photos of the sewing might help us see what is happening. Also thread size, needle size. Are you using leather point needles? They will cut the threads you back stitch over. Tom

Pant sizes are all over the place. Some stretched, some have shrunk, so you can't go by pant size. If you research this more on this site, you will find all kinds of stories about mistakes and lessons learned about using pant sizes. Also depends on where they wear the pants, under or over their dunlap tire! So for Etsy or other places, you would likely be better off making standard sizes to stock and sell. If custom making, you need to set up a measuring strap as other threads have suggested, so you get a real measure you can more likely trust, as long as they are honest in measuring and recording the number. Tom

I believe that should be cm rather than mm. For inches, men's may be 3/4" to 1". For women's and children's, 5/8" to 3/4". Tom

Since this has strayed so far off the topic of suppliers, I have locked this thread. If you wish to carry on the discussion about COVID-19, you might go to "All About Us and Off Topic". It would be nice to keep discussions to the topics the forum is about so it is more valuable to people searching that forum for related information. Tom

@LionCrownLeather Moved your post to fabrication, sewing leather. Posts in help wanted require moderator approval for all posts. Typically used like the classified help wanted (employment) ads in the newspaper. Tom

138 Tom

@Deuce Moved your post to Saddle Identification, Restoration & Repair More saddle makers here. Tom

@roguewolf IP address indicates he could be near Leesville, South Carolina, 29070 Looks like he doesn't check in very often, last was Sep 1. Tom

As stated by the OP, he is in It is in Easley South Carolina. See the first post in the thread. Tom

@chainftw merged your posts Tom

You need to resize your photos to fit the space allocations here. See this link for some helps. Tom

@Elloco You need to reduce the file sizes. See this thread for various methods and helps to be able to do that. Tom

A little information from a reddit post about chrome tanned leathers and chromium salts possibly causing corrosion. Copied the text below in case the post disappears or is otherwise inaccessible. Use at your own risk as there is no chemical information to back up the statement, but was made in good faith by the OP based on his research and conversations with a person that should know. Tom https://www.reddit.com/r/Leathercraft/comments/4y005l/solved_can_chrome_tanned_leathers_be_used_for/ Posted byu/B_Geisler Old Testament Mod 4 years ago [SOLVED] Can chrome tanned leathers be used for knife rolls/ sheaths, holsters, etc.? OR Are residual chromium salts/ alum/ iron salts in tanned leather corrosive, and if so, to what metals and to what degree? Tips & Tricks Can chrome tanned leathers be used for knife rolls/ sheaths, holsters, etc.? OR Are residual chromium salts/ alum/ iron salts in tanned leather corrosive, and if so, to what metals and to what degree? This question gets asked here with considerable frequency, especially when it comes to making items that will come in direct contact with metals-- sheaths, knife rolls, holsters, &etc. Barrels and blades, folks. Conventional wisdom says that we don't make these items from chrome tanned leather, supposedly due to the corrosive nature of residual chromium salts in the leather. I'm guilty of this one. I've said it, I've heard old timers say it, and you can't swing a cat without hitting an internet 'expert' that will agree. Chrome tanned leather is bad for barrels and blades. Right? I've asked chemists, leatherworkers, wholesalers, and retailers and the most common answer by far is "Chrome tan is supposed to be bad for barrels and blades, but I've never SEEN it." I've researched this topic extensively and, until now, have yet to find a definitive answer on the topic. I made a few calls and ended up on the phone with Tim Howes. Tim has worked in the leather industry for decades and has, at one time or another, worked for about every major tannery in the business. Tim currently works a technical sales consultant for Tannin Corp, a manufacturer and supplier of oils, waxes, fillers, slip agents and syntans for leather tanning, processing and finishing applications-- these are the guys that sell tanning liquors to essentially everyone in the business and Tim's the one answering the technical questions that make that possible. Per my conversation with Tim, there's a short answer and a long answer to the question. The short answer according to Tim, is no. Chrome tanned leathers from any of the big-name tanneries use such advanced tanning processes that the risk of corrosion or blueing from residual chromium salts is essentially none. The long answer is, no. The reason that so much gear was originally made with veg tan leather was due to animals (especially horses) and humans experiencing adverse skin reactions to the chromium salts-- and not a corrosion issue at all. While the salts ARE corrosive, they don't appear in high enough concentrations in tanned leather to pose any risk except possibly as a skin irritant. He said that he couldn't recall having corrosion issues arise with ferrous metals, brass, nickel plates, etc. and that copper is going to corrode anyway. After a thorough discussion with him about modern tanning processes, it became clear pretty quickly that the likelihood of residual chromium being an issue is very, very low. That said, he did caution that the same doesn't go for leathers tanned in non-commercial settings and tannages from less developed countries that don't follow modern tanning processes. The reason for this is that "you just don't know what these guys are doing, there's some, uh, pretty funky stuff out there. I mean chemically its all backwards, but it works somehow." Any corrosion risk comes from storing the gun/knife/etc. in leather-- the leather absorbs moisture from the surrounding air and creates a damp environment. Damp environments and metals don't mix. That's it. TLDR; For practical purposes, as long as you're buying your leather from a reputable tannery, feel free to make knife rolls/sheaths/holsters from whatever tickles your fancy-- chrome tan, veg tan, oiltan, etc. are all safe for use. EDIT: We're talking about this in the context of typical leather applications from reputable tanneries.

Right on! Tom

need to back stitch over the finish end to lock it. You have already stitched over the start end so it is good to go. Tom

See these links for several comments. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/38710-can-i-use-resolene-or-tan-kote-on-leather-jacket/?tab=comments#comment-240467 https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/57765-dyeing-a-light-brown-jacket-dark-brown/?tab=comments#comment-372914 Tom

I would use a scratch awl instead of a groover to mark out the cut lines. I think the groover gives too wide a line and lets you wobble back and forth a bit within the groove. Then cut with a very sharp knife. Don't attempt to cut all the way through in one pass. The more you try to cut through in one pass, the harder it is to keep a straight line. Use a stainless steel ruler with some cork on the back as a guide. I see from your IP address you are in Okotoks. Not too far south of me! Tom

Also don't lift the foot too high or it will release your top tension. Tom

@MusicCityJen Moved your post to Saddle Identification ... Tom

Just tried this link and it tells me "The administrator has blocked your IP from accessing this website". I assume that he has blocked IP addresses outside of the USA. Tom

@PhillyJay moved your post to leather sewing machines. Tom

Let's stay on topic here. It was about anthrax, not COVID-19. A few posts hidden that were straying well off topic. Tom

@Loquai Moved your post to leather sewing machines. Might get more / faster response here. You should also take a look at this thread. Tom