Northmount

Home domestic machines are not suitable for most leather sewing. They can do okay on a couple layers of thin soft leather. The material being stitched is advanced by the feed dogs under the material. The presser foot holds the material down so the feed dogs can dig in and advance the material. The tighter the presser foot spring is turned down, the more friction there is impeding the material from advancing. You need a walking foot machine for bags and up. (Not a domestic walking foot, they are not the same thing.) Look in the forum for leather sewing machines. Lots of info there about what you need. Check out and study this post Tom

He hasn't been back here to answer any questions since Sep 27. I'm going to lock this post and move it to Old/Sold. Tom

I also have a TS 2700. My experience with the servo is much the same as Wizcrafts. Also replaced with a FS-550 and speed reducer. Good machine, no complaints. Also use 138 thread, and sometimes 207 on the top. Takes some time to adjust tension when you keep swapping thread sizes for different projects. Tom

@McLestergl hasn't been around since Dec 3 last year. I locked and moved this post to old/sold. Tom

Editing your post is only available for a short time, maybe a couple hours. Tom

@twotrees Would be helpful to post a link to the ad. https://www.kijiji.ca/v-other-business-industrial/oshawa-durham-region/pfaff-335/1472984809 Tom

@Aurita Have you read and studied this post? If not, I recommend you do so. I'm moving this thread to leather sewing machines. Tom

It's a good idea to put your location in your profile. Tom

@Lowball72 Moved your post to Saddle and Tack Accessory Items. I think you may get more response from this forum since you are dealing with Tack. Tom

have you read this thread? One sewing machine may not do what you want. Depends on how thin you small leather projects are and what thread sizes you want. Upholstery type machine will do lighter weight materials, but for saddle skirting, you need something much heavier. Tom

Seems like the strap under the arm pit would be rather irritating after wearing it for an hour or so. Maybe it should be lower? But that would require a substantial redesign to be able to do that. I have no experience with this, just know what it would do to me! You work looks pretty good. Keep it up! Tom

@Frodo Fixed the title and cleaned up your post for you. Tom

A really great piece of work again! Tom

Oxalic acid is not as likely to damage the finish. But you should test it on a sample first to verify. Tom

@MikeF I moved your post to Leather Sewing Machines. You'll be more likely to get help and comments here. Tom

You might like to post about this in the "Leather Sewing Machine" section of the forum. You'll get more comments there. And welcome to the forum youngster. Tom

You can also try using oxalic acid, also available as Bar Keeps Friend. A teaspoon to a pint of water. @Glassjaw003 It is a good idea for you to put your location in your profile to get help local to your area of the world. I see from your IP address you are located near Arlington TX Tom

According to his/her IP address, is located in Seattle, WA, USA @Simplejack1985 It is a good idea to put you location in your profile. Then you will more likely get responses that are useful for you. Note that this is a worldwide forum. Tom

Two ways to go after this. One is to go to the forum you posted in and scroll through the posts. I see that you posted in "Leather Sewing Machines" yesterday. So if you start at the home page, you can scroll through it to find that forum, select it, and again, scroll through the posts there. Another quick method is to go to your profile, top right-hand corner of the page, select your username and pick profile. Under it you will find a running list called "Your Activity". On this list, you can select the posts you have made. You can also pick your profile from your username/description on the left of any completed post by selecting the username. Tom

After a long Google search, I don't see any LRW, but do see in the Schmetz brochure a type LR, also called RTW. I wonder if someone combined the types to LRW? Schmetz leather-needles.pdf Groz-Beckert Needle Chart.pdf @youdesiremenow I am moving this post to Leather Sewing Machines where the experts are! Tom

Agreed, a gentle bend should not be a big problem. I found the couple photos I was looking for that demonstrate what happens with more aggressive wet molding. This one is obviously tooled before wet molding. The example below was tooled (or touched up) after wet molding. Both these saddles were commercially made and being sold in a tack shop. This is of course much more extreme than a gentle curve as the leather had to be stretched and pulled in order to fit the swells on the tree. Tom

Carving and stamping will go mushy and lose definition if wet molded after carving. I have some photos of saddle work that illustrates the problem. Will have to go hunting for them. To stamp after wet molding, you need a matching solid shaped piece inside while stamping. Tom

I assume it is on the typical adjustable K-leg stand. Remove the machine and motor from the stand. take the bolts out of the legs and raise the table to the height you want it at, replace and tighten the bolts. Reassemble the machine and motor to the table. It is too heavy to raise the table when fully assembled. You'll either hurt yourself or the machine. Neither area good idea. In the computer and control system industry, they have special desks built that have powered lift/lower mechanisms. They would be handy for different working heights. Need to be able to support the heavy machinery! Tom

Need to see a picture of the project in order to be able to make recommendations our how to fix your particular project. Dry leather, especially thick leather will crack when bent sharply. Three things you can do to help prevent cracking are to make sure you replace lost oils in the leather, make grooves in the back of the leather to reduce its thickness at the fold line, and moisten the leather along the fold before you bend it. Let it dry in the final shape it will normally be in. Tom

From Wikipedia " Turpentine (also called spirit of turpentine, oil of turpentine, wood turpentine and colloquially turps) is a fluid obtained by the distillation of resin from live trees, mainly pines. It is mainly used as a solvent and as a source of materials for organic synthesis. " Doesn't seem to keep the pine beetle away from pines! There is a huge infestation in British Columbia and Alberta. And with how little actually gets absorbed by the leather, all there would be is a slight smell that some people would find attractive. Maybe insects and rodents would also be attracted! I would guess that it was used because it acts as a solvent and makes it easier to combine with beeswax and NFO. It might be considered by some to be a little more natural than using varsol, or other petroleum based solvents. But I wouldn't use it on leather. Of course I know absolutely everything about leather! Tom