Tree Reaper

A center finder locates the center of the burnisher in order to drill the hole for the shaft. http://www.amazon.com/Robert-Larson-800-2875-Plastic-Center/dp/B000CD1T0A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1384129994&sr=8-1&keywords=center+finder

Even if it is different .7mm is next to nothing and you would be dividing that by 2 so over all it's only .35mm on each side. I would guess that these are all the same size and are made in the same China factory and given two different sizes, one metric and one imperial for the same item.

Hi Needles; I used a center finder, drilled the hole with a drill press and then trued it up on the outside with a jig and sand paper. The only real problem is the burnishers are wood and they are warped so that's where the work comes in on something like that. Kevin.

I'm glad that does what you wanted it to. It's always nice when things work out.

Ohio Travel Bag has that length and longer.

Are you measuring or looking at the item description? They should be the same. If it happens they are different, the difference is minimal.

How long?

They should be the same size just two different methods for sizing.

You can buy it. http://www.rodenleather.com/Ovation-series/Distressed/Distressed.html

Fully adjustable and looks great, nice work.

I think it's absolutely necessary to hone any tool used for cutting or skiving leather for the best results.

The problem with any kind of sharpening is the burr that's created and the blade must be removed in order to hone the back side as well as the front. I wouldn't trust any grinding apparatus on a blade that must be sharp. Grinding is for axes and cold chisels. I would be looking at a way to remove the blade/blades and get them to someone that knows how to sharpen and not just somebody in the sharpening business.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/watch-hole-Punching-Plier-rectangle-Leather-Strap-Belt-Notching-Plier-tool-Kit-/281140866850?pt=Pliers&hash=item41754d2f22

Hi Matt; I don't have skiving machine but I am familiar with planer blades and usually all they require is honing. The only time they would possibly require grinding is if they got nicked. If you don't get a response I would suggest you contact the manufacturer.

You could make your own liner with styrofoam.

It could be an oil finish and you could use a Q Tip in the groove with a stripping agent to try and remove it but it wouldn't be difficult to make a new one with the single groove you need and leave it unfinished. Any type of wood will work, hard or soft wood. You can also buy a plastic burnisher that goes on a mandrel if you can't make a wooden burnisher.

The only thing I'll do to the edge prior to creasing is sand any unevenness along the edge.

Your crease will only be as good as your edge because that's your guide. Keeping the angle of the creaser the same all the way around the entire project is also important. The jumpy spots can be decreased with a sharp creaser and smoothed over with a modeling spoon. Leather casing is also important.

Very nice, I hope he gets to use it more than once.

You can call their 800 number or list a couple that you are interested in and I'll look up the price.

Liability is huge, tell him to buy an approved harness and you can make accessories for it.

http://www.golden-wheel.cn/uploadFiles/747%E7%B3%BB%E5%88%97/%E8%AF%B4%E6%98%8E%E4%B9%A6/CS-747%E4%B8%AD%E8%8B%B1%E6%96%87%E8%AF%B4%E6%98%8E%E4%B9%A6.pdf I'd guess that too much pressure or clearance could be a problem or a worn part causing the damage requires dressing or replacing.

What side of the leather are the lines on?

Can we see a picture of it?

For coasters I use a three fence method where the coaster rides on all three fences, the last stamp remains in place when stamping the next. The coaster gets turned and stamping progresses. As Dwight said, start in the middle for alignment. The problem here is the strap will prevent turning the work so I would trace the design over a thin piece of wood, downsize that with a compass, cut it out, clamp it over the work and follow that with the stamps using the template as your fence. A solid fence is critical when stamping letters on a curve or straight. The other problem you can run into is having the same two letters together so you can't leave the last stamp in place because you need it for the next one, you can either use another similar size stamp to get the placement and then remove the stamp from it's placement and use it or you can buy a second set of stamps. By butting each stamp up against the next one it keeps them aligned as long as you get the first one straight. https://www.google.ca/search?q=buckaroo+spur+straps&client=firefox-a&hs=v8p&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=WLZvUpWsOqqQyQH6-YC4Cg&ved=0CCsQsAQ&biw=884&bih=482&dpr=0.9 Kevin.