Tree Reaper

Thanks, I'm using 5 oz.

It doesn't get stuck on the wing nut because there's a leather strap over it when it's being used.

Thanks Bill. I added some suede to the inside to dress them up a bit.

Well done, the top edge could use a little burnishing but it looks great.

You have to be specific as to what you are using.

I've started a run of belt pouches.

This is what I clamp in my workmate and when I'm done stitching it gets put away, out of the way.

I use neatsfoot oil a day prior to applying dye. Is the leather new? Old stock will dry out.

Can you replace the pocket, use the existing holes and hand stitch?

It looks good, the hole isn't that noticeable in the picture. Will that concho scratch your Blackberry?

You can try this company, http://www.htc-reproductions.co.uk/RepairHardware.htm I don't see anything in brass but it might be worth contacting them. International Ohio orders aren't a problem if you meet their minimum buying restrictions.

Ohio has them http://www.ohiotrave...tml#/123/zoomed P2510 bottom of page

You'll want a gouge for that. The pro stitching groover will do both or you can buy separate tools, one for grooving and one for gouging.

That is well done judging by the pictures, very realistic. Good job!

You could use lace as well, all you need is a loop to go around the button.

Here's a link that might help http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=42485&hl=paper#entry264244

Slot in the strap, leather or wood button.

I just fold a piece of paper in half, draw the design on the paper, unfold the paper and trace it onto your leather.

When raw hides are dried, the nails are placed very close together to prevent a rough edge like that. The greater the distance between the nails the more ragged the edge will be. You can try wetting the leather, tacking it out on a board and leave your nail spacing about 1 1/2 to 2 inches and allowing it to dry over night. Try it on a small piece to see if you get the results you're looking for. Once the leather is tacked down raise it on the nails to allow the air to get between the board and the leather.

The problem I had with any type of press is having the leather come back up with the awl because there isn't a foot or restraint to hold it down.

When making bottle holders I pre punched the bottom of the holder on the bench and then I only had one layer to go through on assembly. A sharp awl is a must.

Tool rolls comes to mind.

The padded sling I bought years ago is most likely foam sandwiched between the leather and a suede backing.

I use an edge beveler for that not the french edge skiving tool, then finish it off on a drum sander.

I use a border tool and go over it with a swivel knife when I want it deeper.