whiteeugene

Great job love the color

I love what you did with the inside is that just fabric?

Looks nice are those spots or rivits?

Nice Idea I need to do one for a note.

Was the leather veg-tanned? How did you apply the Hi-Lite was the leather damp or dry I have better luck with water based stain if its a little damp, make sure the finish is water based if you are going to rub it on. If you’re going to spray it on do what immiketoo suggested let it dry then buff. If I’m going to use a Hi-liter I normally use a dye first then put the hi-liter on this gives the piece a contrasting look between light and dark. If I want to bring out the grain of the leather and add some contrast I apply something like Super-Shene first then I hi-lite to enhance the tooling rubbing it into the tooling and cuts then wipe it off, the Super-Shene or what ever sealer you used will protect the high areas from taking the die. I think the key is to wipe not rub you want to remove the hi-liter from the top but leave it in the tooled and cut areas. From Tandy’s site Eco-Flo Hi-Lite is water based, low V.O.C., light stain for use on natural veg-tanned tooling leather that will bring out and enhance cuts and impressions. Also you may want to check out the Dyes, Antiques, Stains, Glues, Waxes, Finishes and Conditioners forum. Doug

Does it have any marking on it.

That was very thoughtful and a great example of what people should do, an act of any kind is a 100 times better than a conversation about what could be done or what should have been done. Doug

Looks good how did you have do it.

Nice job I bet he likes them.

Looks nice got a sample on leather to share? Doug

Looks great what weight leather do you use on your slings? Doug

A lot of great stuff in this thread thanks everyone for sharing. Doug

Great job and great cause I know whoever gets it will appreciate it .

Thanks Willem the resons I dont like stanless is the cryo process and the long soak times Im not sure how cost effective it is when you have to run your oven for 3 minits and then again for 2 hours to draw it out. If I was making it for a customer I could pass that cost along to them but for myself I think 01, 1095 or D2 will work just fine it’s easy to work with and inexpensive.

I suppose for the same reason we carve our own leather.

Great post I was looking at buying a new one this may work just as good and I can get enough material for several I just ordered 1 foot of each type will see witch one works best. Now if I could get a tool that applied the correct amount of force and automatically kept the spacing correct. Thanks guys Doug

Thanks TwinOaks I new I read something about carbon steels and taned leather but was not sure what is was, I use some stainles steel in knife making but I like the petina you get from plain old high carbon steel and I think you get a better edge from it. Thanks Doug

I’m also interested in what metal works for leather cutting tools ( head/round knives) I make custom knives mostly with high carbon tool steel 1095 01 or d2. I had read somewhere that some steels can darken the leather. Any recommendations would be helpful. I have all the tools to grind mill and harden most tool steel so for me it would be economical to make my own. Thanks Doug

do you use edge dresing next or just dye it?

Looks good what did you use on the edges?

Vikefan nive job on the belt. Country Trash I share my pictures from facebook using this method. https://www.facebook.com/help/124590517619792/

Great looking work I love the dragon your art ?

Take a look at the angle of the grind on both tools it could be the Weaver doesn’t have the correct taper also check the inside to make sure it was de-burred, also check to see if you removed all the plastic goop they put on it before it ships.