Cumberland Highpower

I don't mind the smell of leather either. I've bought a fair amount of leather from Weaver over the years as well. Not all leather smells the same. I most prefer the floral smell of Herman Oak. Have enough leather and goods in my shop that you can smell it in the yard if the roll up door is up. I no longer buy the imported double shoulders that are finished/struck through from Weaver's though. The chemical smell is pretty bad on these and being around it makes me dizzy and my face go numb........

I've come across at least 2-3 scams here. I just ask for detailed photos and technical points that a scammer can't figure out how to answer. Now I have to confess, there was one WTB ad I placed and received a reply to here last year. I thought for sure he was a scammer (and even told him so) and turned out to be quite a helpful and accommodating gentleman. I bought an Adler 205 off of him based solely on photos and descriptions. Yes, it was one of those "I am helping someone else sell this" lines. In the end, I wired him the money and he broke it down and freighted it to me. It turned out to be a good machine that didn't have many hrs worth of wear on it. Would I do it again? Probably. But carefully. I placed a WTB ad today! lol.

That's a good question......<Mainly because I myself watched a couple youtube videos on it. It's advertised powering a Juki 441 clone at low speeds so can't be all that bad? I'm thinking to fit up a Seiko LSC-8 with a servo and needle positioner. I don't think those 45+hp quoted could be a bad thing? Everyone could use that much at one time or another? lol Actually I think it may be a bit more than needed, but I would like to run that Seiko a bit slower with a positioner. As it sits I have a Yoder Motor on it.....It sucks down allot of air and not something I want to keep as is.

Looking for a Ferdco 900B or a Seiko CH8B/Consew 7565r. (Older 756r) Let me know what you have, price and location. I can only reply to existing members at the time of my Posting. If you just signed up to reply to my post, you're probably a scammer? Thanks!

I think the best price I've seen on a new setup 2/table and motor here in the States is around $6400....So you're at least not being overcharged based on locality?

Thanks for sharing your experience. Doesn't sound too promising... I've gotten used to the factory motor/drive over the years, I was just looking to shed the excessive clatter. That I never got too used to

I've been wondering...Has anyone had success with a servo type motor on a Union Lockstitch? I run a couple in 80's factory "trim" with heavy tables, standard AC motor/dual belts, etc. They work just fine but I'm growing tired of the extra clatter they generate. I'd like to try a servo type to reduce the noise/vibration on one as a "test" Do any servo's out there fit the power requirement? I have very little experience with servos....So far just some light cheap Chinese models. Thinking maybe an Efka DC1550?

thanks for the input gents. Yes one of the guides was similar in design to Burkhardt's photo. The other I saw was of the same "Union Lockstitch" style, but longer and had a pointed tip rather than a roller for the guide end.

Probably a dumb question.... I was in an Amish shop yesterday and I noticed he had an older Adler 205 with a fairly long roller guide similar to one that you'd find on a Union Lockstitch. Quality looked pretty good, appeared to fully machined. I'd guess made in the USA from the quality. When I asked him, he showed me 2 other machines sporting the same guide, and one had a fine point rather than a roller....He had no idea who made them, he bought pretty much everything used. These guides attached to the cylinder arm directly. Who makes these guides?? I woudn't mind having one or 2.

I hear the Landis Sales Amishman in Illinois has some used parts for those. They're long obsolete and nobody makes parts new. I have a couple I use for something specific, one I modified into a "high lift" machine. A few parts are easy to find at he hardware store surprisingly, screws, bolts/joint bearing/rod ends. I made a couple hooks myself when one of my originals broke. (easy to cut from strap steel if you have a little fabrication experience). I also have a couple parts machines that I've cannibalized..."Maybe" I have something I can share still, depending on what you need. They're pretty tough, overbuilt old machines and rarely wear out to the point of being unusable.

I've never owned one of the strap cutters, so I guess I'm not much help.... I did have an embosser that they made. I just bought it on a whim when I came across it. I'd have to say I found it lacking in build quality, engineering and fit/finish. Really reminded me of something I would have made on a weekend with a saw, grinder and welder. (Not to mention a can of krylon). It did work though. As far as a strap cutter, they aren't rocket science and I believe Weaver Leather makes one in a similar fashion.

If someone had one, would you pay freight? I'm guessing if someone east of the Mississippi had one, it would be at bare minimum $500 freight.....

This scam rotates across this board about once a month. Every time I post a WTB on the board I get one or 2. It's always "I know a guy who has one for sale and here is his address." I always google the contact info provided up front, in the case of this scammer I found the same email and MO on a few other forums including one for car parts trading. Sometimes I ask a few technical questions and ask for some specifics on the machine only an actual possessor would be able to answer. Last WTB I had on here I bought an Adler 205 off a guy in Seattle, and I made him send a dozen pictures of odd parts of the machine just for confirmation.

I've never owned a Comoga as yet. Probably wouldn't mind it. The UA's I have are about all I ever need and they're pretty reasonable to buy around here. The UA's have a blower also but it's more of a vacuum as it's behind the trash box, and ends in a cloth filter bag. Sometimes with that splitter I find it a little annoying for the vacuum to be lacking function. Chips sometimes dont fall down or clear the lower roller all the way. Never heard of an Alekbo. I think you Ozzies get some better machines than we do here in the States..

Well, on that UA I'm a little tired of cleaning up buckets of scraps off the floor. It came to me a few years ago missing the box and would be nice to complete it. Why wouldn't a guy want to replace what's missing? Someone probably has a UA in a scrap pile somewhere.... I have the feeling the vacuum system would work a little better with a proper fitting box...Maybe it's just a silly thought that popped in my head

Looking for a trash box for a Fortuna UA Band Splitter.

Does anyone happen to have a couple slot punches in 30x4 for a Galli/Bibo cartridge? Broke one and don't have a spare on hand.

I guess I should have just said "I don't know why an Engineer with any real world experience in actually using servo motor of this type, would draw up (as an OEM) a large drive pulley on a servo or clutch motor?" rather than just posting it as a rhetorical, slightly sarcastic question.

You don't need a truck or SUV, just be a little creative. 20 Years ago when I bought my first "real" stitcher, I drove all the way to Hialiah, FL and put a Randall Stitcher w/table and Clutch motor along with 3 boxes of goodies in the hatch of my VW Golf. A month ago I sold some Mexican guys a Randall Embosser. They drove from out of state (California maybe?) and put it in the trunk of a Chevy Impala. Stand and all. Sounds like Oak Grove leather has a deal going that might be a little better though?

Is there any particular reason why every servo and clutch motor made comes with such a large pulley on the motor shaft? Generally, the first thing I do is toss the original pulley and replace it with a smaller diameter one just like Constabulary does.

There's one on ebay. I think labeled as a class 4 for $1600

I use a box cutter and/or a square knife most of the time. But then most anything with a curve I cut with a die.

Thanks Bob. I'm guessing the Landis 3 and 16 use the same?

Anyone have a chart for the Landis 16 hook and awl sizes? I am looking to match 277 or 4 cord. Have been cutting down UL needles but would like to actually order some already proper size and I don't have a manual or size chart Thanks!

Tons of stuff you can use. Some rifle slings come with a non slip rubber finish. cotton webbing is often woven from cotton with latex woven in. Mouse Pad Neoprene mentioned above is often used and bound around the edges. Sometimes a granulated rubber sheet is used. (backed up with a knit cloth). That's harder to find, I used to order mine from Finland.