Cumberland Highpower

How do you have them priced? Rings and Duncans.

Hello Wiz, It's only a new head I picked up. I placed in on one of the standard motor tables to test out. Same old twin belts/standard motor w/pulleys under the table. (I haven't gotten as far as the new servo motors yet) The gearing sound is in the machine head no doubt, sounds near the shuttle. I thought there might be an adjustment to raise the shuttle but I haven't seen it just yet. I'll take a closer look. I've owned UL's since 2009, having bought my first during the recession. Back then allot of shops were dumping machinery pretty cheap. I've run it a fair amount and to date only adjusted 2 points for wear and changed the stitch length. I've never had any issues, although I hear many complain about the UL's......I get the feeling that it's the heavily worn machines that are the problem machines?

I picked up a Union Lock head today that looks to be in really great shape, nice and tight. I believe it was not used much since rebuilt from the looks of it. (None of the factory black paint is worn off of the shuttle/bobbin housing). Now, it does work of course, I swapped it with another machine head to test it out. It seems to work well, just needing some wax cleaned out. But...I am a little perplexed at the noise it makes. All the UL machines I've seen and the 2 I have here make a light gear gnashing sound when running, but this head makes extremely loud gearing sounds. Especially near the shuttle. Everything looks rock solid and tight, maybe too tight...But is excessively noisy. I almost feel like the gearing is too tight. Is there an adjustment I don't see that allows the shuttle to move up and down? Seems like when I run it by hand by the flywheel I feel a little excessive "gnashing" of the gears. Anyone happen to have a service manual for the UL? I've never needed one but maybe I do today

I used to have one just like that but lost it somewhere along the line... Osborne made a very limited number of punches to Government specifications in the past, and those punches used a taper friction fit tube and NOT a screw in type. It looks like yours is of that type from the photo. If you look carefully do they appear to be threaded and screwed in, or pressed in and held by a taper? IF it's a Govt Spec punch, the original owner probably got it for "free" as he probably carried home as contraband, but at $2 you have a GREAT find. When I pointed out that I had this model Osborne punch that didn't take screw in tubes, I was lightly derided here on this forum until an Osborne rep stepped in and noted I had a Govt property punch and detailed how they were different. Now, you might laugh but I lightly sharpened mine on occasion without removing the tubes. I used a brass deburring tool made by Wilson and it can lightly sharpen the inside and outside of your tubes so long as they don't have big chips out of them.

I see you're spooled up with 3 different colors/types of thread, but you never mentioned what you plan to make with your 105?

That's a bad day.... It sounds like your machine just had poor QC. Did you insert the original needle in your machine or did it come installed? It may have been a tight fit from the start. That's poor qc in that case, but it's not hard to fix. You can clean up any burrs in the needle mounting hole. If your needle is rubbing, something is out of adjustment, bent or poorly made. Skipping the hole in the needle bar had nothing to do with your needle breaking or anything else. Your needle was probably under allot of stress because of the misalignment and snapped after a couple stitches. 20 mins looking it over and making some adjustments should cure the problem. At worst you might need to replace an out of spec part.

I don't think you'll find much more than manuals online. The successor was the 205-64 and it has allot in common including the presser feet. I happen to have a 205-64. I believe the 105 uses the 328 needles? Now the shuttles and bobbins for your machine are pretty easy to find and the same as a singer 45. Ebay is full of Chinese replacements. When it comes to presser feet, it's a little tighter market. In today's world, there are not many feet made now for the 105/205-64. In 1965 there were many types available for all kinds of work. You'll have to keep a close eye on this forum's postings and Ebay. Almost none of the attachments listed in the 105 manual above can be found today new, although over the years you made pick a couple odd pieces here and there up at flea markets or online. On my 205-64 (Same feet at yours) I have about 4. One is a Juki 421 foot that I recently bought, milled out a little deeper in the needle slot and trimmed the toes back. Works great but not a bolt on out of the box proposition. I think some feet from a couple of the Chinese Coyboys might be workable. You'd have call Bob Kovar on that. I do know he sells a Chinese Roller "Foot" that fits your machine. The 105-64 is really a great machine although it does have some limitations compared to the newer Unison feed type machines. Back in the day the 105 was a common staple among leatherworkers.

I'm debating to order a sailrite or a Reliable to try out. I'm looking for max low speed torque. Kgg I have surplus brushed 550W servos that came off machines and a Randall VSB "Burnisher" built on one by Randall. I wonder if these are they types you are using? I can get close to zero torque out of any of them. The burnisher works ok, I run it about 500RPM's on 4-6 oz leather items. I don't think i it could work on anything else without stalling. My Galli FCE has a DC motor on it mounted on front for burnishing and it has a great amount of torque and uses the same wheels as the Randall VSB I have. Makes me think those 550w motors aren't really very good? What is the largest machine you run with the 550w servos?

Well, I probably should have kept my interaction with Levi to myself.... I may want to deal with him someday, who knows. still don't know what that part is though?

I understand your point. I would say "cheap" American made mechanics tools would have been along the lines of some Craftsman, Bon-Econ, Stanley, New Brititian, Fleet, etc back in the day. If you go to a flea market and purchase some USA made generic sockets and wrenches, Even without names, you'd find they are as strong or stronger than the best of Chinese tools made today.

I'm not quite sure if that's really a fact? Perhaps in the 1970s....? My wife is from Europe and from the many times I've been across Europe, I find American goods somewhat coveted. Chryslers and Jeeps are fairly desirable and a little on the exotic side. (My father in law owns a Jeep and specifically sought it out). American mechanics tools command good prices iif/when found and are pretty desirable. Ironically the same with firearms. Remingtons and Winchesters are sought after and considered a prize item. (Here I would say they don't know better, as most European firearms are superior in design, materials, fit and finish). Perhaps Northern Ireland is a different tune. One place I haven't been yet but would like to visit.

That's hard to say, I remember the tools, not the prices. I haven't bought Chinese tools since I've been a "Grownup" I think I may have been 17 when I bought the double box-end wrench for my 86 Ford Tempo. (Now that was junk, Canadian/American made mostly I believe). I bought that wrench because at the time it was the only tool that could reach far enough remove the rear strut mounting nuts. Most of the tools I had at that time were from Oddlots. I did buy a set from India at Oddlots I remember. I think they were "Gedore" At the time I thought was a good buy, but they were literally as brittle as glass....Only thing I've seen worse than Chinese made.

Well, if it makes anyone feel better I happen to have one tool made in China that is excellent. A double box end wrench that I bought 20 years ago. It's well forged out of great steel. Of all the junk Chinese tools I've handled or used/broken, how did this piece turn out to be good? I think it was an accident, a fluke. Maybe they were short of scrap Studebakers and melted down a prototype T99, I don't know.....

There is a leather "folding" machine that has small metal fingers that folds the leather over. Usually a skived edge with some glue on it. I don't know if a folder can handle a wire inserted in it though? Perhaps with the right feet? I see really ancient ones from a century or so ago pop up used on occasion. I think you can get new folders. Maybe Galli or Bibo or Bimac makes....Call Dan Naegle.

Interesting you brought that up Whiz. I looked up the "Monster 2 balance wheel" after you pointed it out just to see what it is.. It's a slightly oversized handwheel/flywheel. Looks like it's comparable to many a factory handwheel/flywheel in size..If that's a big flywheel to Sailrite I think most heavy machines would shred it! Maybe it's just a disclaimer like "Only use factory ammunition in your new firearm"?

You're right Shoepatcher. I was able to do business with Connie Naegle! lol

I'm just curious on what that part does. I have a pair of Landis 16's sitting around. I noticed neither of mine don't have this part, it must not have any real function in practical use? Funny you mention Eli, I saw him at an auction this summer. Talked a bit. At the time I thought to maybe giving the tight machine a real good going over and keeping it to sew on. We briefly talked, and he seemed pretty friendly. However, the moment I asked if parts were available he instantly started making a scowling face and turning side to side in an effort to evade any further conversation. Just said "Yeah parts are available" and walked off. Literally, it was a reaction that would have been no different if I had ripped a really rank quantity of gas right under his nose. I was astonished by such a lack of professionalism. My next question would have been along the lines of perhaps doing a restoration on the one, or at least I'd remove the puller assembly and send it back to IL with him to rebuild if he had parts for it. (the only part that seems to have any play in it). I guess I didn't get that far. I'm still thinking it, although now I feel less inclined. I like the look of the 16's but I pretty much get the feeling they've become a dead end, obsolete machine.

What is this part on a Landis 16? The cast iron part with a couple curves cast into it, right above the threading/take up arm door?

I am curious about these new brushless servos. Specifically the Sailrite Workmaster and to a lesser degree the Reliable 6000.... I never really got into servos, other than the 2 that came on things I bought. (the brushed kind). I removed them and installed older clutch motors, mainly as those servos had low to no torque at any lower speed. (I do have a Randall Benchtop/horizontal burnisher that is built on a brushed type servo, but the light items I burnish on it do not really stall it out at slow speeds). Now I see these sailrites, and on some youtube videos I see they are extremely torqueful (Is that a word?) Anyway, I am curious if they'll work directly without a speed reducer on older machines such as a Randall or Landis 16? Anyone use them on an Alder 205 or a Juki 441? Do they have the guts to power a Union Lock at 600 spm? Anyone having experience to share? The thoughts of possibly adding a Needle Positioner is intriguing.... Thinking to order one for a bigger machine, and if it's inadequate to put on a smaller class machine.

I've never tried 3-in-1 on anything mechanical and now you scare me Bob Although. maybe similar, I've bought many a firearm that had been sitting for years after being oiled down with a light "Gun-oil" like Rem-Oil. Often times gummed up so badly to render them inoperable. Really requiring a teardown and deep scrubbing.

Something makes me think the images embossed on there have something to do with it's use? I can't tell what they are from my screen....Ducks? Maybe it's a game carrier of some kind? If you've got the photo, maybe easier to just order one from the source?

Hmm, Maybe I need to oil a machine head up and pack it away for a couple decades in a hot shed and see what happens. That's a bummer about your furnace blower motors seizing up. Only blower motor I've come across seized from dried oil was a NOS 1/20 HP Dayton from the 80's that I bought on Ebay to make a spare bobbin winder. When I took it out of the box it was stiff to the point you'd think the factory lubed it with epoxy. The furnace in my house was installed in 1972. I oil it yearly with the same can I use in the shop. It needs to be replaced due to inefficiency and just being flat out old, but bearings are smooth as glass.

Man that's pretty harsh... Every machine I own, including some over a century old are regularly well oiled with either 0w-20 or good old fashioned 30w. I'm including a variety of Adlers, Singers, Union Locks, Randall/Campbells in that mix. None have ever seized up...Overall I'd say it's superior lubricant to a light machine oil. Ah, well I guess I do use one non auto lube on occasion. Sometimes I use Ballistol on the shuttles. It seems to lube nicely and absorbs well into leather/thread if I get carried away or careless.

Ok, a side question, not related to bobbins: My 67 seems to have a loose cog wheel on the top shaft. It seems to be just a touch loose. I believe a setscrew needs to be tightened up. Looking it over, it appears the screw must be under the belt and not to the side like on the 167. What is the best way to tighten this up? Can I reach up from the bottom? Is it a slotted screw or hex? (If hex what size?). Can I just slip the belt off the lower cog and access it through the machine from the bottom? This 67 is in excellent shape, 98%. I don't know it's age though, could be from late 60's. (Chandler import in Chandler table w/Belgian made motor). The belt appears slightly different than the timing belts I see online. Must be an older type, as it's made from what appears to be black polyester cords with steel cleats crimped over them. Belt looks to be in great shape. Given the great shape of the machine, and it's limited use, I'd imagine someone at Adler forgot to tighten a screw a way back when.