Sylvia

I could be wrong but I would think that even compressed wool on the skins would provide a measure of protection for the horse. Consider that even a well fitting, tightly cinched saddle will have some movement. Prolonged rubbing would cause skin ulcers (think blisters) which would invite infection. I would think that we would want to do everything possible to protect such an expensive animal, especially if the horse is a stock or range rider's horse that could potentially save our lives.

I'm afraid I agree with Jimbob. Work with one of the dealers here. They will take good care of you and may even be willing to meet the price of the ebay guy. One thing I wanted to mention. The sewing I had done prior to having my Toro3000 was always on a flatbed industrial or a home flatbed or one that converted from flat to free arm. A cylinder arm machine is a whole different critter and take some time to get used to. First these machines are HUGE and intimidating and have the power to sew through flesh and bone and keep on going. (scary) for that reason I would recommend that if you have never sewn before to get with someone who is willing to spend time with you and allow you to get the feel for one of these machines.

I meant to look this up and link you to it... but I guess I got side-tracked. lol Anyway... look at the pdf in the first post on this thread It will give you a better idea of what I was talking about. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=19995

That reminds me of a Medieval Pike Axe Like this..... http://northstarzone.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/114-2092.jpg Which begs the question, were these cobblers retired warriors that re-purposed their weapons?

I'm pretty sure that's been shared 100 times or more. I think I shared it myself a year or so a go. lol Thanks though! Now I get to book mark it again!

I don't know what the others will say but in my opinion you case leather in preparation for tooling. Unless your glue is water activated like Gorilla glue which I would not recommend for this application, you would need dry leather.

Hi Hamish. Got a picture of the Buffalo? Is it Bison or Water Buffalo? Although we use "veg Tanned" and "tooling leather" interchangeably, Not all veg tanned is for tooling.

Kid: If you have an especially fuzzy back side (leather back side, that is) ... you have to Prep it before any slicking method. I use a belt sander and sand those big ol' fuzzies down so it looks a lot like suede... THEN and only then do any dye and slick method.

Hi Charlene: I haven't attempted to draw my own western floral yet but I have read a lot about it. To my eye it appears that you aren't "completing the curve" as Paul Burnette (RIP) talked about. The idea is to think in terms of spirals and circles and where one leaf or petal leaves off, the next one should follow that same curve. That is why your curvy leaves look stubby, you've cut them off before they complete the curve and or merge with the next element(flower) Even if you terminate the leaf part way, the eye should be able to follow an imaginary line that completes the spiral. Hope this helps some. Syl

I recommend that you talk to Cobra Steve. It may take him a while but he'll find you a good machine... just be certain of exactly what you want/need.

I've also seen videos of people not fully pulling the handle toward them.... while simultaneously complaining it won't pull up the bobbin thread and won't stitch. Here is a troubleshooting video. Here is a video of a woman correctly working the handle. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7tjZLGoLnIk

Dang it Mike!!

Cripes I wish I was rich... I'm over here in Caldwell wishing I'd win the lottery.

I'm sending this link to a friend who is just starting.

I have some chrome tanned that DOES take water. But I'm wondering if some of the "off" companies might have the buffalo you want. About a year ago I bought some deer tanned Cow from someone that liquidates odd lots from tanners. His site is http://www.theleatherguy.org/BISON-BUFFALO-HIDES-Old-15367.aspx He has chrome tanned and "old world" brain tanned buffalo. Sometimes he even has moose. Another place is http://www.brettunsvillage.com/leather/sides.htm I see about 3/4 of the way down is a black bison that looks nice.

Very well said, Mike. I hope those involved take this to heart and re-evaluate their biting words and make apologies.

Raven: Are shipments from NZ expensive too? I know that Kellie tools is back to making leather craft stamps, maybe Noel could make you a custom one? http://www.kellymida...ics.co.nz I figure it couldn't hurt to ask. Another American custom maker is Black River Laser. I know they ship internationally.

Nick: I search google books a lot for "how to info." I tend to look for free books, from the 1800s to early 1900s. Popular mechanics is a fun one to delve into as is "The Craftsman." The book located at this link ( https://play.google.com/books/reader?id=1FMrAAAAMAAJ&printsec=frontcover&output=reader&authuser=0&hl=en&pg=GBS.PA49 ) .... has a very interesting article on "THE CALIFORNIAN ART OF STAMPING AND EMBOSSING LEATHER. BY ARTHUR INKERS- LEY" It's on page 48.

No matter what... you'll need to sharpen your punches if you go with some from more frugal sources. I think I got my set from Ebay or Harbor Freight and yes, I had to sharpen all of them. But since then they've worked very nicely.

Hi Nick: Tooling leather is rather stiff and dry. It needs to be wet down, then allowed to return to it's natural color (This is called casing leather) Before you attempt to tool the leather. The flesh side is sometimes rough on poor quality leathers but you can use some sand paper to sand the "fuzz" away. The other pieces of leather look like they are chrome tanned stuff. That material is ok for projects that you do not want to tool or emboss. You definitely got a bag of random scrap leather which is ok if you aren't committed to tooling yet. They aren't the best pieces in the world but should allow you to practice without too much expense. If the brown leather was dyed... yes some rub off is normal if the "manufacturer" didn't do the necessary buffing to remove excess dye stuff. Your "stitching punch" is interesting. It is hard to determine from the picture, but I would think that your punch is more likely to be a rivet punch. I personally would not use that but rather get a good awl. The stitching wheel is rather toothy but I think it could still be used if You choose to punch every other hole. That should work for you until you can come up with a better solution. Being that you are located where things are difficult to get, you are likely to find that you'll be making a lot of your own tools or improvising with things you find along the way. That is OK! Early leather craftsmen did the same thing... and their efforts became tools we use today. Gather up some large nails, Screw drivers, bolts,... and some good metal files etc. You'll have a set of tools in no time with a little effort.

you might have better luck if you put this in Leather sewing machines. Wiz and others might know.

LOL I liked it too. Glad to be of service.

I've been told these are all sold.