bruce johnson

Gotcha, I haven't run into that much thread showing to meet the anvil. Just another curiosity question here. Is the frame marked on the other side or have the Osborne maker and size number been ground off. I haven't had that weren't marked on this side that I remember.

I was more comparing the threads on a 100 year plus old Newark marked single tube punch vs the Harrisons. Still when I clean one up and sharpen or replace the punch tubes I run a tap through the frame to clean the threads. I screw my punch tubes in to bottom out the tube threads so they wont twist while I am punching also.

It is a toss up really. Not a lot of difference in use between the original Randall Keystone, Dan's newer version of it, and the Osborne #84 now and old versions. Osborne did change out a few things on the repop of theirs. The handle thread is on smaller stock and the bolt spacing on the blade hole is different than the original 84..

I've used and handled the above two linked versions plus the CS Osborne #84 new and old versions plus a lot of others.. I'll limit these comments to the handled splitters referred to here. For casual use and if you don't mind possibly sharpening more often, the Tandy one will do the job. For the $200 difference and If you are wanting a work horse, the Campbell-Randall Keystone or the CSO #84 will be a better choice both in mechanics and blade life.

If this is an old frame - The old frames were tapped with a shallower tap and the new threads on the replacement tubes are the correct pitch but too high. Chase the threads in the frame with a new tap of the same size and you will be good without doing anything else. realize they used three sizes of taps - 00-7 used the same, #8 had it's own size, and #9 and #10 had a different one. I chase the threads in every single tube punch I do so down the line the new replacement tubes will fit.

I had the milled steel wheel and it fed heavy veg tan well.

One supplier I dealt with said rolling it tight grain side in compresses it and can wrinkle the grain. The flesh side is looser and not as prone to wrinkling. I store it that way too.

Since Joseph Dixon is no longer in business. It will be hard to get original parts. As far as blades, they are pretty simple and a good bladesmith should be able to make one. Rollers - any machine shop can make those. The Dixons are OK, not sure how easy they'd be to skive with. They are just not that common in the US although I've got one or two sitting here to be refurbished but don't come across maybe one a year usually.

Eleven years and a couple hundred splitters later and I've evolved in thinking from my post above. The tutorial page on my website has one on splitters that kind of sums it up - https://brucejohnsonleather.com/tutorials/ In a nutshell. I dont like the pliers grip Spittler pattern splitters as much as I used. A good one is good, a poor one is a lapskiver only in my hands. I was lucky early on and had some good ones. Not so as time went on. If the spring is weak or the pliers have a bit of wear they wont hold the position when released as well. I am way more of a fan of the Osborne #86 than I used to be. Simple design and if you follow the principles - good splitter. I may be in the minority but I don't like the Osborne #86A. The consistency from one to the next is variable. One might allow you to split to 1 oz. the next one might max out with a 1/16" gap between roller and blade. The bolt and nut arrangement on the adjuster can come loose when the nut twists off - LocTite is your friend. OK, I don't like the #86A as much as others, enough said. Still like the Chase and Krebs patterns a lot, and a good #84 will work for most needs.;

Some places will list them as splash rivets. FWIW the hand setters do a pretty good job of splitting and clinches the splits if you just have a few to do and don't want to buy dies for a press riveter.

That Harrison mark as already pointed out is post 1906 or so. The 1/16 markings say later than that, and the flat side on the wood handle says near the end of the wood handle version as as well. Im not sure exactly when but have been told some were made into the 1950s or 60s, or at least sold at that time. The earlier versions had both sides of the handles rounded over and the bars were marked in 1/8ths. Double bar gibs can mean two things. 1).The bars were made in different widths (and thicknesses for that matter). The Latta pattern draw gauges has two bar gibs and were narrower. Some of the other versions came with a narrower bar and had two gibs to fill space. Maybe a manufacturing way to use some excess narrow bars. 2). sometimes that back gib behind the bar is tapered end to end. The broaching on the handle slot is not exactly 90 degrees and a tapering gib will square it up. If you switch that gib end for end or put a flat one in you see the bar really go out of square. Sometimes there will be a little matching mark on the gib and frame to pair them up, sometimes not.

Woburn made these thickness gauges in sizes #1-#4 . Not all that uncommon but the people that have them don't usually part with them. The #2 seems to be the usual size I get. The #4 is a whopper and has a 12" reach.

Found in at least half the old shoe sets I get. Explanation is used to smooth waxed edges.

Few options Take some skirting scrap and build up the burned out are at the bottom of the neck to make it level. Wrap the neck and back lip of the horncap with a mulehide wrap and then put the rubber on over it. - easiest Strip off the horn leather and recover the horn. Leave the wings long and tack them into the gullet. Cover with a mulehide wrap and rubber over that. 2nd easiest.

Sorry to be late replying, this notification just popped up on my feed. I stitched them first, then dipped. It is hard to get latigo to bond well with just glue anyway, and occasionally would have a rein separate even while sewing.

Ken, It probably was me and shared to me by an old guy 20+ years ago. . A freehand stitch groover/patent leather tool/gum tool (whatever you choose to call it is the trick. It will cut the top of the stitches off or severely weaken them so the liner pulls right off and takes most of the stitches with it. Shameless plug - I sell that tool

The only splitter documentation I know of for a crank splitter is for the Landis 30, and it is pretty sparse on detailed useable breakdown/reassembly information. The top lever for the adjustment on the Champion appears to be broken off. Is that correct? If so, those parts don't exist except off another splitter. That is the weak link part for Champions and Americans. Champions are much less common at least for me than American or Landis, so spare Champion parts just aren't under the rocks I know of. It could be made, but would take a pretty good machinist. As far as adjusting the blade, same as the Landis or American - slide forward into the stops, back off a touch so the blades don't rub on the stops, and tighten everything.

It looks like a lot of parts are missing. Much like other machines, sourcing and buying a lot of parts usually ends up costing more than buying an intact or or new one.

I don't want to rain on the parade, but that knife probably won't be what you want. I get several a year like that. Good chance with all that pitting you may arrest the ongoing corrosion but the steel may be pretty crumbly. That broken tip is pretty big and no small feat to grind a new shape without taking out any temper that may be left in it. By the time you get to thinning the edge there may not be much left. CS Osborne Newark marked knives are not particularly rare and I just don't see any work on this one to be time well spent.

Here's my take and I guess the devils advocate in this thread. This is a general post of my experience and philosphy and not intended to be pointed just at your thread here. We can bet every successful business big or small knows their cost of materials, time for each step, and overhead. They don't build a car and then say, "this one is worth , umm, oh maybe $25,000?". Before the tool deal I started as a leather hobbyist , moved to a small "fun" business and eventually got into a "do or die - have to make money" business situation at one time for some medical debt. I got into formulas late and I'll throw it out that it was way too late. They don't have to be complicated but with regard to steps, get an idea of your time involved in getting out the leather, cutting, and putting away. Time spent stamping and a clock is your friend here - you will get faster and smoother but time yourself for stamping a project. Bigger stamps are faster than smaller stamps. I knew how many sq ft/hr I could do with each, how long a floral corner took, and that all factored in. Time spent sewing - for me on the Boss - 10"/minute, on the Adler or Ferdco - 24"/min. Time spent slicking and finishing. Stuff like that. Once you get some rates it makes estimating future projects a lot closer. Figure in incidentals and figure in future tool purchases. Add up time and costs with a fudge factor and then profit. Profit is not a dirty word. The real kicker now is your rate, what do you charge? Some people are happy working for beer money and some people are paying a second mortgage, nice vacation with the family, or making a living. You have to decide where you need to be. Is it worth $10/hour to sit in your shop all weekend and not spend family time? Do you need to make $500/weekend to help pay down the second? Do you want more Jueschke stamps, a powered sewing machine, or something else eventually for the business/hobby. Unlike fishing or golf, this pastime can pay off if you let it. I never sold the first trout to pay for the fishing boat. I have sold rope cans to keep from bankruptcy though. Once you figure a shop rate and do the math - then you can decide your market. But...you have to be honest with your skill level and speed early on. Pete Gorrell told me this one time and I'm going to paraphrase it to get it right. "Don't sell a $5000 saddle for $3000, and don't sell a $3000 saddle for $5000. Give the customer what they paid for". Are you outpricing everyone locally? Not a problem if you aren't looking locally. It is a problem for people setting up at street fairs or word of mouth at work,. If you are eventually selling through the internet, doesn't matter. Are you planning to sell 100 or 10? all things to consider. I sold several hundred rope cans and probably 5 of them in a three county radius. I was surrounded by good saddlemakers who made $5000 tooled saddles. I built $3200 roughouts and $3500 partial basket stampeds because they didn't price them to "want to" build them. Saddles for me were all local market. There's room for different price points and different target markets.

I was there two years ago for the last one. That was supposed to be the last ones Weaver were hosting at their location. The next ones were supposed to be in Mt Hope at an auction facility. Didn't happen last year and not sure it'll take off again.

Weaver Leather hosted it.

Clyde Cutlery made them and rebranded them for Shapleigh. Usually a shallow etched marking that doesn't survive all that well but a distinctive handle shape. The Clydes have an oval mark, the Shapleighs have a diamond shaped logo. I've had a lot of them and here's my thoughts. The steel is not all that hard and they are forgiving to sharpen. If you mess up an angle, you don't spend all day fixing it. They will get a sharp edge and hold it pretty well. They require more stropping in use than one of the $200+ plus knives but are worth the price point they usually sell at. Several years ago I had a shop buy every Clyde or Shapleigh I could find for their workers. The shop's idea was they could buy 3 of these for the price of one premium knife. If somebody dropped one they could grab another. If one went out the door in a lunchpail they weren't out a bunch either.

Osborne made a budget priced knife with a round handle, not the typical oval cross section. Nickle ferrule on some of them I recall. I don't have any left here to check.

Scootch, You are so right that Wayne Jueschke makes some great tools as you have found. You also found out that Wayne is a great guy to do business with but has essentially minimal to no online presence and only takes payment by check. I have been selling Wayne's mauls and string cutters for several months through my website. We recently started selling some of his stamps as well. Same price as Wayne but the ability to see impressions on-line and pay by PayPal or card. We have a small representation of his stamps to start with and are adding more as it progresses. Some are sold out currently but there are more and others in the mail as of today. Here is a link to my webpage with Wayne''s tools - https://brucejohnsonleather.com/leather-tools-sale/wayne-jueschke-mauls-and-tools/