jcuk

Yes they are chrome tanned Abbey used to sell Girth strap butts like that many moons ago here is a couple of links to what they sell these days. https://www.abbeyengland.com/chrome-butt-e1g39c A bit more refined these days. https://www.abbeyengland.com/chrome-cut-strips-1-7-25mm-e1g29a And here's what you are looking at on the old saddle probably 1mm to light for my liking, but it is very strong and durable leather many old turn out rugs used to have their metal fitting stitched on using this type of leather. Hope this helps JCUK

He is where i sit on this i would rather have the ability to stitch with a Awl then not have it because for sure if you can stitch with Awl you will be able to stitch with stitching chisels i am not saying its wrong not learning to use a Awl just saying it a good skill set to have. As to anyone who thinks its quicker to using stitching chisels i think not in a lot of cases it depends of who is doing the stitching, most tutorials on how to stitch with a Awl are slowed down to a pace where they can explain the process i bet you would been surprised how quick some can stitch and get good results, as for stitching three layers of 9/10 oz (10mm +) i very much doubt the chisels will go through three layers as someone said maybe KS Blades might do it i have looked at their chisels the blade is only 10mm in length and even if they can do it i wonder how many times you will have to strike the chisel to go all the way through and then having to pull it back out pretty time consuming me thinks, also i have seen they offer replacement blades and $5 a pop and you are responsible for round shipping cost so they must break, in some 25+ years i have never broke pricking iron, the thing i find really ironic they offer a rather expensive uncomfortable looking Awl on their sight do they know something we don't know That all being said yes i was lucky enough to been taught how to stitch with a Awl and would not have it any other way and one other thing when you are pricking your work as you go with the Awl you get a feel for the leather you are working with which you will not get with pre punched holes and i would not advise anyone who makes and repairs tack not to use chisels. Hope this helps JCUK

My thoughts exactly that will wear well.

This is what they use to punch the stitch marks, before i had one i use an old billet for a template it is probably a fore runner for a stitching chisel as opposed to a pricking iron. https://www.abbeyengland.com/economy-strap-pricker-13-3-8-7-35mm-g--s--pricker Hope this helps JCUK

The reason why they use this stitch is on the backside of your stitch you gather up double amount of webbing with one stitch, he is a link but i would not recommend using your stitching awl as it may tear and cut (slice) into the webbing use a a scratch awl or another needle of the same size on your thread. Hope this helps JCUK

Thats how's girth billets are stitched to the saddle webbing it does produce a longer longer stitch on the backside of your work ie the webbing.

Just remember those few hairs may carry the Ringworm which you don't want into your workshop maybe onto your bench, tools. and your clothing, other pets as well. Some people do pay stupid money for rugs which could be ripped and ruined the first time their horse has it on i have seen this happen someone i know paid £600+ for a new rug for their horse only for it to ripped apart the first time the horse had it on overnight and no amount of good repairs would make it worth while to repair it. Hope this helps JCUK

This is what i use for my hollow edge shaves and only use the compound that came with it. after that i fold a piece of soft hide flesh side up on the edge of my bench or cutting board and give it a quick polish, for the top i also run it through a piece of heavy waxed thread but not every time i use them. Every time i use a cutting tool i give them a quick strop before and after use just a few seconds i find i don't have to sharpen my cutting tools to often i have Round that i have owned for six + years never sharpened it once in that time just a strop before and after, and yes it will depend on the quality of the steel on your tools. Hope this helps JCUK

I bet there are some here still repairing them without being washed, i did it many moons ago have to say not one of my favourite things i have ever done, but repairing rugs is not something i like doing anyway. Would you prefer them being washed and cleaned first ?. Its a big health and safety thing here and for me its not a health and safety thing gone mad, i have seen some pretty minging rugs in my time. JCUK

This may help, ignore postal thats to the UK https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300311315690?hash=item45ebf304ea:g:roAAAOSwDP1btnY~ Hope this helps JCUK

Never nice, but hang on to the memories

Here in the UK it is a legal requirement to have the rugs washed and cleaned before any repairs are carried out. Some of the rugs to be repaired may have be stored with horse mess (to put it nicely) still on them that may have mould spores on them also stored where Rats and Mice may have messed on them too, there is a big chance some may have Ring worm and other such nasties on them and its widely know Ring worm can survive quite a long time of some surfaces including wood thats why a lot of stables will be steamed cleaned if there has been a big out break, so be careful you don't want to get this in your work shop in some way or more importantly on you or any of your customers. I don't know if it is a legal requirement in France but you may want to check if it is, if it not you may want to offer the washing and cleaning side of it as part of the service at a cost of course, lots of people started companies doing such a thing when it became a requirement here, some i know do good business doing this. Here a company that will have everything you need to repair rugs. https://www.abbeyengland.com Hope this helps JCUK

Yes i used a piece of glass to hide where the leather has been doubled/trebled it makes it blend before staining and burning, now i use a Snow board/Ski scrapper works just as well. Hope this helps JCUK

Maybe of interest, this stitch looks like the stitch that is achieved with the speedy stitcher. Here is a video that may help with your quest for some of similar tool. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K5HuDCxAUUw https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V2UPOmhnwQA Swiss Army knife a bit rougher though. Hope this helps JCUK

Maybe try swapping it with a plastic zip that may help. Hope this helps JCUK

Sorry its from one of my favourite shows https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OLJ8qLa1xIw

Does that include the one thats in Seinfeld. Nice first work

Have you not tried English bridle leather that Hermann Oak and Wickett & Craig carry never used it myself but English Bridle leather this side of the pond is finished on the grain and flesh side so i am taking HO and W&C would be the same meaning no work needed on the flesh side unless you split it. I get my leather from Abbey England which is Sedgwick heavy bridle leather 4/4.5mm because most of my work is for the horse racing also use their Sedgwick rein back 4/4.5mm because in horse racing the reins are normally longer than normal bridles. I also get bridle leather from Metropolitan leather. I have not used wall paste but i know some do, i like Fiebling edge enamel does not shine up well but does seal the edges well, another method i like to use is normal edge stain and then go over the top of it with Astral wax and give it a good burnish again seals the edges well. Another thing i use the Astral wax for is the flesh of leather to seal it works well only done this on veg tan but don't see any reason it would not work on chrome tanned. Hope this helps JCUK

Get back tomorrow watching my football team win and its not (soccer) its football and a glass of wine or three of wine probably won't make sense.

Thats some good stuff there but have to say thats to much like hard work for me to lace up early in morning but thats saying more about me. GOOD WORK

Good to hear, me thinks it could be a benefit of Brexit this might not have been the case before, think Canada have signed some kind of trade agreement with the UK but i could be wrong.

Interesting i have never had seal the flesh side of any of my bridles unless i have split something down. Just wondering why and what leather are you using. JCUK

Sorry to hear that. Whats happening right now reminds me of a title of song from NL finest Stiff Little Fingers Welcome to the Liers Club.

Was that because of the stupid mainland to NL border checks, if so hopefully that maybe resolved with recent events, interesting times a foot at the moment me thinks to keep an eye on. Thats why i suggested to get something closer to home because the leather merchants have already imported it for you yes they may charge a bit for that, hell Tandy ripped people off for years this side of the pond when they had shops charging Pound and dollar like for like here, did nobody think to buy off Tandy USA of course they did but import duties, shipping put paid to that me thinks.

My thoughts exactly, only i am on the other side of the pond and have to say my needles are over 20 years old probably need to invest in some new ones for myself. He a link they are Canada i have done business with good company to work with, don't know what brand they are but maybe give them a ring and find out they have Osborne tools of their site some i guessing they might be Osbornes never used them myself but think they should be ok. I use unwaxed linen thread wax it my self only time i use Tiger thread is when i am attaching girth billets to the saddle webbing and thats only because i think the webbing is more abrasive than the linen thread i have used linen thread for this in the past only 18/6 thread doubled. https://aaronmartin.com/product.php?cat_id=993&submit=View&catview=20&s=Harness Maker Tools & More&catview2=&catview3=&s2=&s3= Hope this helps JCUK