jcuk

I bet there are some here still repairing them without being washed, i did it many moons ago have to say not one of my favourite things i have ever done, but repairing rugs is not something i like doing anyway. Would you prefer them being washed and cleaned first ?. Its a big health and safety thing here and for me its not a health and safety thing gone mad, i have seen some pretty minging rugs in my time. JCUK

This may help, ignore postal thats to the UK https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300311315690?hash=item45ebf304ea:g:roAAAOSwDP1btnY~ Hope this helps JCUK

Never nice, but hang on to the memories

Here in the UK it is a legal requirement to have the rugs washed and cleaned before any repairs are carried out. Some of the rugs to be repaired may have be stored with horse mess (to put it nicely) still on them that may have mould spores on them also stored where Rats and Mice may have messed on them too, there is a big chance some may have Ring worm and other such nasties on them and its widely know Ring worm can survive quite a long time of some surfaces including wood thats why a lot of stables will be steamed cleaned if there has been a big out break, so be careful you don't want to get this in your work shop in some way or more importantly on you or any of your customers. I don't know if it is a legal requirement in France but you may want to check if it is, if it not you may want to offer the washing and cleaning side of it as part of the service at a cost of course, lots of people started companies doing such a thing when it became a requirement here, some i know do good business doing this. Here a company that will have everything you need to repair rugs. https://www.abbeyengland.com Hope this helps JCUK

Yes i used a piece of glass to hide where the leather has been doubled/trebled it makes it blend before staining and burning, now i use a Snow board/Ski scrapper works just as well. Hope this helps JCUK

Maybe of interest, this stitch looks like the stitch that is achieved with the speedy stitcher. Here is a video that may help with your quest for some of similar tool. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K5HuDCxAUUw https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V2UPOmhnwQA Swiss Army knife a bit rougher though. Hope this helps JCUK

Maybe try swapping it with a plastic zip that may help. Hope this helps JCUK

Sorry its from one of my favourite shows https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OLJ8qLa1xIw

Does that include the one thats in Seinfeld. Nice first work

Have you not tried English bridle leather that Hermann Oak and Wickett & Craig carry never used it myself but English Bridle leather this side of the pond is finished on the grain and flesh side so i am taking HO and W&C would be the same meaning no work needed on the flesh side unless you split it. I get my leather from Abbey England which is Sedgwick heavy bridle leather 4/4.5mm because most of my work is for the horse racing also use their Sedgwick rein back 4/4.5mm because in horse racing the reins are normally longer than normal bridles. I also get bridle leather from Metropolitan leather. I have not used wall paste but i know some do, i like Fiebling edge enamel does not shine up well but does seal the edges well, another method i like to use is normal edge stain and then go over the top of it with Astral wax and give it a good burnish again seals the edges well. Another thing i use the Astral wax for is the flesh of leather to seal it works well only done this on veg tan but don't see any reason it would not work on chrome tanned. Hope this helps JCUK

Get back tomorrow watching my football team win and its not (soccer) its football and a glass of wine or three of wine probably won't make sense.

Thats some good stuff there but have to say thats to much like hard work for me to lace up early in morning but thats saying more about me. GOOD WORK

Good to hear, me thinks it could be a benefit of Brexit this might not have been the case before, think Canada have signed some kind of trade agreement with the UK but i could be wrong.

Interesting i have never had seal the flesh side of any of my bridles unless i have split something down. Just wondering why and what leather are you using. JCUK

Sorry to hear that. Whats happening right now reminds me of a title of song from NL finest Stiff Little Fingers Welcome to the Liers Club.

Was that because of the stupid mainland to NL border checks, if so hopefully that maybe resolved with recent events, interesting times a foot at the moment me thinks to keep an eye on. Thats why i suggested to get something closer to home because the leather merchants have already imported it for you yes they may charge a bit for that, hell Tandy ripped people off for years this side of the pond when they had shops charging Pound and dollar like for like here, did nobody think to buy off Tandy USA of course they did but import duties, shipping put paid to that me thinks.

My thoughts exactly, only i am on the other side of the pond and have to say my needles are over 20 years old probably need to invest in some new ones for myself. He a link they are Canada i have done business with good company to work with, don't know what brand they are but maybe give them a ring and find out they have Osborne tools of their site some i guessing they might be Osbornes never used them myself but think they should be ok. I use unwaxed linen thread wax it my self only time i use Tiger thread is when i am attaching girth billets to the saddle webbing and thats only because i think the webbing is more abrasive than the linen thread i have used linen thread for this in the past only 18/6 thread doubled. https://aaronmartin.com/product.php?cat_id=993&submit=View&catview=20&s=Harness Maker Tools & More&catview2=&catview3=&s2=&s3= Hope this helps JCUK

He are some places that may have what your looking for the first two i use a lot and cant really say i have been disappointed with what they send. Not sure about your budget, i know Abbey are going to raise their prices soon to view their prices you will have to create an account they don't hassle you. Metropolitan are good to deal with too very good if it is possible to go in person. https://www.abbeyengland.com https://www.metropolitanleather.com http://www.leprevo.co.uk Have used them for some things but never had any leather from them but prices seem good and have some decent looking deals in clearance. https://www.aacrack.co.uk Never used them but look like they have some nice leathers but something tells me won't be cheap. https://pittards.com Never used these but i have used Pittards leather sourced from Abbey nice leather. Other may have other places they can recommend and yes JT Batchelor Halo Jones has said are a great place to get leather from and other supplies from well worth a visit if you can. Hope this helps JCUK

With shipping and import duties on top, where i can i support UK based suppliers first after that European, North America, Australia and New Zealand. And if none of them have what i need i probably have to begrudgingly go to you know where.

Just curious why you want leather from this company, i am assuming you are in the UK? Are there no tanneries or leather merchants in the UK that may have something you can use. Or is it a particular leather they have that no one else has.

With that particular type of turn most will just stitch through the filler at the point stitch which would have been skived down to fit under the turn. Hope this helps JCUK

Ok here is a video with a method and yes its is hard to see what's going on, i was going to reply last night but a glass or three of wine put paid to that, as it is would be easy to show you in person but hard to explain without the help of a video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kfpT4Tkq6gM Notice how she gets to end of where needs to be stitched around 10 06 she back stitches one but only she angles the needle up between the turn being stitched so the needles can be put through the join pulled under the turn to the opposite side that has to be stitched prick your strap now put your needle through the prick mark from the inside of the turn one stitch mark up and do another back stitch to match both sides up hope this is making sense. (It maybe better for you to leave the last stitch a little loose until you have threaded the needles to the other side leave enough thread pull tight on the first side being stitched once the needles are through and once they are it should be easy enough to those stitches tight enough) Hope this helps JCUK

Just a thought why don't you print out a leather conversion chart fold it up put it in your pocket next to the gauge are already using. Hope this helps JCUK

Skirt Shave (french Edger) you decide. You decide who understands how to use one. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZKwoGWddOro https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dej8BH1DFgs Hope this helps JCUK

Word of warning on using a skirt Shave (French Edger) there is a learning curve to use one safely, as i was told when i did my training its a tool many saddlers have a lot of respect for. And will say don't think its a tool that can easily be used light weight chrome tanned leather, i certainly know that it would not be my go to tool for the weights of leather you mentioned. But it is a great tool for the right kind of job just make sure its good and sharp and had a good strop best thing i can say to you make sure you keep your free hand and fingers behind the cutting edge because in inexperienced users they can be hard to control especially if they are starting to go dull they can have tendency to not cut how you want and suddenly slip and if your free hand is in front of the cutting edge ouch. Hope this helps JCUK