Constabulary

Yes, that's how the thread loop is formed the hook tip is catching. It is making a small jump before it raising again. All 29K patchers (and others) are doing this. Have you checked a 29K71 manual and have compared the number of teeth of the racks? There is picture showing the open gearbox. It also explains the timing but not sure if it helps in your case. Your machine has a timing eccentric, right?

I read what you write and I have a 29K71 but seems there is something different going on with this SL29 machine. I would assume the cams are poorly manufactured and the gears and rods too. In this case I think I have to have this machine in front of me and try it out by my self. Just an assumption - has your gear box two small squared looking holes on the tip of the gear box where the tips of the rod comes through? I ask because I assume the rods are too short and Chinese probably have produced a gear box w/o the opening for the rods and that why the have used shorter rods but since I have no pictures I can´t tell. This is just a very wild guess since I never have seen a Chinese patcher...

I was in Nijmegen for the 4 Daagse once. I remember there was a village called Berg en Daal - it was a pain but I made it! Always wanted to do the 4 Daagse twice but I never did. Looking forward to some pictures.

BTW really look at the timing belt - if it looks cracked be careful, its a real pain to replace it. I did that once and since then I don´t like the Adler 67 class anymore.

And in picture 2 I can see the pedals - I have a sharp "Singer eye" I´m from Northern Germany - south of Bremen. If you pick up the machine please take some pictures of the other machines he has (especially Singers) - if possible. What rural town is he from - the whole Netherlands are rural (with some exceptions). Is he probably close to the German border?

maybe 300 - 600 for a 67 and maybe 200 more for a 167 - it depends on how the overall technical condition its. Does it need some adjustment or a new timing belt or hook, does it come with additional accessories (feet, needles, guides). There seems to be a Singer machine somewhere around (i can smell it) - what other machines does the seller have? Are you from Germany?

It is a triple feed. 67 has a small hook (approx 22mm diameter bobbin) 167 has a large hook (approx 26mm diameter bobbin). Thtas how you can tell the difference when the tag is not present. Motor is a clutch motor - you probably want to replace it with a servo motor.

The days of original Singer parts are gone! If you can find original parts they are for sure a bit more expensive than after market parts. Some dealers still may have some OEM parts in stock. Try Toledo Sewing Machines or Keystone Sewing Machines.

The treadle stand does not belong to this machine, it belongs to a short arm machine like a 29K4 or the like and it is not complete as you probably have noticed. So if I were you I´d sell the machine w/o the stand because the two parts together look quite stupid - somehow. Unfortunately it is not setup for attaching a front wheel so that's a big minus in my opinion. Has is a hand wheel on the right side? Please post larger pictures of the front and back of the machine head (full view w/o stand).

Have you turned the right screw? There are 2 on the spring one for holding it (the right one) one for the tension (the left one). The 111 are old machines and the spring is a wear part like the entire hook an many other parts. Sooner or later you simply have to replace it. When you are buying a new spring I´d buy new screws too. They are tiny and when you loose em you are screwed. See attached picture Do you have a parts list and manual for your machine? If not download them.

Post some good clear pictures - maybe someone can help you or will even send you an offer if he lives in your era (tell people where you live). On my end patchers are rather cheap when you buy the "as found" but also depends on the above mentioned. Since you don´t know the machine and seems you also cannot operate it don´t expect a high price. People like to know what they are buying. A fully working machine will bring you much more than a "I know nothing of it" machine. It´s always the same - if you want good money you have to give good information - no good information - no good money. But lots of folks don´t understand it and think a machines sells because it is the machine it is. Like "I have googled it and they sell for $600 elsewhere". Thats wrong! Best way to get the most $$$ for it is: clean it adjust it, look for a manual and parts list, buy some needles and thread, test sew it, include some sewing samples, take a lot of good detailed pictures and maybe a video showing the machine how it sews it and you will get more for it than for "I know nothing of it" machine.

Between $1 and $800 - prices depends on where you live (USA, GB, Germany, Australia, Fiji, Iceland...), the condition, the accessories, the stitch length....

seems to proof me right again - keep old cast iron alive

poorly manufactured after market foot or your original foot & feed dog combination were manufactured for a special sewing purpose and the two only work together but not with other feet (you never know).

I have a bunch of Singer machines, even some Made in Germany but as far as I know there is no metric thread so I guess some one tapped / re-tapped the metric threads. regarding gears - I have attached a few pictures of my spare gears, maybe that helps.

is that the Flux Capacitor 2.0?

I have a large hook Minerva needle feed sewing machine on Ebay UK. It comes with an complete extra hook assy and some other bits. Will ship EU wide. Open for offers outside Ebay. LW member will get a much better price when buying outside Ebay. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331779809775

I unfortunately do not have a Colibri Patcher to check it. So we have to count on the Glenns expertise

I probably have a shuttle hook and bobbin but I´m not 100% sure if it is the same. Maybe LW member SHOEPATCHER will jump in here - he for sure knows more.

Agree - If you have bought the machine from a dealer I would kick his ass. Anyway better learn how the things work - it will save you $$$ and time.

I wish more folks would share their manuals.

If you can´t lower the bobbin tension you have to increase the top tension - as I said try a heavier spring in your tension assembly. Or maybe something is wrong with your bobbin tension spring (maybe worn). I´d remove the bobbin case and check what going on there. Check the manual it usually tells you what to do when either tension is wrong. I hope you are you worried about turning some screws on your machine. Calling a mechanic for tiny adjustments makes no sense. Maybe you can post pictures or youtube video or the like. Pictures often tell more than 1000 words.

hard to tell from the distance (as often) and the amount of pressure is also hard to explain since there is no dial with digits. Oil sometimes helps or maybe the flanks of the bell crank lever are rubbing too hard against the presser boot bar. Or maybe the thumb screw for the foot pressure is rubbing against the nut next to it (don´t have the parts name on mind right now)...

Hard to tell from the distance. I´d try to lower the bobbin tension even when a mechanic has adjusted it. Make 1/4 turns on the tension screw and check again. I don´t place my self above a mechanic but "adjusted by a mechanic" really means nothing since you never know how qualified a mechanic is. Thread tension adjustment is something you should be able to fix by your self because you have to deal with it more that one time in your life. When you are changing the thread size you most likely have to play with tension again. I don´t know what kind of tension spring you have in your tension assembly but College Sewing in the UK is offering heavier top tension springs for JUKI and they will most likely fir your 211 machine as well. https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/B3114-232-000-BEEHIVE-SPRING-HEAVY-JUKI BTW - do you have a manual for your machine? If not get one - it often helps you with a lot of basic adjustments,

Even a mechanic can´t help you? I guess you are talking about top tension, right? You could probably install a heavier top tension spring. Or have you ever lowered the bottom tension? What thread size and what needle size are you using? Have you bought it from a dealer?