Constabulary

As I´m on the other side of the pond I always check Evilbay first and most of the times I have luck: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=&_osacat=13956&_mdo=Collectibles&_pcats=1&_armrs=1&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xsinger+52W&_nkw=singer+52W&_sacat=0&_from=R40 Some parts are available trough College Sewing UK https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/catalog/search.aspx?keywords=52w The tension unit seems to be the standard tension unit you find on Singer 111w series and clones as well. Or ask some of the known dealers who have banner on the top of the forum

I have loosen the screws (I was curious what behind the wheel is) and there is nothing you can damage. The spring just pushes the plunger wheel against the adjuster and it just fits in one position. But I have to say that I had it adjusted to the longest stitch length before I disassembled it. I assembled it again in less than a minute. I´m still learning new things about my machine - nice lesson for me and I have found an other spot I have to clean. I have taken some pictures just for the case you are scared. I hope this helps

Is there a die set for Lift The Dot fasteners for a eyelet / grommet press available? Or at least dies for the stud part? Or has someone have an old complete hand set for the LTD fasteners?

also, make sure the the stitch regulator + gib are installed correctly. When these parts are new they have flattened spot in the middle and the flattened spot should be in the lower position and facing towards the presser foot bar (gib + regulator) - as far as I know. At least this is how they were installed at my 29K71 when I restored it. Picture "stolen" from college sewing UK

I could imagine that the "feed motion ring slide bar" is more worn in some spots than in others depending in which direction they have sewn most of the time. But when even a roller is worn off that it even looks squared I think there will be other parts that are worn off too. Parts may no longer work together properly due to the wear. The shim thing can solve some issues temporarily but bass is not very durable. On the long run you may need a new bell bell crank lever and "feed motion ring slide bar" as these are the parts that rub on each other and your machine is probably several decades old and sooner or later these two parts are just worn off. But I´d assume there will be some more worn parts in your head.

I´m sorry to hear that. Replacing the belt is not the easiest job. You have to remove the hand wheel and the bushing. I did that with my 111G156 last year when I restored it. Regarding the adjuster - there is a spring next to the plunger wheel (the one with the grove) and it is held in place by another disc which is secured with 2 set screws. I´d try to loosen the 2 screws and release the spring. But I have to admit I have not done this before but this could be a solution. Do you have a manual for your machine? Often the Singer manuals have an instruction for mechanics included.

in the beginning you can see her machines - one is a 45K (as it seems) but the other one...

Or a Singer 52W - but could be any post bed sewing machine. Roller foot seems to be a swing away type but I´m not sure. But she has a huge hand wheel installed. Pretty cool shes turning it by hand - one has to tell her about servo motors But I don't see an edge guide.

So the stitch length regulator works again? Nice story - I always like it when people give old things a new life. Especially when they have a little story. In my opinion most of the times it is worth to restore these vintage Singer (and other brand) industrial machines. Often enough there is still a lot of life left in them!

Maybe a good used Singer 45K is machine for you to start with, they are wide spread and are available as flat bed and cylinder bed machines but there are darning machines out there as well so be care full. But they are quite old heavy machines but built like tanks and they last for decades! Parts are still available for them.

Oh - stop - I just noticed that you have option for a 133K13! The 133K13 is not really a leather sewing machine it is a sack darning / repair machine which has not feed at all. The one Harry Rogers uses is a 133K8 (as far as I know). Both mentioned machines are not suitable for heavier leather work.

I´m also looking for a 133K8 for cotton webbing + canvas work. As far as I figured out they were originally made for heavy canvas work. The machine has NO reverse stitching and it also has NOT the common triple feed (compound feed) - it has top and bottom feed but no needle feed. Other than that it seems to be a nice one.

ENIGMA was a German cipher machine - not a sewing machine but maybe there is something "special" going on with this enigma. Maybe the Germans used sewing machines as cipher machines in WWII... One of the "riddles" that never will be solved . **just kidding** Pictures is not very good and too much stuff covering it to make a guess.

The stitch length regulation happens on the underside of the machine. I guess your regulator is stuck because of old oil deposits or so. There are two "wheels", one is the one for the plunger and the other rubs on it when you regulate the stitch length. These 2 wheels work like a clutch I´d say. I assume these two are "gummed up". Some drips of kerosene, paint thinner or penetrating oil may solve this. And oil the entire machine from time to time this prevents everything from gumming up. Do not loosen any set screws this may throw your machine out of time.

Then it is probably your needle bar that causes the problem. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=56271&p=360988 It also could be the safety clutch that is released, check this video:

Nice shot! The only reason I could imagine to sell the Juki is that it probably has no reverse. Otherwise I see no advantage for the 111G156.

This is how it works on the above mentioned clutch motor when run on 220V single phase with delta connection and capacitor - not sure if it looks the same on yours. otherwise this Video should give you an idea:

As far as I remember on an AC motor you have to switch the 2 wires of the starting coil. Don´t know how your motor is wired and if it has a capacitor nor not but when I work on our German Pfaff, WEG, or Kobold brand clutch motors (all set up with capacitors for 220V singe phase) you just have to switch one cable in the junction box. But don´t ask me how this works on your certain motor, I´m not an electrician.

will try to walk on water next time.

There also is a small curved metal piece where the thread take up spring rests on - it is missing at your machine.

so no need for having this pinned any longer - or?

I think everything you need is on my Pfaff machine. Pictures will be sent by PN

THIS IS REALLY AWESOME !!!!

oooh men - you really have fully stripped it. Good luck with adjusting it when you have assembled it again. I will send pictures of my "spare parts machine" tomorrow.

I have a Pfaff 142 which I would sell for parts or I can strip the parts from if if you want, this saves shipping costs. I can send some pictures if you are interested. It´s possibly much cheaper than buying new parts but it is up to you.