Constabulary

Really? Once again domestic sewing machine sciences?

ouh - sorry for that kind of machine I have no timing values... But when do a google search with "Timing Chinese Patcher site:leatherworker.net/forum" something may pop up. EDIT: This guy has some videos reg. the Chinese patcher - maybe helpful for you: https://www.youtube.com/user/BareHerbalBubbles/videos

What machine are you using? Most likely needle hook timing is off or needle bar is to high or too low.

The 30-1 is a patcher machine with top feed only (no needle feed) and it leaves marks of top side of the leather because the machine is feeding material with a sharp toothed presser foot. These patcher machines are not really production machines they are basically meant for repairing things like shoes, bag, pouches, sewing on patches on blankets and other things and so forth but they are not really meant for sewing gun holsters. Patchers usually just have a max. stitch length of 5mm (and often patcher do not reach this due to worn parts) and stitches become shorter the thicker the material gets. Actually some machines can handle 207 thread but usually they max out at 138 furthermore the 30-1 has an extremely tiny bobbin and it holds just a few meters of thread. Do a quick google search and you find a lot of topics on LW.net regarding the Adler 30-1 machines https://www.google.com/search?q=Adler+30-1+site%3Aleatherworker.net%2Fforum&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8 If you still want a patcher machine better look for a 30-7 (higher foot lift and larger bobbin) or similar patcher with large bobbins.

If you can (financially) keep them both! f you have space problems alter one machine stand the way that you can switch the machine heads. That would safe you a lot of space.

I´m not sure what M60 really is - is it like TKT 60?

Since it is your son in law just go ahead and test the machine. This is a very comfortable buying situation! Pretty sure it will suit your needs. Download a manual - read it - test the machine. Pretty sure you will be please but as always - used machines may need some TLC / adjustment / oiling here and there especially when it was in storage for a long time. BTW 10oz total thickness or multiple layers?

so maybe these two drawings help you to understand how the tension release works - it´s from a Singer based machine bit the 239 has very similar parts #19 (Dwg. 1) is the tension release slide (If I recall correctly you replaced it once, don´t you?). When you lift the foot lift lever it pushes against #20 (Dwg. II - this pin goes back to front through the machine head) and this pin is pushing against #17 which is pushing against the small pin # 11 (which is inside the threaded stud) and this small pin is finally releasing the tension when it is pushing against the disc #13. So I guess for what ever reason the tension release #19 slide is (probably) too low and does not reach pin #20. Or the small pin #11 is too short and does not reach the center bar of the dics #13. Or - the center bar on the disc #13 is missing or worn. You probably can slightly adjust the center bar on disc #13 (gently hammering it toward the small pin) or you DIY a new small pin from a bicycle spoke or a drill bit or what ever you have. Maybe just 0.5 mm - 1mm are missing - that's already enough for not heaving a tension release. All a guess w/o sitting in front of your machine. EDIT: or - loosen screw #22 and push the whole tension unit toward the machine body and then tighten #22 again (of course) - maybe it helps .

Is it probably because you have no proper top tension release? When you have fully lift the foot lift lever and the thread take up lever is in upper position check if the two tension discs are free or if they are still under pressure of the spring.

If you need a manual the 29K72 is almost identical to the 29K60 - just minor differences. Hopes this helps: Singer 29K71, 29K72, 29K73.pdf

I´m not sure but the stitch length in relation to the fairly large needle holes looks very short so it its kind of perforating the leather and that weakens it - or not? Are you using a leather tip needle or round point needle? Just my thoughts...

It´s because of worn parts - the bell crank lever (the part with the stitch length numbers on it ) has a major influence on the stitch length. It´s likely the tip is worn down. The feed motion ring has an influence as well but you barely can tell if it is worn or not. So first thing I´d replace it the bell crank lever. Don´t know what part supplier you have in Canada but the parts number is 82167. You should find this part almost everywhere - even on Ebay. Also make sure the stitch length adjuster is correctly assembled. The squared frame and the gib have a "wedge" which have to be positioned correctly. The wedges give the presser foot bar space for its movement (feeding).

Funny to read my own 6 years old posts - I have learned a lot since then My 111G156 has a 12mm foot lift and can sew what fits under the feet but depends on density of the material. The 111G156 has 5SPI when you have equalized F & R stitch length but you can alter that to a longer F stich length but when you do that the R stitches become shorter. The procedure is mentioned in the manual.

instruction manual - no service manual, sorry! Maybe this pictures gives you an idea - its from a 595 parts list and it should pretty much the same as on your machine I think.

I haven an english language Pfaff 141-5 Manual. The head part is the same as on you 191 (permanent wheel feed + roller foot), the bed section is of course different. The file size is to big to attach here so when you send me your email address by PM I can forward the PDF to you. Maybe that helps you. You only say "that needs timing" so what particular problem do you haven or what problem is not covered in the other manuals. What screw do you mean? Please post pictures (not too small please).

Just to put it straight - it was the black lever?

You may have seen this. Pretty sure this would work on a Cobra as well but check with the dealers: However to me it looks a bit odd too me. I´m guessing they are running too thick leather in their binding attachment. And therefore the stitches are shorter than the binder attachment travel. When you run too thick binding material through your binder the synchronized binder bracket pulls back the binding material and stitches become shorter because of the friction between binder and binding material - guess how I know (had the same problem with my 108w20). EDIT: Just noticed this Video has been posted by Uwe before

BTW - I may have a heavier spring as well if shipping at college sewing is toooo expensive - let me know. I have approx 15+ beehive springs in all kind of strengths, lengths, diameters... But I have to check how much shipping to DK would be.

Like this? https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/b3114-232-000-beehive-spring-heavy-juki-genuine.html

LW member UWE once sold similar ones but seems to be out of stock atm. His version did not come in contact with drop down guide. https://uwe.store/products/ux441-manual-foot-lift-extension-lever

Not sure what you mean with moving the needle... Loops on top or bottom is usually a tension problem or you have a problem with your thread path or parts that put tension to the thread. Can you post some pictures of your machine and how you have threaded the machine? I´d also check the paddle shaped check spring on the needle bar if it is worn (grove of inside of the paddle end). Guessing you already have a manual, if not I attach one here. Manual Singer 29K62.pdf

You have to post pictures for identifying the machine.

2nd what Wiz said! Are you using a knee lifter or foot pedal for lifting the presser foot and you probably have the foot on the pedal or you are pushing the knee against the knee lift lever ever so slightly? If so this could cause a permanent top tension release and you get a "bird nest" on the bottom side of the material.

Very nice! Still wondering what the "original issue" was - or is. Anyway - as long as it works for you this way its a good solution. Well done!

I think with speed governor you mean what I called accelerator unit - the small squared box with the white plastic lid and the small lever on the outside. When you open it (3 screws) you see a small black lever and I think it is too far away from the hall sensor - the small black thingy with 3 poles which is soldered on a small green board. You probably have to play with the position of this black lever.