Constabulary

looks like the machine has not been used extensively. Since this is the latest model of the Class 30 with "squared casting" I would not expect serious issues or lots of wear but of course - you never know.

The 332 needle has 2 grooves , the long has to face left and the short to the right. You can also use 135x17 needles - same here but the 135x17 (or 135x16 for leather) has a so called scarf which has to face right (towards the hook).

If it helps - I have 2 used OEM Dürkopp with PN 249400. One is complete with spring and 2 screws the other has no screws and no spring. Don´t know how good they are but you can have them for free - I just ask for shipping costs.

Major different is the gearbox and thread lever regulator other than that ... what Jimi said Maybe the attached file already works for you. I have another 29K71 - 73 manual / parts list but I cannot compress it enough for uploading. Parts singer 29K71.pdf EDIT: this is the other one - I uploaded it already: https://leatherworker.net/forum/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=142508

The thinner the material the better it usually works for binding edges. There was a special binding attachment for leather strips for the Adler 4 / 5 and Singer 45K but I think its tricky to work with. I have attached a picture from an old Adler manual. I remember LW member JIMI (pretty sure he will jump in ere soon) has shown this a while ago but I have to look for his post. Or how about thin faux leather strips for binding edges? https://www.etsy.com/listing/624163856/38-12-34-oder-1-double-folded-vegan?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=faux+leather+strip&ref=sr_gallery-1-2 https://www.amazon.co.uk/Neotrims-Faux-Leather-Leatherette-25mm-2-5yards/dp/B01DPTXW7U MacCulloch & Wallis has a wide rangeof edge binding materials: https://www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk/c/750/bindings-leather-trims?p=1&q=750&sz=96&me=sz

I guess machines based on the Singer 153 should have the same gears, like Seiko CW-8 or Cowboy CB227R / Consew 227 and similar. Check with Toledo Sewing Machines in OH or Keystone Sewing Machines in PA - pretty sure they can help you.

Not sure if it helps but for the Singer 45K and Adler 4 / 5 there were certain feet for sewing this kind of belt. A while ago I posted it somewhere else... let me check... EDIT: found it but you most likely cannot sew the round tips with them

Look at the pictures - this could end as a real bargain! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-INDUSTRIAL-1-SINGER-WALKING-FOT-INDUSTRIAL-SEWING-MACHINE/333260772849?hash=item4d97e3d5f1:g:LCUAAOSwmvBdIy7d

that probably explains why I´m kind of "Singer crazy" though I live in the country of Pfaff and Adler

Indeed! I found 2 or 3 vintage Singers I would be interested in

Agree what kgg said AND you have not pulled the thread over the small hook (prong) in the tension unit - see this Video. I mentioned the small hook in my post from June 27th.

Just found this feet on Ebay. Seems seller will ship to the UK https://www.ebay.de/itm/Nahfuse-fur-Adler-4-5-Schuster-Sattler-Nahmaschine/323772077367

machine should be the same as the 29K4 and the like. I only have this quite poor manual. Singer 29K4 Manual.pdf There are a lot of 29K models (different subclasses) and there are several differences. Yours seems to be from the early 1900´s. Most available parts are for the late models and not all are compatible with your very early 29K. There are are a few parts that universal fit (not many) and some can be modified to fit. You f.i. can buy 29K parts from College Sewing in the UK or Ebay.com. Machine looks quite complete so what parts do you actually need.

Why should it be modified? I don´t think someone would retrofit a patcher machine with a different gear box. Regarding pinions - there are at least 3 different sizes of pinions among the 29 / 29K series but I think at least 4 different gear boxes. Your machine appears to be a very early one made somewhere between 1900 and and early 1920´s or so. Please post some pictures if you don´t mind.

This sounds very strange and I don´t know what a Singer 519 is so just to clarify: Moving backwards in your case means the material is feeding towards you when the lever is down and you turn the hand wheel towards you and it is feeding away from you when the lever is up and you turn the hand wheel towards you. Is this what happens? I know question may sound stupid but you never know...

is it just feeding or is it permanently sewing backwards? If it is just feeding backwards and the stitch length lever is in correct forward position it could be a motor failure.

Singer 29K in best case have a 5mm stitch length but rather expect 3-4mm. These are repair machines and not really production machines. If you do repairs on shoes or bag or other items they are very handy to have. Funny machine for sewing smaller odds and ends and nick nacks but forget this machine for serious leather work. 133K8 / 17 machines I would consider as heavy upholstery type machines. However Singer describes them in their parts list as suitable for "general leather work" - what ever that means. I would say plain or flat leather work. These machines have a very large capacity rotary hook and can handle quite thick thread and needles (but depends how they are set up). Availability of presser feet for this machine is quite limited. The majority of feet you find are just piping feet. I have a 132K6 (flat bed version of the 133K8) and I can get 12mm materiel under the foot w/o problems but I have not sewn 12mm leather with it but I have sewn 12mm felt. The 133K / 132K have a rather lightweight hand wheel considering the overall size of the machine. Machines like Singer 45K have a much much heavier hand wheel = more punching power due to the rotating mass. So if you need a good punching power you probably have to add a speed reducer and servo motor with small pulley if you want do heavy leather work with heavy thread and thick needles. Also - this machine has no reverse (if that matters). Parts situation is very good because SEIKO SK-2B and Mitsubishi DY253 are very similar machines and are still in production. Both are flat bed machines but share a lot of head parts with the 132K8 cylinder arm machine. Best advise always is to test the machine before you buy it especially when you do not have much experience with sewing machines.

Bargain Sewing Machines in the UK once sold table mount bobbin winder for the barrel type bobbins on Ebay and Amazon. https://www.amazon.de/Bobbin-Winder-Bullet-205-Industrie-N%C3%A4hmaschinen/dp/B077638XPY https://picclick.co.uk/BOBBIN-WINDER-FOR-BULLET-BOBBINS-ADLER-Industrial-Sewing-272977530963.html Their website is gone but maybe you can contact them through Ebay. Singer and Adler produced feet for these jump foot machines. They are very hard to find. Unfortunately there are no after market feet for this machine.

Solar leather once posted this hand control solution: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RGu4gHkw6Mg

I never understood why someone would like to hand crank a heavy duty machine when electricity is available or health reasons make it impossible or you don´t live out in the boonies. Space is no "proper" reason in my opinion. You can make space saving solutions even with servo motors and speed reducer. Sewing proper straight lines must be a pain with must 1 hand on the material. Or what am I missing? This was my solution but you for sure can build narrower stands with smaller pedals (scroll down to the end) EDIT: I tried the heavy treadles (as for the 45K´s) a few times - did not like it at all. The control and torque at slow speed is not nearly as good as with servo + speed reducer. These treadles may be nice for display of historical reasons but not relay comfortable in a daily use (from a nowadays view).

No offense but you should have posted more detailed pictures of your machine from the start so we probably could have seen if something is wrong on the machine. Seeing the "whole picture" can lead to faster and better evaluations / solutions. The Singer 111 needle bar works on your 239. College Sewing has them https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/store/240498-NEEDLE-BAR-SINGER-COMPLETE If you replace the whole bar you already know where you can find spare thread guides or screws if you need them in the future. Better order a few spare needle screws too. If you loose them on a carpet you never find them again - guess how I know! See items description for spare parts numbers. Thread shredding often is caused by needle / hook timing issues. sometimes it helps lowering or rising the needle bar just a tiny bit - even when you followed the values from the manual. EDIT: It also could be the needle hook distance. If the needle is too far away form the hook tip thread could be shredded. There also is a bobbin case opener that needs attention if not properly adjusted thread could hang on it and break. Or in worst case a combination of all this. Can you post a short video with open bobbin cover while sewing (slow hand cranking if possible) and the thread shredding happens? Maybe we can see something...

I also added a thread holder I found on Ebay a while back. I also figured when you remove the silver limiter which is mounted to the stitch length lever and grind down the feed dog a bit on the backside you can achieve almost 5mm / 5SPI stitch length - original stitch length was approx 3.2mm The paint once again is VHT crackle / wrinkle paint

some more

And this is what it looks now

I picked up this machine ~10 ago in Munich. No idea what this machine could do or not or if it will suit my need at all. You barely find information on the 51W machines and especially not on 51WSV2 (Special Variant) - I mean stitch length and so forth... However, I did a lot of research and figured there are 2 different 51W post bed models. Mine is the earlier one based on a Wheeler & Wilson N12 (as it seems). I found a picture on Alex Askaroff´s website (scroll down). The later models (made after 1938 as it seems ) are more Singerish than the W&W based 51W model and have a different tension unit, stitch length adjuster, thread lever moved to the front... and so forth. Lots of features you also find on other Singer models like 108W, 107W and so forth. So what I have is the earlier model. On the back side you still can see the cam for the trimming device which was mounted on the top of the machine head. https://sewalot.com/wheeler%20&%20wilson%20sewing%20machines.htm Singer took over W&W in 1905 and even produced some W&W machines 1:1 but with Singer label. That probably explains the short serial number w/o prefix - I guess Singer produced some SV machines with from existing (already cast?) W&W parts - this is a wild guess, I know. Anyway - machine was badly gummed and VERY dirty inside - sorry I did not take pictures. I figured it uses an odd needle system 128x2 / 128x3 (short needle with thin shaft) so thats nothing I could use. The NB also has an odd cut out and seems someone already "bubbaed around" on it's not functional att all So I robbed a needle bar from my old Singer 111D which rests on a shelf for some years already and - surprise surprise - the needle bar is pretty much the same so I now can use 135x17 needles - downside is the 111D needle bar is shorter. It works but I have to install a extra guide (have to figure how to do this - already have an idea). Next think is the presser foot bar - looks like it can accommodate 111 type needle feed presser feet or 107w presser feet - but thats a bummer too cause the 51W presser foot bar and feet are slightly different... Next idea - I take the PF bar from the 111D and - surprise surprise #2 - it perfectly works and fits and now I can use wide spread 111 needle feed feet and similar. But I decided to try a PF bar with fixed roller foot I once bought "in wise foresight" cheap on ebay a while ago and it also works perfect. Next thing was the badly worn hook and bobbin case (0.5mm horizontal and vertical play ) The machine already has a rotary hook but without bobbin case opener (later 51W models have a bobbin case opener). So I removed the hook from the machine and figured it has the exact same mounting as the Singer 136w / 153w hooks which are the same as some of the Durkopp hooks I have in my parts box - so I installed one and - holly crap - it works perfect even though the Durkopp hooks where meant for using with a bobbin case opener but seems it does not matter in this case . But -belive it or not I found a source for an original new hook but they ask $80 + shipping (+ EU VAT and import tax) to I will keep the Durkopp hook - good think is I now can use the bobbins of my 111 and 212 in this machine and don´t have to stock different bobbin types. So - lot of words... here are some pictures. I know most would have kept the original decals but they aren ot as nice as they seem and I personally do not like the Singer floral design very much... This is what I have found: