Constabulary

yeah - to me it looks like based on the Singer 300W but too many variants out there to know all details: https://www.google.com/search?q=singer+300w+long+arm+sewing&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiVnYzS6r3kAhUH6KQKHUVsBjIQ_AUIEygC&biw=1280&bih=869

What machine do you have? The one in the picture seems to be a Pfaff double needle walking foot machine with tape guide. What you are looking for is called GAUGE SET and depends on your type of machine and tape width / needle distance Maybe these folks have what yuo need: http://www.khsew.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=208_209

its not a Durkopp - its a Singer - guess how I know Looks like a 29-1 or so - there should be a oval data plate on the right side. Worth? Between 50 and 500 - depends on condition, accessories, stitch length, machine stand, has it a motor or not and your local market. However from this picture it looks like an unloved barn find. If you want to upload multiple pictures you have to reduce the size.

a few more & larger / close up pictures would be nice. From what I see I would guess it is a 5 needle chain stitch machine. Probably something Singer 300w 'ish

The 45K89 is a jump foot machine - drop feed presser feet do not work for this machine

Singer (to my best knowledge) only equipped their 45K machines with a very simple flip type bobbin winder. However - they are very hard to find as spares up to nearly unobtainable. But I have seen one on Etsy for crazy money https://www.etsy.com/de/listing/622230555/sanger-45k-industrie-nahmaschine-spule Not worth the money in my opinion but if you are in need of these parts you probably have to pay the price. What I have is a spare automatic bobbin winder from a CLAES machine but it is lacking the mounting base so thats what you have to DIY. Its not a too big task but depends on your DIY skills and if you have the tools. I´m using one of these winders for my DIY electric bobbin winder. Maybe a solution for you. Here are some pictures of the actual winder I could offer you. last pic shows a similar one mounted to a machine. So basically you have to make a sturdy L-shaped bracket for the winder for fit your machine. And you may need some sort of thread guide on top of your machine which guides the thread to the bobbin winder.

Thanks a lot Glenn. Parts update: These screws for the needle plates also work for the early 51W. Stocking a few spare screws can´t be wrong https://www.ebay.de/itm/143152157578

45K´s are very forgiving machines - I have restored one thats came in a lot of machines that were used as garden decorations for some years. It was rusty and has been brushed with black paint again but after cleaning it thoroughly it turned out as a really nice machine and tolerances are still very tight! If you need new slide plate (left of needle plate) and mounting plate (right of needle plate) the ones from the Singer 132K are the same and can be found at College Sewing - JFTC they are badly rusted. https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/parts-by-machine/singer-sewing-machine-parts/singer-132b-132k-133k-parts I also still have a bunch of 45K parts from my restorations so if you need something drop me a note. EDIT: I would not necessarily dunk the whole in Diesel first. If the mechanics is seized I would drip some solvent (maybe diesel but I prefer paint thinner) in oil holes and mechanical parts. Also a tub of hot washing soda solution also may free the machines (not kidding it worked for me) and also solvates old gun too (old gunk on sewing machines prats that looks like rust often is just dried oil / grease and dirt) If you want to remove the external paint and rust I would try electrolysis (DIY) Electrolysis also may break free the mechanics and you can re-use the washing soda solution. I did that on a 29K1 head a while ago - it really worked very well but takes some time.

Don't expect too many information from a 45K manual - the information in manuals of the 45K class are rather basic. This is not for the 45K25 but the other 45K manual give pretty much the same information. If you have technical problems please post some pictures of your machine and give some more details of what wrong with the machine. Here is a PDF of a basic manual for the 45K class. 45K Manual.pdf

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Also, if your 545 has a double leaf spring remove one spring. Often just 1 spring is enough - just check and play with the settings.

Above your last post I have linked to my 51W restoration thread. I have linked to feed dog / needle plate sets that fit my machine - however they may need modification and I´m using a non standard hook so things may be a bit different on my machine than on your machine. I guess my machine is older because I do not have a W suffix Singer Serial number. Looks like mine still has a Wheeler & Wilson serial number but I don´t know for sure. I also have posted a few pictures of the thread path (see above link). The original needle system was 128x2 / 128x3 (short needle with thin shaft) but I have changed out the needle bar (which was kind of bubba'ed). I took a NB from a Singer 111w needle feed machine (not the same as for 111w walking foot machines) so I had to modify my machine with a needle bar guide on the top end. Thant's probably not your cup of tea and you may want to use the original needle system. The round part that is missing on the face plate most likely was a piece of felt that served as a thread oiler. Would be nice if you could pots pictures from front and back just for documentation because there is very little known about this early 51W model. EDIT: If your machine has the same rotary hook with caped bobbin basket just as my machine had then these bobbins should fit: https://www.ebay.com/itm/162656003877

Hand cranking on this particular machine (one of the very early 29´s) will not be too much fun since you do not have a front hand wheel. I would not necessarily buy this machine because of the parts situation but It may depend on whats available on your local market and your budget. However if it produces stitches of 4mm or longer its a good score. Personally I would recommend a Singer 29K with 50, 60 or 70 subclass. Best would be a 70´s subclass (like 29K71) because the higher the subclass number the more likely it is to get parts for it . Especially gear box parts which are critical - even 50´s, 60´s subclass are critical when it comes to gear box parts. Download a manual and read it or print it an take it with you when you check out the machine. You at least should know how to adjust the stitch length and how to thread it. Make sure the shuttle hook and the long leave spring on the backside are present

I meant: cannot move the hook to the right (cannot alter the post) I also have ordered a slide plate / cover for the hook from College Sewing part number is 221215. It also works fro the early 51w model. Original slide plate is a lot nicer because it is full metal and the new one is just stamped sheet metal but it works. I will try fo fit a binder attachment to the new plate (just for playing around a bit). This is the OEM W&W foot and needle bar in comparison with the Singer parts (W&W to the right - Singer to the left). So you can well see where Singer got the idea of the 111w / 107w (f.i.) feet from. Unfortunately they are not interchangeable (screw holes do not line up) so I switched to the Singer NB so now I could use all the 111w needle feed feet and 107w feet. But as mentioned above atm I have installed a NB with roller foot. I will add a Singer decal when the machine is fully set up. If you mean the floral design - well that's not what I really like.

Quick update - above mentioned hook has arrived - it fits but the hook tip is touching the needle and I cannot move the hook to the left. So the GEH-820 hook does not really work for my 51WSV2. So back to the Durkopp hook.

What kind of help do you need? Please post pictures of your machine. I just recently bought an early model 51WSV2 myself - not yet setup with table and motor but functional already. I have replaced several parts incl. presser foot bar so now I can use Singer 111w (needle feed) and 107w type presser feet. I also changed the hook and needle bar so I now can use 135x17 needles. I also figured you can use needle plates and feed dogs from "up to date" post bed machines. This is mine: https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/86292-siger-51w-sv-2-post-bed-machine-restoration/

I´d switch to a different needle system check this:

The brother seems to be similar to the Consew 206RB. The Singer has no reverse - if it had reverse I would choose the Singer. Do not expect that upholstery type machines can all handle 207 thread - some (not all or rather a few) may handle 207 thread but most likely they have been tweaked in one or the other way once in their life. 138 is what most upholstery type machines can handle w/o problems.

Do you have a manual for your machine? If not google it - download it - read it. Make sure your thread path is correct - I do not see where your top thread is coming from. I doubt the shuttle is the problem but cannot evaluate the details w/o having it in my hands. If top tension is to high just shorten the to tension spring by 1 or 2 coils. These springs are interchangeable with Singer 29K springs so not a big loss if it goes wrong (for what ever reason). If you still need a quality shuttle look for TOWA made shuttles - check with your preferred dealer or Ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/390524809518 In my opinion TOWA shuttles are the best quality shuttles beside the OEM shuttles. That said - the nicest I ever have seen are the old OEM Singer shuttles. I was lucky to find one in new coition a while ago - haven´t seen anything nicer than this. It looks like chrome finished. However - TOWA relay is excellent.

If the old grease or oil is gummed apply heat with a heat gun. I also had success with paint thinner (don´t do both at the same time)

I know I had one but I cannot find it atm - sorry! my BUSMC machines (A1 + #6HM) are one - its a bit a pity but I have space issues and my main focus is on Singer machines though I would love to have / try out a BUSMC PILOT one day.

In many cases the machines just differ in small details you would not notice at a first glance. it is often just the feed dogs and needle plates that differ - f.i. - feed dog has coarse teeth instead of fine teeth for better feeding of heavier materials. And the needle plate just has a larger size needle hole to run larger size needles and so forth - that could be the difference for "heavier material". Or machines have a roller foot instead of plain presser foot or are furnished for edge binding operations. Or a different foot lift lever gives the machine a slightly higher foot lift. There are may small details that COULD be different. And keep in mind even when Industrial machines with different subclasses look the same and have the same needle plate and feed dog (f.i.) you never know if one of the former owners / users or even a dealer has changed out parts or altered some settings or not. So sometimes you really can´t tell the difference between subclasses by just looking at the machine. At Singer 29K machines the presence of an oil / wax cups (for sewing with waxes thread) puts it into another subclass but the rest of the machine is still the same. But a lot of people retro fit a oil / wax so the machine name plate still has the subclass of a machines w/o the oil / wax cup.... You know what I mean?

Thanks a lot - glad you like it! I no longer own this machine. It was a lot of work but it really was an interesting project. Especially because of the special hook / shuttle system. I still don´t know why this machine produced a 8.5mm stich length - it really is / was amazing!

The treadle stand actually is an ADLER 30 stand. There was a motor mount for this stand. I never owned one but have a few pictures. maybe it gives you an idea for a DIY mount or so. When you have a FS550 motor you can mount it on the underside and the drive belt goes from the motor pulley to the large pulley on the stand. When you are buying a servo motor similar to the JACK JK-513A you also can mount the motor upside down on top of the motor mount (or bolt the motor directly to lower the machine body) and mount the accelerator unit underneath the mount. This way you can leave out the heavy pulley. Just wanted to give you another idea... Choice is yours

Sometimes the hand wheel is too tight (pressing against the machine body). The hand wheel usually has 2 set screws and one screw on the shaft end. Loosen them all a little bit and move the hand wheel an bit to the right. Then tighten all screws but be careful with the one on the shafts end - this is often the one that s too tight! If your machine has a needle positioner you most likely have to remove it from the shaft first.