Constabulary

don´t know who typed it - must be decades old. I once found it in a lot of manuals I bought. You may need the "old" parts list (with old Pfaff parts numbers) to understand what parts they mean. I have an old 145 parts list but its too big to attach - if you need it send me a PM so I can forward it by Email.

sometimes its helpful to show a picture of the part because most people do not know the long Singer nomenclatures and parts number by heart and I´m sure just very few will check the parts lists - if at all. You for sure have to check with a dealer for this part - maybe Keystone Sewing Machines in PA or Toledo Sewing Machines in OH can help you with this.

Rather a Consew 227 - maybe seller mistyped...

30-1 most likely - small hook short needle. You can tell from the position of the arm lever pivot pin that it has a short needle (pivot point on the right = Adler 30-7 / 30-5, pivot point on the left Adler 30-1 / 30-3) plus it has no raised housing and and on the last picture you see a pice of the hook - its a small hook. 30-1 small hook, short needle 30-3 large hook, short needle 30-5 small hook, long needle 30-7 large hook, long needle It´s a light greenish hammertone paint. BTW - foot lift lever is broken off, needle plate holes are very worn.

I don´t think the shaft is stainless steel. I haven´t pulled a top shaft yet and cannot support here but you at least have to remove all gears and all parts attached to the top shaft. I have a disassembling / assembling instruction for the Pfaff 145 - maybe it helps you a bit - the head is "quite" similar. I have sent you the parts lists I have - I hope they help a bit. Dismantling Pfaff 145.PDF

Damn - thats bullshit! Shipping a sewing machine from an "unexperienced" seller (in terms of shipping) is a 50/50 risk . I would always remove the hand wheel form the machine when shipping it or support the machine with styrofoam the way the hand wheel is free. And you at least need 1.5" styrofoam on each side (more is better) of the machine + it has to be packed real tight! I have a parts list for a "new and old" 193. I´ll send them by email. Pfaff once changed their parts numbers - what I have observed is that the old part number is part of the new part number meaning they added some digits as prefix and some digits as suffix. The old number of the arm shaft is 10002 - the new number is 91-0100 002-05 College Sewing seems to have the shaft - seems this is the one but better check with them: https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/store/9101000205000-ARM-SHAFT-GENUINE-PFAFF German dealers might be cheaper but my experience is (ordered Pfaff parts once and requested prices from 10-12 different dealers) that CS necessarily is NOT the most expensive. Prices from German dealers varied by more than 100%.

regrading shuttle carrier: #1 is Singer 82117 for 29K71 / K73 #2 is Singer 8605 for 29K1, K3, K4 and the like They could fit but the screw holes tell a different story - pretty obvious, right? But this is just what I have and what I can compare and I don´t know if there have been other differences over the years... I don´t know the whole Singer patcher (and parts) story, I just scratched the surface. Let me check some measures again... EDIT: okay - checked another 8605 shuttle carrier I have - the holes are approx the same as with the 82117 - approx 7mm from the rim to the center of the hole Seems the 8605 I have shown in the picture above is modified (for what ever reason). But still - if I had a worn out patcher like yours I would not spend time an money - sorry to say that!

Do not expect that any of the parts from College (Sewing) will fit for the century old patchers gear box - neither pinions, nor racks are the same - different size and different teeth pattern - the parts do not work! You remove the parts from the underside. There is a plate that covers the gear box and serves as a bushing for the 2 pinions. To give you a rough idea how the different pinions look #1 is for 29K1 - 29K33 (approx) #2 is for 29K51 - 29K56 (approx) #3 is for 29K60 - 2973 (approx) #1 is what you need and #3 is what the Chinese 29K71-29K73 clones have and you get from College sewing. Shuttle carriers look the same but have screw holes in different positions. Honestly - rip apart you patcher and look for a better one and keep some spare parts. It´s just not worth the time and money when a century old patcher is as badly worn as yours is. Sad but true. If you want to give it a try go ahead but don´t expect too much. When a gearbox is worn out like yours guess how the condition of all the rollers and and cams are (machine 4 different rollers and 3 cams) - not to mention all the other parts

Well, you can do a rain dance and wait until the pin is rusted away or you hammer it out Of course you have to hammer it out - its a pin! When the needle is in the material and it starts feeding you don´t have many options - the pulley cam is controlling the needle bar and if you want to solve this you have to reposition the cam (that's what I would try) Unfortunately no one knows what the previous owner did with this machine so we all can only guess (just wrong cam position or installed different cam... we all do not know). If you drive out the pin be careful the pin is tapered it will go out only one way (as Carlosveiga mentioned already) . One end of the pin is smaller than the other end - maybe hard to tell now since you have painted the machine already. Usually you do it the other way around - make the machine work and then paint it. I can´t help more - I explained the cam / needle bar position in an earlier post so it´s up to you if you give it a try or not. No one said it will be easy - a century old machine is not an easy task if parts are gummed or rusted in place and the paint doesn´t make it easier. We all can only give you our opinions... At the end it´s your machinate and you have to decide what you do or don´t do. You can try it or you leave the machine as is as a more or less decorative boat anchor. Good luck.

I still would guess (as I said in my earlier post - see below) that someone actually did a repair but put on the cam / pulley the wrong way (turned by 180°). Please check my earlier post.

If you consider the machine just as tools I would keep with white one (Asian made clone of the Singer 29K72 / K73 ) because parts are available, the other one looks live a very early 29K1 - 29K4 or the like - probably a century old and very few pats are available or just used parts for ridicules high prices. Keep in mind that the presser feet of these machines will leave marks on the top side of the leather - this is probably not what you want. I don´t think a patcher machine is the right machine for your work - they are designed as repair machines.

the foot lift lever is an early "push down" lever - modern lever do not fit. I only have seen this once - let me check if I find more pictures... you can ask a welder if he could weld a piece of metal on it to endlong the lever. EDIT: I once restored a 29K3 with push down lever. This it how it looks when correctly installed - sorry no other picture I recall it was a bit odd to install it but I do not recall what the problem was. So it could well be that your lever is the correct one - just broken.

@ Yetibelle When I look at your pictures it seems there is a wrong part on your machine - the "vibrating presser lifting lever" appears to be too long. I guess its from a different / earlier 29K model. See big red arrow I added. Or it is just the angle... not sure...

As I said almost all head parts are interchangeable (with head I mean the "cylinder" cast iron part which is attached with 4 screws to the body - not speaking of the machine body or gear box). Difference that I recall between K51 and K71 head is that the lifting lever on the K51 is pinned whereas the K71 is just clamped and the lifting lever adjusting lever is a bit different. You sometimes have to read a bit between the lines when it comes to 29K patchers... Reg. unavailable parts - the gear box parts (racks, pinions) of the 29K5x are no longer available - their pinions are a lot smaller (29K patchers had at least 3 different size gear box pinions - depending on the subclass). But I know someone who is planing to make new pinions for the 29K5x machines but that may still take some time... I fortunately have a few spare pinions for the 29K5x series but they are not for sale. The 29K patcher series have changed a lot over the years (or decades). If you want to buy a 29K patcher I would recommend the later models 29K70 - 29K73 because all parts are available (aftermarket made in China), followed by the 29K6x series (gear box parts are the same and just very minor difference in the overall parts compared to the 29K7x series) then followed by the 29K5x series because the "head parts" are almost identical with the 29K7x series. Other than that I would not really recommend buying a 29K model except it is really cheap and you do not have much expectations. But as always it depends on the overall condition... An early 29K can be nice too but it´s all about the wear parts - JFTC you need some - maybe - one day... This is just my opinion based on the availability of parts for a long term use of the machines.

29K3 has the leaf spring on the backside, the internal helical spring came out with the 29K5x series and all later 29K machines have this helical spring too and most of the head parts of the 29K5x and later ("up to date") 29K models are interchangeable.

I understood it the way that the feeding is the main problem at the moment not the loop forming / stitch building Yetibelle - yours looks like a 29K51 - the 29K3 is a bit different

Hard to tell w/o sitting in front of it and watching the stitch cycle. Well - when cranking the machine - in the moment the presser foot moves back (for making a new stitch) and touches the needle plate the needle bar should be in its lowest position and should start rising. If this is not the case it "could be" that the pulley cam is in wrong position on the top shaft. Beside that - I guess you have the stitch length adjuster on the longest stitch right? Make sure the stitch length adjuster is correctly assembled. The squared frame and the gib have a "wedge" which have to be in a positioned correctly. The wedges give the presser foot bar space for its movement (feeding). Also make sure foot lift mechanism on the backside is correctly assembled and foot pressure is adjusted as low as possible. Position of the foot lift slider on the leaf spring is also important. I would like to see a pictures of the backside if you don´t mind. BTW - very special color

Singer 18 - left stand version of the Singer 17. If it has no tag compare the parts list of the class 18 machines. The details will lead you to the subclass I guess.

You may need a heavier spring (old spring became weak over the time) and / or thicker brake pad or roughen the surface. Thats what comes to my mind first. Maybe to thick clutch pad material - maybe sand it down a bit... Hard to tell from a distance.

Holy crap - these are nice manuals You "Singer patcher idjits" out there - check the PDF in particular the BOOK 4 section regarding Singer 29K series patchers. I never expected to see an Army manual for Singer patchers - very cool find

Try a round point needle. It´s no that round point only can sew fabric. Thin leather often works fine with a round point needles. Or try S Point or DI Point needles See attachment - maybe it helps a bit finding the right needle SCHMETZ-14215_Leaflet-Schneidspitzen_GB-pdf.pdf

No dealer in Canada for pedestal stands? if you can´t find one modify a bench grinder stand.

I know those "technical" sewing machines are tempting to buy but these machines are meant to run in a industrial environments having a sewing machine technician checking them when ever needed. For sure interesting to have all the bell and whistles but often enough they cause problems due to their age and you barely find someone who is still be able to deal with motors like EFKA Vario Stop or Quick Rotan and the like. I have tried it twice and both motors went to the junk yard. If those motors have issues in my opinion it is really not worth the time and money. However - if everything is well tuned and running - then why not But personally I´m a low tech fan - I like machines I can repair with a "hammer and a nail". I (personally) would remove the entire motor and replace it with a new servo motor and maybe a speed reducer. I think on the long view this is a more trouble free solution. Beside that - 291 are for sure excellent machines but as you said parts are $$$ and hard to find. College sewing in the UK have some parts and I´m sure most DA dealers can supply you with parts. Hooks and presser feet are extremely expensive. My 2 cents

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The JUKI 563 is based on the Singer 111 - pretty much a well proven machine / machines series (for decades!). It´s same with all sewing machines - you can have trouble with a poorly adjusted new $1500 machine and you can have fun with a used well adjusted $500 machine everything in between is possible no matter if new or used. The best bet is to test sew the machine (no matter if new or used) with the needle thread and material you want to work with. The Singer 111 type machines (like Juki 563 and some others) are very well technically documented - especially here in the forum. Tons of information / videos on trouble shouting and so forth. I think you can´t go wrong with it if it is as you described but as I said before you never know until you have test sewn it.