Constabulary

You at least know the models you could look for. Servo motors come with different voltage you may find the same models with 220V / 240V but keep in mind 220V in the US is 3 phase not single phase as in the EU / NZ or other countries.

Thats actually and ADLER II or III - I had one of these - very cool and smooth machine it was but Yours even has the gear reduction! You also find them branded with CLAES, ATLAS or DROSSNER and other brands. I think I still have the copy of the German manual - let me check... EDIT - looks like an Adler II... later...

agree - I´d use a sticky synthetic chain lube on the open gears & gear boxes. I quit filling gear boxes with grease I only clean them and spray in sticky chain lube from time to time. No issues and seems some gears run a bit more silent with this stuff. It just works for me - everyone has his own "magic recipe" for lube & grease

It will not hurt running the machine w/o the cover - machines like Singer 111 or Dürkopp 239 have open gears to - that's not an issue at all. Personably I think open gears are even easier to service. Grease filled gear boxed in the hook area can be a "magnet" for lint, thread pieces or broken needle tips - not necessarily but I have found this stuff in gear boxes.

if you have tons of 16x257 and they have the same shaft diameter you can probably adjust the needle bar to make this needle system work - that's not unusual to do.

Just had a request where I found the flip up split needle assys - they are from Ebay and they are on sale right now: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=singer+flip+up&_sacat=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=singer+flip+up%3AvDAAAOSwI-BWL6GR%3Ark%3A1%3Apf%3A0 Just for the case someone else is looking too.

Hell, your OD UNIMOG in snow reminds me of Bosnia when we went to the firing range on Igman mountain during the winter... I had a 2to Flat bed UNIMOG with MSA (Modulare Schutzausstaung) with other words it was bullet proof. Men this throws me back in time I will check shipping options - I´ll send you a PM

I´ll check tomorrow and let you know. No matter the weight - shipping is included in the above price! However - as mentioned above shipping will cost a bit more now since the UPS voucher expired. But it will not cost a lot more I think. If you are interested I´ll check it again. The stand has approx 3 or 4 times the weight of the machine - I seriously doubt it will be economic to ship the stand to Canada. Not sure if I can put the stand on my scale at all but I`ll try. I would have to use a EURO pallet (120x80cm) as base for the crate because for moving the crate you need a fork lift and / or lifting cart so all that together (stand + machine + pallet + crate and so forth) weights A LOT! The crate is not the problem (technically) but the insurance / tracking is the problem. When I take paypal I have to ship insured with tracking and I don´t think a freight forwarder tracking is accepted by paypal so the risk is on my side and I cannot take it - so I´m sorry. I cannot afford losing the money so I rather don´t ship the stand. I can ship the machine head (as offered above) in a custom built crate by UPS incl. full tracking from the minute I bought the shipping label onward - that is no problem at all! But the stand is not possible to ship when I have to accept paypal. I just do not take the risk. Another option would be a Western Union Money Order but then the whole risk is on your side. Then I would do the work and crate the whole thing and ship by freight forwarder by sea freight. So that is up to you. Let me know. ==== EDIT: I packed sea freight containers when my unit moved back from Bosnia in 2001 (SFOR) so I pretty much know what I´m doing when I ship things over the pond

No - I just want to bother you Yes - it´s fro sale. I ´ll s end you a PM

I have this part - will post pictures in a few minutes EDIT: This is the complete lever w. spring and screw. Parts are original Singer - not after market / Chinese parts.

When you know you can live with 5mm stitches (I can) and the smaller bobbin keep the Seiko. I personally like these bullet proof "Singer based" sewing machines. They are easy to service (almost all aspects of this machine is covered with a PDF user guide or Service manual or a proper YT video) and parts and accessories are available almost everywhere and often cost a lot less than Pfaff parts (even after market parts). Personally I do not like built in bobbin winders. I prefer external ones. I´d most likely sell the Pfaff and buy 1 or 2 other machines that could be useful for you hobby or business. Just my personal "Singer crazy" & low tech loving opinion.

I would assume your V-belt and / or hand wheel is too tight. Just a guess w/o sitting in front of your machine. If you bought the machine from a dealer just check with the dealer. Where in Germany have you bought a Cobra 26?

You get a good motor overview on the KEYSEW website - they have all kind of motors from clutch motors and low end servo to high end servo: https://store.keysew.com/parts/industrial-sewing-machine-motors this one could probably be an option: https://store.keysew.com/sp-1100-npfl

880€? Thats a quite good price I´d say. I have no experience with "modern" machines but considering its a Mitsubishi clone (probably just rebranded?) and seems it has a higher class servo (not sure though) with 5 buttons for making settings... I´d say not a bad deal. Looks like 9mm stitch length Guessing this comes from a dealer, right?

Mitsubishi LU something clone I guess

On my side of the pond you find 3 different measures for V-belts - abbreviation are: LI, LW and LA LI = length inner side of the belt (German: Länge innnen) LW= datum length of the belt (not sure if this is the correct translation) (German: Wirklänge) LA= length outer side of the belt (A = außen = outer suide) (German: Länge außen) So there can be a difference, but not sure how the official measuring on your side of the pond is. Just wanted to give this as a hint.

It depends on the foot lift mechanism, some are push types, some are pull types and and some have a kind of bell crank lever installed on the underside of the flt bed where the roller pushes against (like my 307G2 Singer) So sometimes knee lifters come with a roller installed or a roller is installed on end of the lifter rod on the machine - they look like this.

I think we already talked about it a while ago but forgot about it. So the device replaces the hex screw, right? Internally I guess the "T handle" thing is spring loaded so that is stays in place while darning , right? Or does it "click" into a certain position? Can´t be too difficult to make if the Hex screw has a standard threading... will check that...

For $200 most likely not - the HoHsing are more expensive. I have no experience with higher class motors as I´m rather a low tech fan. Maybe their website gives you an idea of what their motors can do or not http://www.hohsing.com/index.php/en/ac-servo-motor-en

Don´t know what you mean - you have to post pictures - there are literately dozens if not hundreds of different motors on the market...

Guessing you mean the fuse, right? Or what else could pop? Suggestions: New fuse / new circuit breaker / new switch or new motor. If you know nothing about electricity ask someone who is qualified. Not kidding, I mean that!

if he can make them and they do work then let him make a few more (like 5 or 10) - I´m sure these parts could rescue some nice vintage Dürkopp patchers

I understand that these bells and whistle motors are tempting to have them up and running but trust me - they can be a pain if they need support. I have tried it twice some years ago - no luck. Honestly - get rid of it an buy a new Servo motor! I think the higher class HoShing Servos can control some of the "Bells & Whistles" if you really need them. If not buy a plain Servo motor + speed reducer from one of the well known dealers. Its most likely cheaper than buying (probably importing) some of the parts and question remains - will they run? I also haven´t yet heard of anyone who was able to "revitalize" these od electronic clunkers for reasonable money. If you run a factory it´s probably a different story but as a hobbyist or small business these things are dead and not worth investing time & money. My 2 cents

I haven´t darned anything yet I´m using ZZ for repairs. However, I think I will try my 34K for darning. I think for darning you need the momentum in that the presser foot is holding down the material or you have to put the material in a embroidery / darning frame (or what ever it is called). BTW - there was a darning attachment for Singer 29K and Adler 30 patcher machines - not sure if there ever has been one for CLAES patchers. AFAIK WIZ has one

the regulator spring is a 2 piece spring. Your pics show the inner spring but there is a 2nd outer spring - do you have the 2nd spring too or just the one you have shown?