Constabulary

This is what I did to lower the foot pedal bar when I installed 2" casters. The pedal bar is custom and originally belonged to a different stand.

hope this helps - can send more and take measures if you want.

I´ll post pictures later. During the restoration I have replaced mine with a NOS one and it has not seen much use since then.

okay so then it most likely is the slider that you have fixed too far right and / or in an odd angle and it is hanging on the casting - move the slider a bit to the left and check again I think thats it.

Yes, 105-65 with needle feed and bottom feed!

1.) I´d try is increasing the foot pressure. 2.) I´d check if the "hook nose end" #39 is hanging on the lower rim (see red arrow in 2nd picture) of the needle bar bushing if not this could be the problem. 3.) I´d check if the internal spring #41 is in place Hope this helps

I´m pretty sure it could (technically) but the largest needle you can find at most dealers is is 230 metric. Some may have larger needles but you barely find them on the "free market" meaning the WWW.

To my best knowledge - the large hook Juki / Seiko machines have a different hook saddles than the Singer 111 type machines - take a look at the parts lists. Changing the hook saddles is a lot of work (removing lower shaft, changing the saddle but back together everything and retime the machine...). That for sure costs good number of $$$ and time.

as always - it would be good to see pictures, Singer used different type of hinges.

The best synthetic thread I have used sofar is AMAN SERFIL / Synton (same thread AFAIK just renamed once) it runs so smoooth through any of my machines, love it! Other than that I like Gruschwitz GETAFIL P very much (I´m using 11/4 of this therad) - hellufa strong thread. I have not much use for such a strong thread however - it´s great! GRUSCHWITZ has some "technical threads" you might be interested in but I don´t know who supplies it / if it is supplied in the US. https://www.gruschwitz.com/en/products/standard-products.html

Wild idea I know but yours is wild too - how is this. put a good quality tight cardan joint on the hook drive shaft + a support bushing (if needed and you have enough space) and then you only alter the front bushing. Cardan has to be real tight otherwise if could affect the timing I guess. Ya know what I mean? Have to admit I don´t know how the 206 looks on the underside... Maybe it´s just an early morning brain fart EDIT Or is it what Bob mean with an angle? Then I better shut up

To my best knowledge: C: Needle plate hole 2.2mm L: for leather Leather M: don´t know N: max stitch length 6 mm. P: Special Equipment / Application (maybe pneumatic support or the like) I wrote it down once but don´t recall the source. I´m sure someone has a more complete subclass list.

You´re welcome

Download the Seiko SK8 manual from this thread - it gives you the instruction you need on Page 12. Great manual - lots of useful information!

Since it is a fix presser foot bar as it seems (no moving back and forth) you can in stall a roller foot. The original roller foot slid directly onto the foot bar and a clamp held it in place so you could adjust is in angle and hight. "The modern" Chinese made roller foot mounts on the squared end of the presser foot bar just as the standard presser foot (in fixed position) BTW - DO NOT buy the roller foot for a Singer 31 they do not fit. You most likely can install needle plate and feed dog of a Singer 45K but feed dog may need a modification. Original Adler parts are VERY expensive. Or a cheap alternative - try GA5-1 parts which are dirt cheap on Ebay - the GA5-1 is based on the Singer 45K and the 45K shares parts with the Adler 5. https://www.ebay.com/itm/142866070102 This is just a fraction of what OEM parts cost and worth giving it a try, I think. I think the feed dog may need a little bit of modification but If I were you I would try it. Just a suggestion EDIT: to give you an idea of what original Adler parts would cost: https://www.ebay.de/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=adler+5%2C105&_sacat=0

The 5-6 originally was set up for a roller presser foot. Not sure if some one probably altered the casting to make this needle plate fit. So If you don´t mind please post more pictures of the machine especially with removed needle plate.

Vintage post bed machines like Singer 51w, Singer 236G and the like often have a rather short stitch length of approx 8 SPI max. Just wanted to have it mentioned in case vintage machines are an option.

well, I´m on the other side of the pond but I remember Mark Rofini is in OR - he is restoring vintage machines too and I often find his website when looking for vintage Singer machines info: http://www.industrialsewmachine.com/

It depends on your expectations - you sometimes can find machines like Singer 45K or Adler 5, Adler 105 or the like for a "fair price" but they are for sure not as technically advanced as the CB4500 Wiz has linked too. These machines have been used for decades in the leather trade long before the heavy triple feed machines came out. For me these machines are by far not outdated - though they are not "the hottest shit" in the leather trade but for the above mentioned machines there was a great number of sewing devices and special presser feet for different applications. You will not find these presser feet for most of modern heavy duty compound feed / triple feed stitchers - maybe for the later models of Dürkopp-Adler as they always have supplied special devices for the leather trade but they are $$$ Some will say "but they mark the bottom side of the leather" due to the toothed feed dog - well thats what I mean with expectations - question is does it really bother you or your customers? When I look at the vintage miliary leather equipments or some vintage civilian or miliary holsters then I often see markings on the backside - seems no one bothered that. These markings are usually on the "far side of the moon" - so does it bother? It depends on you and / or the customers I´d say. Markings on the backside especially on the heavier leather equipment usually do not bother I´d say but as mentioned before - it depends. So in my opinion there is nothing wrong with vintage Singer 45K Adler 5, Adler 105 and the like - you just have to look around and watch there market. But most likely for $500 you will not find many heavy duty sewing machines. My 2 cents

Just found this making off video for a saddle pad - from min 6:10 on you see the sewing processes and the device / guide I meant. Hope this gives you an idea what kind of machines and sewing devices they are using BTW seems they are using a synchronized binder too - take a close look from min 7:10 on

Thats what I wanted to say but that was regarding the 2 needle machine for sewing the double tape top + bottom. I think a long arm machine makes it easier not maneuver large pieces like a saddle pad. Not saying standard machines do not work but the long arm for sure is more comfortable on the long view but for sure depends on the output you have. For outside edge binding a 145 most likely will work fine but you may need a table extension to the left. I think you will end up with at least 2 machines. I´m not a sewing machine professional. This is just what I think what works. I´d check with a dealer (not sure where on the West Coast you are) Thank you

Depends on the overall condition - would be nice to see some pictures. I think the 51W shares several parts with other Singer machines - thats the good thing on vintage Singers. So depends on what parts you´re looking for.

I know that - My issues started in 2006 when I did massive handwork for several weeks when I put a roof on the garage. Writs and arms hurt so bad I was not able to sleep for a few nights - not much problems during the day but at night it was a horror. Then I got a cortisone shots in each wrist - that cured it for a while but since then I live with it and when it gets really bad again (when I did lots of handwork again) I get C. shots again. And since then it never really stopped. Meanwhile I can live with it because I know when I did a lot of handwork I need a rest for a few days and then it comes down to "sufferable level" but I still feel it. So seems I need the surgery one day... Wondering if the surgery really does the trick - I´ll ask again in a few weeks! Thanks for sharing your experience!

for #3: I think the top and bottom tape are sewn with a double needle machine with 2 tape rolls / strands running trough a special application device / devices which guides the bottom tape and top tape. Top tape is running through a presser foot with a flat tubing or you have a attachment which guides the top tape to the presser foot - or both combined. Top tape roll could be mounted on top of the machine. I know there is a tape rack that mounts on the ridge of the machine where the oil port plug is screwed in. And a 2nd device is guiding the bottom tape (tape rack probably mounted underneath the table) and the machine sews them at once - if you know what I mean. You already mentioned Atlanta attachments - I think they can help you with this. A long arm double needle machine probably is what you want for this job. Not sure if a 145 can do this job "professionally" I know College sewing in the UK has some has a lot of sewing devices / folders on their website. Maybe you can put together what you need with their stock item - (I know you are in the US but maybe their stuff gives you some idea - I love browsing their catalog) LW Member ERIC hopefully jumps in here, he for sure knows more on this topic #2 don`t know if there are binder that do the job better that the other, important is that binder and biding material / tape play well together, if the tape is too thick for the binder it will not work properly. I yet haven't used a "fixed" binder (as the one you have linked) but I have used a Pfaff 345 with synchronized binder and currently using a Singer 108w20 for binding it also has a synchronized binder. The synchronized binders work very well and I´m using approx 0.8-1mm thick cotton tape most of the time. Synchronized binder are more versatile I´d say. #1: I have speed reducers on al my active machines - they really make sewing easier when you are not a professional seamstress. I only can recommend the combination of servo motor and speed reducer.

Not too expensive I think but depends on the overall condition, motor, accessories, missing parts... I heard there are a few... But I have learned to let go machines. 1st step for a cure? Naaaaa...