Constabulary

Very uncommon for a button press I think - common standards are either M6 or 1/4" / 0.635" I would either return the press or the tools - or both. I switched on my press from M6 to 1/4" because it seems to me the 1/4" is more common / you get more tools.

should be 6,35mm / 1/4" Depending on the press you sometimes can buy adapters. I have a Shaeffer / Scovill press and it has a M10 screw-in adapter. So I can use M6 or 1/4" tools EDIT: this guy has several adapters - not sure if they fit your press but he had one for mine https://tvt-web.de/Handpressen-und-Einsaetze/c1000253619_u8430_zfe1da35a-9517-44d6-bebf-8d5ed35e979a/

If someone needs an original cap - I still have 2 of them

sure - I understand - I don´t want to discuss this I just wanted to show you some options. Good luck. Try some German dealers https://www.ledermacher.de/ https://www.rickert-werkzeug.de/

I would guess it is because of Geoblocking - you have an IP address from an "unwanted country". F.I. I have no proper access to the Harborfreight website from my regular browsers (Chrome, FF, IE) due to my unwanted IP address I guess - the website looks scrambled and and is not usable. Try the TOR Browser and set your Exit Node (Exit country) to US - I think that solves the problem. However be careful what you are doing - If you don´t know the TOR Browser google what it can do and what the risk is. Sorry - I cannot explain it well enough in english so please google it. - OR - Try a VPN AddOn for your browser like winscribe (or similar) and set your country to US. Both works on my end with the Harborfreight website. The choice and risk for both options are on your side.

The 2nd foot is a hold down foot afaik - similar to the Singer 132K6. it is pressing down the material while the needle is penetrating the material and lifts when the material is feeding

the 20-4 is the one with a geared speed reducer (seems some gears the a gear support bracket are missing) but afaik the 20-7 is the one with the 2nd presser foot. But not I´m 100% sure. Maybe a combination of both features leads to another subclass.

what therad size exactly is this - have you mistyped? And what machine model are you using? Probably a problem with the thread path? Thread keeps hanging somewhere? Burr in needle eyed on on some thread guides? Too much thread tension (top and bottom)? Needle bar probably a tiny bit too high? Have you checked the needle hook timing? Needle insert correctly? Do you have a manual for the machine?

CLAES Patent Elastic or Colibri. Needle system should be System 81 or 88 depending on the hook size. You still can buy them. The modern CLAES 8346 are still using these needles systems. Could be that these old machines also came with 3 different shuttle / hook sizes - just as the later models RPX / 200 / 8345 /8346. To my best knowledge CLAES is still using the same shuttle / hook type today. But minor modifications maybe required if you want to use a new made hook in these old machines. Thats what CLAES once told me when I asked for Mod. 200 spare parts a while ago. I don´t know if it was the same with the Patent Elastic patchers but only the largest hook model (-3 or -30 subclass) is using the longer system 88 needles. The smaller hook models were using system 81 needles. I think LW Member SHOEPATCHER knows more and he probably has some spare parts.

Double needle post bed machines are a whole different story. We have been talking about flat bed machines. The gauge sets mentioned above do not fit for post bed machines as the feed dog and needle plates are different.

Probably increasing the operating foot lift will help EDIT: extract from the manual

one day... maybe...

When it comes to 2 needle machines Singer 212 / 112 based needle feed machines (like Consew, Seiko, Juki...) are the best / most economic choice for Hobbyists / small businesses because the gauge sets are cheap and available almost everywhere, even on Ebay. Adler & Pfaff are using different gauge sets and cost a lot more. For any needle distance you always need 4 parts: needle holder, needle plate, feed dog and presser foot or presser feet if you have a walking foot machine instead of "plain" needle feed machine College Sewing in the UK is a good source if you live in the EU: https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/industrial-sewing-machine-gauge-parts/ You can even convert the Singer 112 / 212 based machines in to split needle machines

153w (or better Consew 227R), 107w50, 97 (yes, the beast), 136w (if I can get it to 4mm stitches)...

And I wish I could pick up some vintage Singers models on your side of the pond

can you open a new thread and post some pictures

Thats how different things can be. Lots of folks on my side of the pond are not willing to drive 2 hours for a sewing machine. I have no problem with 4-5 hrs one way but thats my limit and it really must be worth the trip. I usually try to combine the trip and pick up something else or take a day off or visit a friend or so...

Wild guess w/o having seen your machine. Probably the stitch length adjuster assembled the wrong way. The squared frame and the gib have a "wedge" which have to be in a positioned correctly. The wedges give the presser foot bar space for its movement (feeding). Could also be that the parts are worn or damaged. I would also try to increase the foot pressure and clean and oil the machine and the involved parts thoroughly. A few pictures of your machine could probably help

Google search still does not work, it is still redirecting to the main forum site but not to the thread I wanted to go to.

check the needle / hook timing - often the needle bar is a little bit to high. W/o sitting in from of your machine - I would try lowering the needle bar by 0.5 - 1mm.

Agree with the hand wheel the 211 is not a candidate for a larger hand wheel. However - you do not find many walking foot sewing machines of this class for just $300. Even when you have to invest in a new servo motor and a speed reducer (you can also DIY a speed reducer) its still worth the money. If you do car upholstery and sew belts, guitar straps, wallets and stuff that is not thicker than approx 8-9mm with thread no thicker tan 138 then this is a good machine when properly set up. I have the 111G156 predecessor of the 212G156 and 212G141 2 needle / needle feed version of "your" machine. I cannot complain. But the decision is finally yours.

Okay - I just thought the fork piece with the slider inside (for needle bar) would probably limit the foot lift but that seems not to be the case. I have seen this on a Dürkopp 239 machine which has same walking foot mechanism. Can you push the foot lift lever over the flat side so that the slider rests on the levers "right angle" edge? Know what I mean? I can do that on my 111G156 and to me is seems the parts are all the same so I think it just has to do with the position of parts. I unfortunately have no procedure I could explain. I have setup my machine when I restored it an never had to touch or reset it ever since. Picture 1: 10mm foot lift Picture 2: 12mm foot lift

if not Dürkopp I would assume Christian Mansfeld (Leipzig) but I´m not sure.

I´m not professional either - not at all! This is my thread + odds & ends cobbler-cabinet-organizer. It originally wan mean for rubber heels. It´s not professional but I love it. Usually thread spools have a sticker on top of the spool or there is one on the bottom side with thread "size", length and manufacturer / supplier. Thread size is "calculated" by weight per meter or kilometer and not by visual thickness so it could well be that different thread sizes look the same.

problem could be the lifting lever (see picture - know what I mean?) or how the machine is set up - please post pictures (view from left side) with open face plate and foot lift lever up