Constabulary

2" could be a problem - 133K can handle 207 but diameter is wider, 45K can handle 207 as well but diameter is more than 3" Question is what do you want to sew and how thick is the material.

Cannot load another file into the above post so here is a parts list Pfaff 26 Parts.pdf

What is the problem with this machine - threading? You can use other manuals like Singer 31K or 96K for top threading. For bottom threading you can use the Singer 17 manual it also has a long beak shuttle (if threading is the problem) Here is a Pfaff 26 brochure if that helps. Prospekt Pfaff 26.pdf EDIT: subclass list: Pfaff 26 sub class.pdf

The Pfaff 26 is basically a Pfaff 34 with heavier hand wheel afaik. Some may have and long beak shuttle hook instead of CB hook - not sure about the subclasses. Let me check my records...

bobbin case most likely is Pfaff # 9076 - I think most drop feed Pfaff machines (and others) are using this type of bobbin case. Good luck with the machine! If you need parts (mainly used) - check Ebay Germany - if sellers do not ship overseas I can forward them if you want. Not a big deal.

Really - NM for bobbin cases? There is always someone who needs numbers for everything. Bobbin tension is no science and no one needs a table for this - there is just a freaking screw - turn it back and forth - done! Even as a novice it took me just e few trials to figure out how top and bottom tension works. its explained in all manuals I recall - even with pictures. Bottom tension as low as possible the rest is top tension and if you need a tighter stitch increase both by a 1/4 turn at a time until the know is balanced - done. You have to try it anyway so what is a NM number good for?

Maybe worth checking http://www.custom-metal.com/index.html

The blue color of the "professional" machines - in my opinion - was just marketing but I have no proof. Try to find a parts list of either machine and compare the parts numbers. That way you can find out the difference. But I don´t think there really is a major technical difference. Can´t help with the mfg year if ISMACS has no records. EX prefix is until 1965 / 66 afaik. My 29K71 serial # has an EY prefix and when I got the machine I found a stamped date on the gear box from 4 67 (no longer have the gear box as I found a nicer one) this is very unusual for these machines but I think it is close to the "real" Mfg date. So FA I guess is around late 1960´s

Try http://albest.com/

Does this work for you? https://mydhl.express.dhl/au/en/home.html#/getQuoteTab or - have you tried a shipping comparison like this? Don´t know how the comparison Co´s handle the custom things but maybe worth checking: https://www.comparecouriers.com.au/ https://au.interparcel.com/

custom fees and VAT are for sure the same but they may charge you some bucks for the custom paper work. Over here it's approx 10 - 12€ from DHL. Air freight is for sure more expensive but it is more convenient too - no driving to port, no broker (usually) no paper work... Just check with UPS or DHL Express how the import process works and what they charge and ask the seller if he can ship with them.

these parts are usually not branded so no one knows who made them and therefore its hardly possible to tell if the quality is good or not but since the parts are rather cheap (price wise) - why not giving it a try. Not much you can loose. or try ebay - same sellers I guess https://www.ebay.com/itm/162385595622

I don´t know why you (or they) choose shipping by vessel. Why not checking the DHL Express or UPS - they ship to your door and usually do the custom work when a commercial invoice is included - well at least on my side of the pond.

I described the small difference between 29K1 (and later) and 29K71 BCL here (follow the thread) https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/60554-29k1-pre-christmas-barn-find/?do=findComment&comment=390874 The 29K5x and 29K7x class have an almost identical head - the difference I recall is a pinned (+ set screw) "lifting lever shaft lever" (82081) on the 29K5x series whereas the 29K71 lever ( 82154) is just clamped an therefore adjustable so a higher foot lift can be achieved. I´m pretty confident that you can use the 29K7x BCL (82167) probably w/o any modification in you 29K53.

Glenn - I modified a BCL for a 29K71 for a 29K1 - worked w/o problem, NilonRigging did the same here. Kick me but I´m sure I once put a Singer 29K71 BCL in a Adler 30-1 a while ago. And if I recall correctly beside some moderate grinding I just needed the 2 Singer screws for attaching it (Adler 30 BCL have a different threading). When ever a 30 class crosses my way I will try it again and report back. But yes - Adler 30 part prices are nuts!

Thats a cool idea for a hand crank machine!!!!

and here is a parts list - but probably of a later model. Maybe you can ID the foot thingy from the parts list. Pfaff 138 Teileliste.pdf

can´t tell from the picture but seems not to have the double needle holder. I´m not sure but the 138 came with different diameter Needle bars afaik. Some bits on the 2nd tension unit are missing. Looks like a 1940´s - 1950´s machine. Any chance that you could ask for a close up pic of the foot and NB area and maybe of the knob in the middle of the arm - could be that this is a 6mm wide zig zag machine - which is rare! I attach an adjustment instruction for the 138 just in case... Adjustment Pfaff 138.pdf

Okay got it. So it depends on the point of view. However - I just wanted to show how "bad" a BCL can look like and even brazing would not make it useable. Bend it back? Yeah, could work but will it? Will you hit the right angle? You would not even notice this if you don´t have a BCL to compare with. I´d rather buy a new BCL before bitching with worn out parts. Just wanted to show this. Right one is the bent one. Left one is an almost perfect BCL.

Why not sticking with the new one? Or is it just for historical reasons? I have 1 or 2 brazed tip BCL´s as well but honestly I would rather buy a new one instead of reconditioning an old one. One day I figured that one of the used BCL has a different angle than the other ones - why that - bent? I have no idea and I do not recall where it came from (drawer find?). Maybe I can post pictures later. So since then when ever I have to replace a BCL (well, not too often really) I better buy a new one so I'm sure it is straight. They are not too expensive in comparisons with the time you spent for brazing and filing (measuring, filing... measuring, filing....). And you can be sure the tip is symmetric. BTW - tip diameter is 5mm. My 2 cents.

I know the 115 from other Pfaff machines and that usually is a special double needle holder for sewing tucks (Biesen). The ones I know of could either hold 1 needle in the center or 2 needles left and right of the center needle hole and AFAIK they also need special needles of system 130B (round shank and 1.62mm diameter) - if I recall correctly. Please post some pictures of your machine.

Buy the 29K71 - all parts are available. The 29-4 is a funny decoration machine but nothing for daily work and just very few parts are available but not the important ones like gear box pinions (not made for decades). The 29-4 base is also missing the pedal. the 29K71 seems to be in great condition VS the 29-4 seems to be kind of a barn find. Don´t get me wrong - everything can be restored. 5 years I have restored a barn find patcher too but also have a 29K71 and trust me - the performance of the 29K71 is by far better than of the 29-4. They my look similar but the details are important. This was my barn find restoration: Earlier the same years I restored my 29K71 since then I have updated the patcher with some OEM Singer parts. If you need a proof of performance - this is my 29K71 sewing ~12mm webbing

is your machine already slowed down with a speed reducer?

Singer 108W20 should be possible to switch to a different needle system with same shank diameter (1.99 / 2mm), it just requires adjusting the needle bar. But I had issues with some sort of needles with a longer tip which were scratching the hook at correct timing. So that is a bit of trial an error. I´m still using 135x1 / DPx1 needles on the 108w20 until they are consumed - but that may take some time as I have plenty. The 47W66 seems to have the same needle system as my "1st pattern" 51w. Problem here is the needle bar - you need one that accommodates 2mm shank needles but it depends on the NB diameter and most important - the NB length!. My 51w had the same NB diameter as the Singer 111w needle feed machine (different NB as on the 111w triple feed / walking foot machines) so I thought - great - easy task but NOPE - NB was too short and I was not able to locate a longer NB so I had to install a longer upper NB guide bushing. But that required drilling / milling. I don´t know the length and diameter of the 47w NB so please post some pictures and measures. I guess the diameter is the same as on my 51w or 111w / 211w needle feed machines so it depends on the length. The 111 / 211 needle feed needle bar has parts # 240020 but you have to check if the length works for your machine and if the diameter is the same.

Agree with Bert! There is no tension release during the sewing cycle. The tension release is only required when you lift the foot lever and remove the material. As much as I like Harry´s videos but in this point he is wrong! The Singer 31 and 31K are the same 31 is US made 31K is UK made. The suffix K means Kilbowie, thats where the UK Singer plant was located once.