Constabulary

I don´t know the process in particular but in the German leather trade it is called "Bombieren" or "Bombierung" - this has nothing to do with "bombing" - of course. You often find the term Bobierung or Bombiert among male leather belts. Sample: http://www.mabel.de/gurtel/herrengurtel https://shop-hoffnung-berlin.de/index.php?route=information/information&information_id=9 The old Singer 45K and Adler 4 / 5 had a special presser foot for this kind of work I thinks there are belts with and without a padding layer between the top and bottom layer. I think the edges of the inner side of the top layer have been skived a little bit. Hope this helps.

Singer 111 right slide plate fits but is a bit shorter. I would look for a Singer 212 or 112 LEFT side slide plate and shorten it! The left slide plate of the 212 / 112 is longer since the 212 / 112 are double needle machines with 2 hooks so the left slide plate also has the indentation (right word?) on the backside for the hook. for instance: https://www.sewingpartsonline.com/slide-plate-singer-223853.aspx Below picture shows Dürkopp 241 plate and Singer 111 plate (left side) EDIT: I do not have spares - sorry

The Dürkopp 241 has several internal parts in common with the Singer 111 as well as the tension unit. I probably have a slide plate if not I can compare with a 111. I´l post the result later

Or "HALLER Hirschkleber" - not sure if it is international available : https://schuhbedarf.de/klebstoffe/klebstoff-dosen/haller-hirschkleber-innenkleber-lederkleber-das-original-600gr.-dose.html

well a triple feed machine that takes Singer 111 feet and 7mm stitch length (see knob) for 30 bucks is not too bad - if it is running. Looks a little bit like a 206R - or not? Maybe it is a NECCHI or so.. never seen this before.

there also SELARIS or FRANKEL stitching wax. Not sure where to get it on the continent but I think a Fiebings dealer should have FRANKELS. But nowadays most folks either use pre waxed thread (linen mostly) or polyester like SERAFIL so the wax pot often left unused.

Putting in my worthless 2 cents... There also is an esthetical aspect for using a speed reducer. I personally do not like the large or oversized pulleys (w/o the hand wheel rim) on a sewing machine - I find it kind of ugly - but thats just me. For me, when ever possible, a machine should look like as if it came from the factory. It´s like driving an AMC Pacer - it drives an takes you from A to B but its ugly and you have to look at it day in and day out. If you consider a sewing machine just as a tool for doing a certain job then there nothing wrong with a large pulley on a sewing machine but for me it would not be the way to go / to slow down the machine - just for optical reasons. If it´s all under the table its more "eye friendly " for me Don´t get me wrong - no offense to people who have large pulleys on they machines For instance - this thing would drive me nuts

we still don´t know what machine you have so we cannot make suggestions w/ know / seeing it. Please post pictures of your machine and the model / brand / name of the machine

Sometime it is better not to sell an item than to sell a crappy made item. However - can you post pictures of the hole thing + machine? What kind of machine is it? I never have seen a foot lifter in this position on a cylinder machine

150 for a complete gauge set is a bargain even for generic parts. You need a feed bog, throat plate, outside presser foot, inside presser foot and the needle holder with attached needle bar when needle holder and needle bar is 1 piece. Sometime needle bar and needle holder are split parts and you just need the needle holder - depends on what you have installed. When you changed the parts you have to adjust the 2 hook saddles and drive gears and adjust the needle and hook timing. Is it helps - the 145w shares the gauge sets with the Seiko JW-28BL and probably other machines too. Not sure if the Adler 221 has the same gauge set s but I think so. Hope this picture from an old Singer catalogue helps:

When I look at the gauge sets at College Sewing you could end up with $500 - $600 for a gauge set incl shipping and tax So depending on your needs, your project and the local market it would probably be cheaper when you buy a lets say used Singer 212 or similar with 3/8 gauge set. Gauge Sets for Singer 212 are dirt cheap - like $25 for a complete set. So maybe that's even an investment for the future. Just an idea w/o knowing what in particular you want to sew with the machine

If I had to choose I´d go with #3 + #5 #1 Singer 241 I guess #2 Juki 5550 I guess #3 Singer 211 #4 Singer 291 or 251 I guess #5 Singer 78 / Consew 128 I guess #6 Singer 31 / 31K I guess

Its a Asian made Singer 29K71 clone with minor differences. Assuming you will buy it used - I´d test sew the machine to see if it suits your needs. I don´t think there are many folks that have long term experience with this brand. It´s just another Asian brand. If you need a manual for testing here it is: Singer 29K71, 29K72, 29K73.pdf

sure - same procedure as on any other sewing machine with a belt pulley on the hand wheel. Guessing you have a clutch motor the new servo motor replaces the old clutch motor. You will find dozens of samples here in the forum - just do a quick google search

@dikman - thats a secret Singer technology only a few know of - its a self powered machine you can run it with plutonium but I have a hard time finding plutonium - have to check with the Russians . I´m about restoring the old clutch motor which really runs nice and smooth but not sure if I will install it here (but it´s just worth keeping), I think I will go with a JACK servo. Since I want to use the old motor mounting holes (1 left side , 2 right side - so just the other way around as on nowadays motor mounts ) and due to the speed reducer I have to make a extended motor mount to make room for the 2nd V-belt. Something like this... (stolen from Hot Rodders forum)

Some more

sooo - my 132K6 setup is almost done Finally found a plate (badly wanted a vintage one) - well rather a complete machine from I which I only needed the plate but the rest is nice too. However for my setup I only needed the plate. I restored a stand earlier this year (see above pictures). Plate was dirty and oily but a lot of paint thinner and sanding made it look nice again - still have a nice vintage look. Plate is really nice quality and also has these nice extensions on either end. This is the "donator" I had to modify the plate to accommodated the larger 132K flat bed + hinges. Some pictures - I don´t think I have to make a lot of words:

depends on if it has been treated or not. Untreated canvas can be re-dyed. The US military re-dyed a lot of webbing equipment after WWII (or probably late in the war already) from OD#3 (aka khaki) to OD#7 (aka olive green). If the canvas has been thread with stuff like CANVAK (waterproof treatment - feels waxy sometimes) or it is marked MRT (Mildew Resistant Treatment) you cannot dye it or the result will not turn out as expected. I heard sometimes that "light treated" canvas can be pretreated with clear vinegar so it takes the new dye better but I actually never tried this. Usually haversacks (if we are talking about M-1910 or M-1928 haversacks) are untreated. So a general statement is not possible - it depends...

try counter sunk allen screws or extent the mounting points with a piece of flat steel - if you know what I mean. Or even both combined.

Not knowing what machine you are using but I would first try to reduce the foot pressure.

what looks like rust could be dried / old oil too. I´d soak the entire machine is hot washing soda solution (if you have a tub of the right size) and and use a brush for cleaning - you will be surprised how much "gunk" is conning off. You have to dry blow the machine with compressed air and oil it afterwards otherwise it starts rusting and seizing up. I did that more than once - worked well for me. If you want to preserve the decals just soak the flat bed - hot soda solution may damage the decals. You probably have already found a Singer 112w manual but I attach it here again - the procedure for replacing the timing belt is mentioned in the manual too. 112W140.pdf

I can send you ca PDF copy of the original German manual. Send me a PM with your email address if you are interested. Machine is missing the pre tension / thread guide for the bobbin winder - or maybe it in the drawer. Machine has no reverse - but thats not a too big issue

and thats just one sample - I´m pretty sure we eat a lot of stuff we better don´t know of or the food industry / lobbyists makes us belief its "safe" to eat w/o knowing long term issues / side effects. But that`s all off topic

A few pictures would be nice - if he has a Singer 97 or probably other nice vintage Singers I would make a trip to Denmark. I haven´t been to Denmark yet so....