Red Cent

Interesting. I went on a search for info on the CB 3200 and found a YouTube video by Jess Jones. He does not thread it correctly. Cowboy Bob, you might want to watch the video. The error comes just after 4:15. Or is the post a trade off for the eyelet? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o3DSXBVBJkA The 3200 is a bit different to thread compared to the 4500 or the Cobra 4. The CB 4500 threads like the Cobra 4 except for the post with holes on top of the machine. I still think I can come up with 197 ways to thread the C4 and come up with like tension at the needle. I thread mine a bunch different than factory.

No matter where the presser foot is up or down, my discs separate almost imperceptibly. Cleanview's discs are awkwardly and unevenly separated wayyyyy too much. You could not make mine do that. However, looks like it sewing pretty decent. Just got back to the site. Cleanview, you can always count on these folks.

Colt, these work very well also. http://sewingnetwork.net/supply/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=265&zenid=8968622ecc863892ed47174839473b90 They are "zipper stops". I get mine from Zack White but I can't find them on the site.

http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=arbor+press&qpvt=arbor+press&FORM=IGRE#view=detail&id=C98B1F876154EF52608203C4D2CF293AABEEC3A9&selectedIndex=7

The C4 discs are together. The brake pedal will separate the discs (just barely) allowing you to pull thread. Yours is radically wrong. I just looked at my C4. I am going to say your bracket arm that separates the discs is bent. That arm should be centered between the discs when it moves over to separate the discs. Is the arm in that position without using the right pedal? Super wrong if it is. I was going to agree with TwinOaks, but if you look closer, the silver attachment is not interfering with the discs. That is the thead eyelet and it is not touching the discs.A closer look will show you the arm is bent and not doing its job. Please take another picture or two from different angles The 3200 has another tension point, I believe. Do you twist around and thread the post on top of the machine?

http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=swivel+knife&qpvt=swivel+knife&FORM=IGRE

Troy Burch, are you jerking somebody's chain:)?

Those with the bad backstitch, how far are you backstitching? I do 3 forward, back to the original hole, then forward. My C4 does very well for those amount of stitches. PS: Very nice work Allan.

Put that piece of leather in the sunshine and give it a beautiful tan. Seriously.

I use a wing divider. I mark the spot with a pencil, use the wing divider to establish center, place the punch over the mark made by the divider stem to make an impression, then use 1 ton hand press to punch the holes. Little involved but I have not had a "bad" hole for quite a while.

That's not a Monte Carlo. THIS is a Monte Carlo

I am working under the statements printed here and other forums. I am told that the tanning process removes a bunch of moisture from the hide. Seems sensible when you pick up an 8-9 ounce piece of veg tanned leather. The dye process continues to remove moisture from the hide. We all know that if you soak a piece of leather in alcohol and let it dry, you have made a club. I have applied NF before I dye and I have applied NF oil after I dye. I don't see any difference to the timing but I am a big believer that the finished hide needs some kind of good conditioner to permeate the hide and preserve the leather. Snubby, IMO, if any leather gets wet anywhere it will dry with a little added stiffness. A holster or sheath is not as susceptible to the process but anything that flexes will be. And it will crack. Much sooner than a conditioned piece of leather. Red Cent's Two Cent's.

I'm far from cheap. I am a member of the "he who dies with the most toys wins" club. Now about the alcohol thing. Seems like rubbing alcohol is working fine. Picked that tidbit either here or on Cas-City. Then started to hear about denatured alcohol. Knew what it was (kinda) but had to read up on it. I am a nut on researching. Seems that it is the same stuff. Almost. But I did not care for the results of thinned dye. And I did not like to dip dye. Maybe I would like the look if I used the good stuff. Any ways, I use a piece of bath towel with a modicum of full strength dye and rub. I rub and add dye until I get a solid color without being wet. Tennessee sour mash. Dickle is the favorite and Jack Daniels black is second. Jim Bean would be third. And you have one of my friends close by. If you get by Mernickle Custom Holsters, say Hi to Bob and Sherrie for me. Salud!

Thanks Malabar. Did you modify the center foot of that machine? Wondering how you turn corners without that stupid dimple showing on the edge (from the contoured foot). Never touched the center foot. Ever so often I will get the indentations (dimples?). What do you modify to do away with the dimple?

Whoa!!! Ambassador Oaks. I just noticed your post. Rude? I would think that the smiley would give reason to the statement/word as being facetious. Kangaroo time.

+2

I use 8-9 ounce for the outer and 5-6 ounce for the liner. Piece of cake with the C4. No welt.

Cleanview, on any end of line stitching, you can tie off. I tie off anytime I can hide the knot.

I glue the suede to the belt then, when dry, use my knife to trim as close as possible. Next is the belt sander. I square both edges then bevel the top edge. Mist the edges with water and burnish. With the right burnisher, the suede edge will blend right in with the belt edge.

I'm trying to picture using a beveler on 3/4 ounce leather. Would seem to work, maybe, if you glued it down. Or the beveler was razor sharp. I bevel 3/4 ounce but it is glued to 8/9 ounce. May I ask what are you making and the need to bevel?

It happens quite often. If the glue looks to be dry, place your fingers on the leather. If it is tacky and not messy, slap 'em together. If very little tack is apparent, coat 'em again. I apply the glue evenly but heavy the first time. Then I grab a heat gun. Move when the glue "pimples" or glazes over. "Is the cement being absorbed by the leather........"? Yep.

Stopped using welts. PITA. Easier to cut leather to fit and wet mold. Your holsters look very well done.

Very good start.

"...making a holster with a liner, but then after thinking about it more I decided to go with a full length filler." Serious question. What is a filler? Welt? "You might get away with 1/2" if your filler is the same thickness as the revolver." All of a sudden I am totally confused.

Over my head. Sorry.