johnv474

One approach is to make the back quite long, like a flap. It can then wrap around the entire case, sort of like a tool roll or big trucker wallet. Another approach is to make it with a third piece of leather that is stitched only around the edge.

These are sewn inside out, right?

To me, there is no noticeable difference in flexibility with Resolene.

Orange is too bright and rich. You need to get some of that intensity out. Dilute with Dye reducer or alcohol. If that doesnt get you far enough then set some aside and try mixing in a drop or two of blue or black dye.

That is normal. Many of the oils used in leather can spread/disperse/transfer when they are against something that is drier. It happens with commercial goods too. The typical suggestion (which definitely helps) is to use two coats of *diluted* Resolene--diluted 1:1 with water. You can also use a good waterproofer (liquid silicone waterproofers are often considered good) before the Resolene to possibly make it harder for fluids to enter/leave the leather.

Do you have a picture or some reference so we can get an idea of what exactly you want? Left as-is, my suggestion would be some gold shoe cream polish.

There is a guy locap to me that runs Howl and Hide Supply. They do a lot of canvas + leather projects, so that might be one option if you haven't found others. His site is easy to find.

The only guy I know who regularly tools truck bench seats charges about $5k, but you might have to wait because his work is in demand. His site is easy to find if you search for Misfit Skinny Kustoms. note: his work is not traditional Sheridan or Western carving. it tends to be more Native American/tattoo/Southwest and graffiti styles. I have met him but have am otherwise not connected. I dont know if could be done for that price range, but maybe if the design had a lot more open area, that would simpkify matters. If you want floral, etc., I'm not sure where to look.

Dies are pretty specialty high-precision machines parts, and are always somewhat expensive. sometimes distributors are cheaper than from the manufacturer. it is not uncommon for a setter die to be in the $50-120 range, more at retail prices. The good news is they have value when you are done with them.

Would a 13" diameter be enough? You can buy strips of soling leather that are approx 13" wide and about 18" long. I read that bucklers are up to 45 cm or 17 inch diameter. 13" is, of course, smaller, but might be big enough for your purpose. If that can work for you then let me know.

Tokonole is great but does not waterproof. It does make the edge slightly water-resistant. Part of this is because it contains wax, albeit a small amount. Adding more wax after helps. Paraffin or beeswax are easy and relatively cheap. My preferred sealer is acrylic resolene, diluted 1:1 with tap water.

Based on my experience, I would say that a person can take a smooth grain leather and create a nubuck-like nap with a belt sander. I have sanded leather with everything from 24 grit to 4000 grit. I'd say nubuck is somewhere in the 100 to 300 grit range, and probably on the lower end of that range. They might actually use somethibg abrasive but not a sandpaper, such as a spinning sanding drum covered in (oh, I don't know)... nylon canvas, for example.

I don't gouge. When I want recessed stitches I use the tip of a bone folder or a creaser to burnish a recessed line. That way, the outermost layer of the leather need not be cut. For stitch spacing, a rule of thumb could also be to set your stitch spacing to be roughly the thickness of the leather, and likewise that seam to be roughly the same distace from the edge. That way, each hole has basically the same amount of leather around it in each direction, except toward the center of the panel. Where there are changes in thickness (foldover of a belt, for example), I would pick one stitch spacing and go from there. This is just a rule of thumb. Season to taste.

I don't have a sewing tip but for marking leather I like the Stabilo All white pencil. It is made for marking glass and other surfaces but wipes off with a damp cloth better than most marking pencils I've found.

Mink Oil, Neatsfoot Oil, and Neatsfoot Oil Compound seem to be the worst offenders for darkening. Lexol Conditioner is quite good. If you apply it to a damp cloth or sponge and wipe it down with an even, thin coat, let it soak in for an hour or so, and then repeat, then let it sit overnight, you should wind up with leather that looks, feels, and smells better but should return to its original color after soaking in. At first it looks a little deeper in color just due to the added moisture. Note: this is just for conditioning, not waterproofing. For waterproofing you may want to use a spray (not as long-lasting) or a soak-in version such as Dubbin or Sno-Seal, which are beeswax-based.

I think that picture is what OP wants to achieve, but OP did not include a photo of the results she is getting thus far. It's difficult to say how to get from here to there without it.

It's a longshot to find something like this on short notice. I might recommend seeing if you can find a saddle maker or some shoe repair shops and call around. There may be some costume/wardrobe places that would be familiar with wet forming leather but the above two might yield a faster solution.

I recommend a local shoe repair shop. They have the sewing machines that can handle sewing leather (and similar heavy materials). That should be your easiest route to a fix.

Not OP but most cements recommend that the leather be clean and dry. If you need it moistened I would dampen from the outside all over but on the inside everywhere but where the cement is.

I am currently making a stand-up bag with a soft temper leather. I cut each panel twice the size, with an additional 1/4" to allow me to fold it over itself. I put a piece of firm canvas (eg denim) in between. A generous coat of contact vement and some careful folding later, and I have a thicker, firmer panel of that leather. I stitched along the top and it looks good so far. This is the approach any time I use thin, soft leathers but need a firmer panel.

Yes. Give it a try, using your swivel knife only for decorative cuts. You may like the results.

Skip the cuts. Improve your work by setting down your swivel knife.

Look up British Museum Leather Dressing and look up leather conservation techniques. Some of what you'll find out is unfortunate (no miracle balm), but you can always do something. Expectations just need to be realistic.

A lot of people use Resolene over their burnished edge. It is a clear acrylic topcoat. However, it is a bit too potent fresh out of the bottle, so it works better to dilute it 50:50 with water. Two light coats beats one thick coat.

Each company makes their own thinner, but almost any of the All-Purpose Contact cements have compatible thinners. BUT, NOT Multi-Purpose Cement. There is a difference and these families are not compatible. Barge, Master, and Weldwood all use a similar MEK solvent combo for thinning (referring to thinner for All Purpose Cement, not their other products like vinyl cement). A quart of thinner should cost about $13. It does a great job of removing oil, etc., from leather surfaces before gluing, also. The suggestion I give people is to buy cement by the quart and then to get a smaller 8-16 oz glue pot from Atco or S&J. The glue pot is basically a Mason jar made of plastic, with brush that screws into the lid. The brushes are wider than the ones that come with the cement, and hold way more, but the depth of the brush is adjustable, so you can have just the tip of the brush touching cement. By having a separate glue pot, you can open your quart, pour in roughiy 8 oz of cement to the jar, then close your quart can. You will lose less solvent by having less of the cement in a smaller container and just using that. However, investing in a quart of thinner is worth it to revive drying cement (as well as for cleaning off tools and cement spills, etc.)