johnv474
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Everything posted by johnv474
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Chiming in, I even learned something from the "How to Thread a needle" on his Vimeo channel. This, after doing it my old way for years. They are all good. Nigel has been a huge contributor to this community for years.
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- how to work with leather
- starting in leather
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Tea tree oil and cedar oil are both known to have some antiseptic or antibacterial properties. I like the smell of cedar, less so the tea tree. For purely sensory reasons, I would look for scents that are commonly preferred, such as lavender, cinnamon, citrus, or mint. That said, plain veg tan often has a woodsy scent so I might also consider a wood oil, if such a thing exists per se.
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For what it's worth, I, too, would trust leather coming out of Moser. I think sometimes they buy leather and resell (not certain, though). As MikeSC pointed out, maybe the alcohol had something else in it. Your predicament with dyeing that piece is a bit perplexing. Fiebings makes a dye prep, that is supposed to help the dye soak into the leather deeper/faster/better... and I believe the active ingredient is ammonia (but I dont know if there are other important ingredients). You have already used stronger chemicals than those in this process. If your dyes and everything work on other leathers I'd begin to think maybe a portion of that hide didnt quite get fully tanned or something. Hope you get it figured out.
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Best stitches per inch and thread size for wallet makeing
johnv474 replied to Don Ayres's topic in Sewing Leather
Go to reddit.com/r/leathercraft, click on the wiki, and look and the thread/spi recommendations. One person sewed about 10 rows of stitching per spi to compare various thread thicknesses. It isn't wallets per se but it will help. Otherwise, looking through posts there will let you see many wallets, usually with a description of spi and thread size. I would recommend getting an awl that is similar in diameter to the size of the tines on your stitching chisels. I use a Palosanto 2.2 mm for my smaller stitches (8--9 spi or so). I like 0.8 mm thread for 3.85mm stitch spacing, and 0.6 mm for 3.3mm spacing, and 0.5 for 3.0 mm. I do own a drill press but had to buy larger than the smallest size so the chuck opened big enough for the handles of my chisels. The press can cut down on noise. I got a stump for 20 bucks so that handles most of the noise. -
I'm going to speak sternly because this can be riskier than you know, but please do not take it personally. I do not know you or your background. I would not suggest making these, or any leather product that is attached to a large and powerful animal unless you are sure you know what you are doing, and have insurance in place that will protect you if the part fails and someone gets hurt. The person who was hurt (who may not be someone who knows you or would look out for you)--or their family--will want to know who to sue. They will scrutinize whether you used the right type and weight of leather, cut in the right direction from the right part of the hide, or if there was *any* deficiency in the materials or process that could have led to a premature failure. If you were to assume that you were the one on the animal when/if the part failed, and were on crutches or worse, and you came to find out that someone else with your current level of experience and know-how made this item, imagine your feelings on the matter. Any money you trainer saved would not have been worth it. Sorry to have to say all this, because I sense you want to help this person out of the goodness of your heart, but I would suggest finding something else you can make, perhaps as a gift.
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Resolene, diluted 50:50 with water, applied with a damp kitchen sponge in two light coats, following the instructions on the label, with a light buff using a soft old cotton tshirt in between coats, has not let me down so far, on any project. I can select anywhere from satin to semi-gloss in the result. To reach the higher end of glossy I use a cream polish, Blackrock, or Leather Balm with Atom Wax. I prefer it over Tan Kote, Super Sheen, Bag Kote, or any other finish that is commonly available to us. Someone on Youtube did a water-resistance test on Youtube, and Resolene ranked toward the top. Hope this helps.
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Again, where is the leather from? Does it appear to be natural, undyed veg tan? Was this in the bargain bin? What dye are you using? How are you applying it? Has anything happened to the dye, such as freezing? Any or all of these factors can be a factor. We can't see what you're looking at so we need help with context or background information to give better answers. Speaking of which, a picture is worth a thousand words. That said, the rubbing alcohol, by itself, shouldn't interfere with dye. Is it only in the area where the alcohol hit the leather that the dye won't absorb? The spots that don't accept dye could be within the normal range of acceptability but your expectations are higher. Or, they could be glue, wax, or some other contaminant that splashed, flicked, or fell on the surface. Or, it's is possible that you simply received a hide that simply was a lower grade. In general, cleaners would go in roughly this order, in order of increasing strength: water, alcohol, soap, dish soap/detergent, vinegar, ammonia, spot remover/dry cleaner, contact cement thinner, deglazer, acetone. I used deglazer on a pair of over-oiled boots once and, after a few passes, watched the factory dye smear right off. If I have a question about the leather's history I clean it with saddle soap to remove light amounts of oils, dirt, polish, etc. If a test piece doesn't dye properly then I may go up to spot remover. It's not common that I need to do more on an undyed piece of leather. If you are using water-based dyes then get something else. Hope this helps some. -JV474
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Very similar. Generally that matte, pull-up oil-tanned rustic-looking leather is referred to as Crazy Horse.
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What is the thread made of? I would pass the thread under the keeper that has the lining over it it, with no knot, glued in place. Alternative: same thing, but exiting through buckle tongue slot, then putting a drop if ink to obscure the end of the thread, and push back in with a pin tip. Or, use super glue as in solution 3 but color match it to the lining.
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Talented YouTuber
johnv474 replied to AdamPCain's topic in Purses, Wallets, Belts and Miscellaneous Pocket Items
Go penguins! time to try a new distro -
FYI the Craftool stitching chisels are marked and measured differently than about any others. They measure the space _between_ the prongs (but _not_ between the tips of the prongs). IMO, this is both confusing and useless. The Craftool "3mm" should be listed as 5 or 5.5mm. It corresponds to 5 stitches per inch and 1.0mm thread is a good match. Virtually all other stitching chisels and pricking irons are measured by the distance between the tips of the prongs, so 3mm equates to 8-9 spi, depending on the maker. That prefers a much smaller thread.
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Tiger thread aka Ritza 25 is available on Amazon, Ebay, and Etsy. it is pricier but better than the Chengyida or other generic threads out there. it is a tighter braid, seems stronger, and has a better amount of wax on it. The cost of thread used per project is minor so I recommend buying a small spool to test it. The 0.6mm is good for 3mm irons IMO. 0.8mm looks good with 3.85mm irons and 1mm for 4-5mm.
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You could roll it up in something very absorbent like clean newspaper, or bath towels. Do not use bath towels washed with fabric softener because they absorb worse. You could wipe it down with solvent such as maphtha or nail polish remover, or clean it with Dawn (only) blue (only) dishwashing liquid. Only Dawn blue. It cuts oil and grease somewhat and will help lift some out. You could also buy the cheapest kitty litter you can find, which is made of a type of absorbent clay. Cover the leather on both sides (ie a layer, then leather, then another layer of litter). That is used for pulling oil stains out of driveways and works somewhat. You'll have a mess of dust to brush and clean off your leather later, but saddle soap should help with that. You won't get tons of it out but if you can get a fair amount out the rest will settle in and stabilize. When you are done with your project be sure to put on a good topcoat sealer and a water/stain protector spray. Those will help.
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Be vague. No matter what advice you give, you will have people who take it upon themselves to argue with you about it. That can affect sales or create a rift with fans of other products. Don't recommend specific products from particular companies. If you include particular recommendations you also exclude all others as not making the cut. If you decide to try and pick a favorite you will a) go down a very deep rabbit hole, and b) isolate yourself from others. Being agnostic about it is about the most honest approach. I would suggest general instructions such as the following examples: "For a longer lifetime of service, here are some tips: Store when dry. If wet, allow to air dry. Brush off loose dirt and dust, which are abrasive to leather. You may also wipe with a damp, soft cloth. As needed, use a leather-specific cleaner followed by a light application of a quality leather conditioner. Apply waterproofing products as needed, if desired." People who already have products will use them and ignore your card. People who do not can Google one and pick one themselves. If you recommend one and someone takes the advice and doesn't like the result, you will hear about it.
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Yaqui Slide like Jeff Cooper used
johnv474 replied to East50Leather's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
Who? -
Strongest Adhesion But Most Flexible Contact Cement For Leather
johnv474 replied to Toddo's topic in How Do I Do That?
No adhesive will make up for not sewing. If you want an adhesive for leather and fabric that is both strong and flexible, look for those adhesives used in shoemaking. Since shoes and boots have to flex and stay attached, those adhesives have been developed specifically for such an application. These are most commonly your neoprene-based contact cements: Barge APC, Masters All Purpose Cement, Du-All 88, Jet Set, etc. A quart should cost about $20, unless you shop at triple-markup retail hobby franchises. Weldwood is also a neoprene based contact cement and whoever said it dries rigid is using that terminology wrong. -
You may want to post in the Sewing Leather forum. There are some knowledgeable folks there. I'd be surprised if a 110V motor could sew holsters. You can always sew heavier stuff by hand in the meantime.
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Tokonole is good, maybe better than CMC. Tokonole has a little wax in it that helps to shine the edge. CMC typically does not.
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The effect in the top pictures is from natural veg tan that had CMC (CarboxyMethyl Cellulose, I think) applied and then burnished by hand... meaning, using his hands. This is the work of a very talented artisan named Daisukenshin, I believe. He also only uses wing dividers and an awl--no stitch marking wheels or pricking irons or stitching chisels--as well as maybe a dozen tools that he has mastered, as opposed to hundreds of tools that he doesn't know as well. He is an incredibly talented leathercrafter, IMHO.
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Renia Yankee Wax. It is available from shoe repair supply houses such as Frankford Leather or Southern Leather. A triangular stick almost the size of a stick of butter should cost about $8.
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Maybe post the same question in the Sewing Leather section? Perhaps more experienced eyes will see it there.
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I have used the USPS medium shipping tubes, which are triangular and 36" long, and keave one end open. They are available for free but intended for shipping. I do use them for shipping, and in doing so rotate out the ones I store leather in. They stack up and can hold large pieces of leather as well as small scraps of the same. The cardboard separates oily leather from dry leathers and it's easy to pull a particular piece out. I stack them in a closet and under a bed for longer storage.
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Yankee Wax is indeed very hard, but it will seal and shine the edges of even oil tanned leathers. It takes heat, though. We apply it with a leather wheel that spins on a motor and is coated in the stuff, then polish and smooth with a spinning brush. With a $5 candle warmer from Walmart, it can be melted and then applied with a scratch awl, pencil, or popsicle stick. It can then be smoothed/polished, section by section, with aggressive canvas rubbing and then lighter buffing with an old tshirt.
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Best Color to use with electric edge creaser
johnv474 replied to Flutist's topic in How Do I Do That?
I don't think Fiebings products are as commonly used with an electric edge creaser as much as some of the dedicated leather edge paints such as Vernis or Giardini. The best colors? Black and Dark Brown. -
Chicago screws are available in black coating. It will not last forever but a clear enamel or nail polish can extend that for a long time. Since neither brass nor stainless are black, the color, in practical terms, has to be a coating (unless you want to be paying far more than 25 cents apiece). You will have to decide whether you want the strongest or the strongest black. The strongest would be something like stainless with a really wide cap or a washer beneath it on both sides. It would be a lot stronger to have a few rows of stitching from end to end, but that greatly increases the labor. A brass Chicago screw has a 3/16" thick stem that is effectively solid brass once set. Most copper rivets are 1/8" stem or thinner, and copper is a softer metal than brass. A copper rivet in leather is considered a permanent type of attachment, so a brass thread-locked Chicago screw should be even more so... plus, they are simple to set.