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This is listed on Facebook and it's sitting on a proper singer cast table and has been motorised. It also comes with a second unknown machine. I asked for a price and he evetually came back with, "make me an offer"

Did you not read the PM I sent you Folker? The guy eventually got back to me saying "make me an offer".

Wrap some fine emery paper around the right size rod for the size of the teeth. You could even use a wooden dowel with some of the honing compound on it. Nothing to lose.

Steel manufacturers know exactly the kind of steel they're making. Good steel can be ruined in the process but starting off with the right steel is half the battle. Klara, If you want to make a knife try a high speed circular saw blade thats made for cutting steel. cut it out with a grinder but cut it oversize so you don't ruin the edge. Keeping it cool is uber important at all times but more so later when working on the edge. A rule of thumb is the colour of the sparks. The brighter the sparks, the more carbon is in the steel. Put an old file on the grinder to get what I mean. Don't worry about this talk of "too brittle" we're talking about a knife here not a hardwood axe.

There's Aussie right there! Made me smile Brian. I sometimes think thats where I should have been. Three of us were going to do the £10 thing many years ago but I chickened out. But there's defo some Aussie in me. Couldn't handle the flies though.

My first thought was the old cigarette burn on the carpet trick of taking the burn out with a hole punch (A sharpened piece of plumbing pipe for non leatherworkers) and replacing it with an identicle piece from behind the sofa. Wouldn't work here unless you had another piece of leather with the same patina. It looks like it might be a dopp bag. If so maybe a couple of antique brass air holes (grommets) with the same in the corresponding corner.

Great job as per Jesse.

There's a certain amount of love and/or pride that goes into crafting of any kind and when it comes to selling it does get tricky. It always amuses me when a crafter takes a day to make a greeting card and complains when they can't get £10 for it knowing full well that the shop in the high street is selling the same thing for £0.85p. There is light at the end of the tunnel for true artisans like yourself. The amount of "A" list customers for whom money is not a consideration is growing and they want quality over everything else. The problem is reaching them before there's nothing left in the cupboard. Not being in your league I can only imagine how you go about that. Maybe plug away and increase prices gradually or go big and pay the price for adverting where the A listers will see it. Of course the cost of said adverts will be built into your price. Whichever route you choose I wish you all the luck in the world.

Not usually a fan of scrollwork but perfect for an application like this and beautifully done but surely you would only do something like this for a friend because I can't see you getting back the time you put in but then again, I'm getting old and £20 is still a lot of money. Well done.

Hey Mike. You don't say if you're experienced with an industrial. If you're not I would hang fire on doing too much work on that clutch motor because sure as eggs is eggs you're gonna want to change it out for a servo motor right quick. Just get it working to see if it suits before doing too much work. Even experienced sewers find it hard to tame the speed of clutch motors.

Have another look at the wide belt option but stitched around the back of a rucksack, maybe two rows. Just had another thought! (it didn't hurt too much). Maybe just stitch the top edge of the belt to the bottom of the rucksack. Then it won't get in the way of everything else. You could even do it so it extends the depth of the rucksack for more storage.

I like that a lot. Does what it says on the tin.

Give up the idea of a roll. It ain't gonna happen. Whatever you come up with is gonna be better that how they're carried now. I'm thinking a belt with batches of two with one inverted like your first sketch but one higher than the other to get them as close as possible. Then stitch a wide center piece leaving it open ended both ends like a wide cartridge belt.Then stitch flaps along the top and bottom with one flap for every two (pitons?). That way you can open one flap to get at one because the other is held by the bottom flap and can't fall out. The belt can be loose enough to slide for easy access to all the pockets if neccessary.

Welcome Mike. An ex fabricator welder here. That's a great MLK.

Steer away from kits. Subscribe to Cechaflo on YouTube if you want to be amazed about leather car interiors.

Check the check spring. Make sure it's in control until the needle enters the fabric then it needs to be loose in order to form a loop to catch the hook.

I know you're looking volume But I thought I'd throw this in here In case someone can make use of it. I'm a hobbyist rhat likes to challenge myself with different projects thinking one day I might be able to get some of this money back. And I use a modified Arbor press though I'm thinking about making a manual clicker press. This first link is for a roller that will bend steel rule circles in no time and it won't break the bank. I made this circle bag using a die I made with it. I should add that I don't weld them, I cut the shape I want out of ply and fix the rule steel around the outside. This is happy with 3 point R/S. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B018JH0S4I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This next link is for a bending jig set. it's ok with 2point R/S but struggles with 3point. It comes with a basic set of formers (or moulds) https://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Durston-Metal-Bending-Set-prcode-999-7162

Very similar except I don't think the Singer has reverse. The 239 does.

That's part of the fibre board catch all tray that runs the length of the machine. The oil tray shown at the bottom of the manual pic is the right one.

I have one of these but I'm certainly no expert. The manual pic is for a twin needle machine. The oil pan is filled with felt usually. If you PM me with an email address I'll send you what I have. Too much to post on here but I warn you, it'll frustrate you as it does me. Someone will come along like Constabulary or Uwe who know the ins and out of a cat whatsit about these German machines.

Usually holsters don't do much for me but that got my attention. A lot of thought went into that and I like the angle of the holster so nothing interferes with the flap. Very well done Jesse.

If the backing is to make a multi use template then of course you glue and cut on the line. When using a paper pattern to cut the leather direct I cut the pattern about a half inch oversize so I can tape/staple it to the leather with masking tape so when I'm done punching holes etc I can then cut on the lines leaving no tape residue. I use the thickest card my printer will take to print the pattern, then after first use it becomes a template for the next one. If using a punched hole pattern such as DieselpunkRos it makes the second one so much quicker because the punch just falls into the holes.

I have an Adler 69 which is virtually the same thing. I've done a couple of Tonys patterns with it with no problems. Don't try it with patterns with curves though unless you really know what you're doing. The hand stitching is what pulls the two parts together to form the curve so with a machine you would have to manually keep moving the two parts around the curve every couple of stitches. The machine does save a lot of time where the parts are flat though.

The laws of physics say that if you fix two layers in the flat position and then bend them the inside layer will contract and the outside layer will expand. You have to glue/sew it in the curved position, either on a cylinder arm machine or if by hand on an appropriate shaped form. It will never lie flat after this. This should apply no matter what thickness the layers.

Good job Jerry. I see you're on your own journey here. Well done.