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Partwell in the UK but don't know if they have outlets over there. Comes in boxes of 60/90 meter lengths. If you just want a few look for a commercial die maker who might sell you some.

It wasn't that particular one that piqued my interest. It was the design. The extra length between the shank and the blade should mean more force at the blade for less effort. It also looks like you could see your line a lot more clearly than when leaning over your hand with a swivel knife. Maybe someone could make something out of a cut down swivel knife to prove or disprove the concept.

I have an exacto type with a small swivel blade on the end and I didn't think much of it but I was wondering how much difference the shape of this one would make. If you watch the video, if it hasn't been doctored it does seem easy to use. Would it be the same if it were "leather size"?

I was thinking more about how that design follows a line? And how deep does the initial cut have to be?

I can't believe that all you guys that have extolled the virtues of this swivel knife or that swivel knife, or this angle or that angle have absolutely nothing to say about this?

Not promoting it for anything. Just saw it and............ https://www.comfybear.co.uk/products/craft-cutting-tools?variant=39394681192526

Good effort but cut your nails next time.

A friend of mine used to import and sell various stuff from Thailand. I always said " It's marvellous what a Thailander? can make with a few sticks of wood" After reading some of this thread I thought back to Harley Davidsons they make out of a bunch of reeds.They ranged from 6 inches long to full size. Obviously they don't make the reeds or the occassional pins or the paint/lacquer but those bikes were made with a pair of hands and a knife. That's handmade. Every other definition is an individuals personal agenda and always will be.

This is listed on Facebook and it's sitting on a proper singer cast table and has been motorised. It also comes with a second unknown machine. I asked for a price and he evetually came back with, "make me an offer"

Did you not read the PM I sent you Folker? The guy eventually got back to me saying "make me an offer".

Wrap some fine emery paper around the right size rod for the size of the teeth. You could even use a wooden dowel with some of the honing compound on it. Nothing to lose.

Steel manufacturers know exactly the kind of steel they're making. Good steel can be ruined in the process but starting off with the right steel is half the battle. Klara, If you want to make a knife try a high speed circular saw blade thats made for cutting steel. cut it out with a grinder but cut it oversize so you don't ruin the edge. Keeping it cool is uber important at all times but more so later when working on the edge. A rule of thumb is the colour of the sparks. The brighter the sparks, the more carbon is in the steel. Put an old file on the grinder to get what I mean. Don't worry about this talk of "too brittle" we're talking about a knife here not a hardwood axe.

There's Aussie right there! Made me smile Brian. I sometimes think thats where I should have been. Three of us were going to do the £10 thing many years ago but I chickened out. But there's defo some Aussie in me. Couldn't handle the flies though.

My first thought was the old cigarette burn on the carpet trick of taking the burn out with a hole punch (A sharpened piece of plumbing pipe for non leatherworkers) and replacing it with an identicle piece from behind the sofa. Wouldn't work here unless you had another piece of leather with the same patina. It looks like it might be a dopp bag. If so maybe a couple of antique brass air holes (grommets) with the same in the corresponding corner.

Great job as per Jesse.

There's a certain amount of love and/or pride that goes into crafting of any kind and when it comes to selling it does get tricky. It always amuses me when a crafter takes a day to make a greeting card and complains when they can't get £10 for it knowing full well that the shop in the high street is selling the same thing for £0.85p. There is light at the end of the tunnel for true artisans like yourself. The amount of "A" list customers for whom money is not a consideration is growing and they want quality over everything else. The problem is reaching them before there's nothing left in the cupboard. Not being in your league I can only imagine how you go about that. Maybe plug away and increase prices gradually or go big and pay the price for adverting where the A listers will see it. Of course the cost of said adverts will be built into your price. Whichever route you choose I wish you all the luck in the world.

Not usually a fan of scrollwork but perfect for an application like this and beautifully done but surely you would only do something like this for a friend because I can't see you getting back the time you put in but then again, I'm getting old and £20 is still a lot of money. Well done.

Hey Mike. You don't say if you're experienced with an industrial. If you're not I would hang fire on doing too much work on that clutch motor because sure as eggs is eggs you're gonna want to change it out for a servo motor right quick. Just get it working to see if it suits before doing too much work. Even experienced sewers find it hard to tame the speed of clutch motors.

Have another look at the wide belt option but stitched around the back of a rucksack, maybe two rows. Just had another thought! (it didn't hurt too much). Maybe just stitch the top edge of the belt to the bottom of the rucksack. Then it won't get in the way of everything else. You could even do it so it extends the depth of the rucksack for more storage.

I like that a lot. Does what it says on the tin.

Give up the idea of a roll. It ain't gonna happen. Whatever you come up with is gonna be better that how they're carried now. I'm thinking a belt with batches of two with one inverted like your first sketch but one higher than the other to get them as close as possible. Then stitch a wide center piece leaving it open ended both ends like a wide cartridge belt.Then stitch flaps along the top and bottom with one flap for every two (pitons?). That way you can open one flap to get at one because the other is held by the bottom flap and can't fall out. The belt can be loose enough to slide for easy access to all the pockets if neccessary.

Welcome Mike. An ex fabricator welder here. That's a great MLK.

Steer away from kits. Subscribe to Cechaflo on YouTube if you want to be amazed about leather car interiors.

Check the check spring. Make sure it's in control until the needle enters the fabric then it needs to be loose in order to form a loop to catch the hook.

I know you're looking volume But I thought I'd throw this in here In case someone can make use of it. I'm a hobbyist rhat likes to challenge myself with different projects thinking one day I might be able to get some of this money back. And I use a modified Arbor press though I'm thinking about making a manual clicker press. This first link is for a roller that will bend steel rule circles in no time and it won't break the bank. I made this circle bag using a die I made with it. I should add that I don't weld them, I cut the shape I want out of ply and fix the rule steel around the outside. This is happy with 3 point R/S. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B018JH0S4I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This next link is for a bending jig set. it's ok with 2point R/S but struggles with 3point. It comes with a basic set of formers (or moulds) https://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Durston-Metal-Bending-Set-prcode-999-7162