toxo

Thought I'd posted these pics before. Anyway, I don't think it's a leather machine and it's much too fast for me. It sits in an oil bath so it will go on forever. The motor on the singer was really noisy so I put new bearings in it and it's nice and quiet now and it's still in situ so won't take much effort to get it up and running. The other motor came off my Durkopp 239 which I think I will be selling soon also, nothing wrong with it, I installed a servo motor.

Head, table and motor. Reverse not working. Collect from Gillingham, Kent , UK Also 2nd clutch motor, also free.

For those big long hides you won't get a straighter line than a chalk line. You can buy em but any piece of string will do. Just rub along it with some chalk, stretch it tight along the hide and ping it. And if you ever need an absolute 90 degree right angle on a big area use the 3,4,5 method.

Interesting cutting style.

it also depends on the type of line you're cutting. Straight lines - almost any knife will do as long as it's sharp and used with a strait-edge. If doing a curve I use a knife with a point and raise the butt so I'm just using the point. If you lower the butt the forward edge of the blade will try to straiten out the curve if that makes sense.

Do those seams first with the bag inside out, then the bottom, then the top line.

When I'm punching patterns and sometimes when punching leather also (Depends on the project), I run a candle or a bar of soap along the punch/stitch line and it helps enormously.

Maybe oily fingers when stitching before you put gloves on for dying? The problem only seems to be the edges where it's been handled.

That has to be the best leather craftmanship I've ever seen. Awesome.

Too much of a generalisation for me. Every method of parting us from our money has to be looked at on it's own merit. Every "business" (was there ever a word as abused as that one?) strategy has to go through the morals and ethics corridor which has a bearing on how a company makes it's money. Sadly, over the last 100 years business has learnt to sprint through that corridor with less and less effect on their conscience or accountability.

That's what passes for "business" these days. In the interest of profit they gradually hike up the price until it no longer sells. Then they start reducing the size. Over here we have something called a "Wagon Wheel" and when I was a kid it was around 7inches across and almost an inch thick. Now it's the size of a biscuit. I used to think some of the better stores were better than that. I was wrong.

What's not to like? Good voice/music /content. Well done Yin.

Looks good so far but the shoulders are vulnerable. https://dieselpunkro.patternbyetsy.com/listing/931363776/shoulder-armor-pattern-printed-paper

You don't need to spend big money on punches. I use these in 0.8mm, 1.2mm and 1.5mm and they've been fine. My guess is there's glue involved somewhere. You won't notice until you leave the pellets to stick to each other and the inside wall of the punch. If this is the case just punch a few holes in some non glued stuff and maybe leave the punch in a small jar of solvent or thinners. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/122584851260?var=425413248570

You have nothing to lose by trying shoe polish. I'm about to do the same with a pair of shoes that are a bit lighter than I'd like. Failing that if 125c did it in the first place it'll do it again using darker dyes or adding dark dye to the original mix if you still have.

News to me also. Will investigate. Thanks @MtlBiker.

Not my veg tan. It's only about 1.4mm and very floppy.

Well done Fred.

Just glad to help Bill.

I've got a piece of natural veg tan with that milled look on the flesh side and I thought the same thing.

To remove any rivet just center punch with a nail or a proper centerpunch and carefully drill with a 1/8th (or thereabouts). The top will come away with no fuss then pull out from the other side.

A lot of figurin out been done on that. Great job. Well done.

A great example of necessity being the mother of invention at some point in time. Took a while to get my mind off that mechanical broom in the background.

Not knocking airbrushes at all. I have two somewhere. Great for small/intricate stuff but I don't do much of that. I hear what peeps are saying about loss of pressure but I'm basing the following on the premise that it doesn't. It can't be that hard to seal the damn thing properly. Whenever do you use a spray can once and it loses pressure. OK, assuming you can seal it; The thing that appeals most to me is being able to grab the colour I want, spray the leather, DONE until the next time. If I have to re-charge after 10/12 times I'll take that. No looking for compressors, no cleaning airbrushes, FAR less cost in dye over daubers, sponges, brushes etc and NO streaks. It's a win win win for me. Just thought of another plus. If I want a mottled effect like the last bag I posted here, I can just spray the sponge. Take the way I did it before, 1st colour, take lid off bottle, take clean dauber, tip bottle up on dauber, daub the sponge. dab dab. replace lid on bottle replace bottle. 2nd colour, repeat, 3rd colour, repeat. All the while praying one of the bottles doesn't get knocked over.

That Jenni can looks useful Fred but every time I've ever used one of those finger pull sprays sooner or later it starts spitting. fine for watering plants or WD40.