toxo

Yes if you like people looking at you sideways all day.

Use a compass that holds a leather pen. Mark a center line. Open the compass from the center line to the edge. Use a piece of scrap leather with a dab of double sided tape on the bottom. Place point of compass on scrap leather and move scrap leather along the center line for the length of the flap.

I agree Folker but they do what it says on the tin. I'd love to find an "unknown" maker who would make some for the "69". Here's a thought. Would a 111 type presser foot bar fit in the 69? How easy is it to take out the 69 bar to modify it? I'm seriously thinking about trading in the 69.

I have one of those but couldn't get on with it as you can tell by the dust. For a long time I've been using the second one and it quickly started to go wrong from the get go. The clamp thread pulled out very easily which is why the G clamp. I stuck with it because I rarely use a strap cutter. Both this one and the metal one are dangerous and the wooden one has bit me more times than I care to recall. I bought the second wooden one recently when I visited my leather supplier and although more expensive is a far better product. it's more positive and accurate and even cut a 3/8 strip of 6mm foam with impunity and it will never bite me because the blade is enclosed.

What a brilliant hack! I'm clumping myself upside the head for not coming up with this myself. The difference in price for these feet is nothing short of colossal. I have a full set of spring edge guides for my Durkopp 239 (same as Singer 111) at these kind of prices, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272615402952?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item3f7924edc8:g:X7sAAOSws5Fd6wyH&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAAA8OXjs%2BI1MGoQ7%2FATpDVSnMmwny3eCaXi00TVQ8nbKWs%2FFa%2FdUYS2Ghc3ZDu6%2B%2F3qk1rH%2FNEesLTlPwgVYgsyN5j557YLmYUpE4JKVBv3mC%2FKl39eNhoSu01GgOPpXe5Q2EIP%2BJd7EWnoTklVzH4oai2D9o5ufMbPaCDUd8kLWgbiRO5o4e5zZ0TahA7RfVtaVeJqX9dBrfOUwulW1ZEvCNQemrI1k%2FJm9qfitywPX%2BaKhHr0megxA488rFpZ2NnJ%2F%2FsbyEyPU55V7EavRjtwFbLZt1jVaju6vdiMU8U0rh7pstdxiAV3a0unyxUolxH4yQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBM5v6Rivhf Versus the same thing for my Adler 69, and this is for one set of left and right of only one size. To buy the equivalent of the above would cost hundreds of pounds. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274602014562?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item3fef8e3762:g:7gIAAOSw0FRfy1Qz&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAAA8HoBzgn4MVYBxeC18IScxgvjoddY%2B6m4aTIQKygVVqUTqCWw7f%2F1L5UKhFJnz%2FVSBvpr5m5NsP9XXPtZYJLU5kqpjOd99e5jfb9cv44R7f41pKYKFkah0adAM%2FJGOu8bMkf0ULRoZvQf388iLbaOFD%2B4v1Y4YlDV5wUWVcNJlD0261nzS0wv6jv59p%2FlUgCd90CvHXXnDI8%2BhUch%2FV3i8i5I9DxBu3XeoU3Sl%2BpusJwdLF7X8L3EGGRMAPrdchGs%2Blru3gIK1aFxj9Fe4lvHE%2FAXxIMgy3c3g9OkukBxn82tRJoj%2BDOvM4woozMwyGOscA%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBMlun7ifhf

I too never pierce the thread, on a long stitch line when the thread gets frayed I just move the thread along. absolutely no need to pierce the thread. On the subject of piercing the thread whilst sewing, if you get both needles crossing in the hole you will never pierce the thread but if things are a bit tight, before I resort to one needle at a time I'll try to use the front portion of the needle where it tapers down a bit.

You most certainly are not. Just last week I bought a THIRD rotary hole punch, a clicker handle and 7 blades, a better strap cutter, a whole bunch of short stemmed double cap rivets got thousands of the damn things but fed up with the stems folding over cos they're too long. Trouble is I can only get small heads with small stems. Who does short stemmed big head rivets? A bunch of extra small buckles for luggage tags, some large chrome plated rings for a couple of bags and a shed load of leather but when the prices are good you gotta do it.

You say you haven't touched the bobbin tension? That could've been the problem all along. If the bobbin tension is too tight then you'll have to tighten the top tension to make up for it. In practice the job of a balanced tension is to get the "knot" in between the two layers. Too much top tension can actually bend the needle so the hook can't get to the loop. Loosen the bobbin tension and then ease off the top tension until that knot is in the middle. If the knot can be seen on the underside then slacken off the bobbin tension some more. We're talking maybe half a turn on the bobbin tension at a time,

I just wish I had a fraction of you work ethic - and your equipment of course.

I visited one of my leather shops on Thursday and among a lot of other stuff he showed me this piece of leather. I think it's a calf side and it has the temper and feel of English Bridle and it had a lot of a white mould over it. He wanted £10 and I said I'd risk it for a fiver. I tried all sorts of cleaners on it to no avail. Then I tried ordinary spray furniture polish and it came off like a charm. Happy days. He threw in this hair on Goatskin gratis but I don't know what to do with it. Any ideas?

Stunning! The attention to detail was well worth it. Well done. I really have to try making a wallet one day.

Not sure how much you already know but it does get easier. Skipping stitches should be fairly easy to put right. Start with the hook. Is it meeting the scarf in the needle roughly in the middle? If not it needs timing. Is the hook as close to the needle as possible without touching it? Is there a loop of thread that the hook can go through? This would be my bet. The tension must be completely off the thread when the hook gets to it. If not there will be no loop. Reasons could be too much top tension or a badly adjusted check spring. Get that lot sorted before looking to the bobbin tension to "balance" the thread. Good luck.

I love ya Brian but you make me sick!

Excellent job. Almost makes me wish I did tooling.

Great job. Wish I had a place to do that but it wouldn't work in the spare bedroom.

Thanks Brian. To be honest I don't know what size thread it is. It's one I use a lot but I don't get hung up on thread sizes. Obviously the thread has to be of a size to suit the job but I go primarily for colour and then I'll choose a needle. If it slides down the thread we're good to go. I think 138 is the biggest I've used also. Your eagle eye spotted the NP. I did this video after installing the handwheel but it is on now. I wouldn't be without it.

I think you just like playing with Sketch Up.

The stuff I use is like a light beige colour. Couldn't tell you what it is cos my leather shop sells it in jam jars with no label but I love it. Slightly more runny than new contact adhesive and is forgiving when you forget to put the lid on. I don't use enough to use a glue pot so I'm gonna look for a decent size squeezy tube with a pointy nozzle which I find much more convenient than jars/tins. One thing I wouldn't be without is Toluene. cleans brushes/spatulas etc and thins glue easily.

Take no notice of the sewing but check the speed.

That would of course depend on the speed of the machine in the first place but I'll leave the numbers to you. Not my forte but I've done this on two machines now and I know what works for me.

Using thinner leather or skiving the edges is one way but before you go spending money on more chisels you have nothing to lose by filing the gap between the spikes on the ones you have. you can get small flat or triangular files but a hacksaw or a dremel will ease the burden before filing.

After timing the hook, make sure the top tension isn't too tight and make sure the take up spring releases the thread before the needle starts to rise else a loop can't form for the hook to latch onto. There has to be tension somewhere to fray the thread unless it's catching on something. If you're using the correct needle and it's still happening try a bigger needle.

Getting there. Could go a lot bigger than 6" on the pulley. Mine is almost twice that at 270mm and gives one stitch at a time if I want. You can make a new belt from a strip of leather to get the size for a new one.

Without seeing the video I would just say that most things are possible with leather if you want it bad enough. I would probably make a wooden form out of four half round dowels with a small space between. Find a way to clamp the wet veg tan leather till it's dry, either do two moulds or do the process twice then marry the two halves, stitch between and around, trim off the excess and finish.

s already been suggested, I would go with Artisan Textile Fabricator.