toxo

If you're in London you should aquaint yourself with J T Batchelor In Dalston. I believe they do it and much more magical stuff as well.

I get how that works for layers but I'm not getting what you meant with the front flap, unless you mean to bulk it up cos it's thin? This was always just a trial run to see how the pieces came together using leather that's been through the washing machine cos it's still got a chemical smell to it. I wish I had a clicker press. My entire setup is in a small spare bedroom and my humble 1 ton arbor press pretends to be everything from a clicker press to a hot foil machine.

Thanks Brian. Here's a couple of early attempts showing the circle. On the first one I tried to design the strap for double duty as a bum bag via a keeper at the back or over the shoulder with the D rings. Not getting the first/second cut bit. These were hand stitched. (As if you couldn't tell ha ha)

I made these die cutters to make this bag and decided to test it on thinner, smelly leather that I don't like. The pattern was designed to be hand sewn but I wanted to see if I could machine it. Needs a couple tweaks but I'm quite chuffed with the result. Should come right on thicker leather. What's the verdict guys?

Don't overthink it! If the leather is thick enough and wide enough, a long slanted skived scarf properly glued and stitched will hold a hell of a lot.

I would say you've nothing to lose by giving it a go. I would start by dampening the whole thing and and packing it as much as you can while it's wet. Wooden blocks in the pockets and maybe stuffed newspaper or somesuch. Whatever it takes to get the shape right. Let it dry (even in the oven on a very low heat). Then clean it and get as much oil in it as you can. The rest you can do yourself. Saddle stitch isn't difficult to the standard that you'll need and think of the satisfaction you'll get. Priceless!

If you get stuck, there's a bearing shop not far from me and they're really helpful. Give me the relevant measurements and I'll call them tomorrow. If you do a search on my content you should find the post I did on it.

You don't have a hacksaw? chop the shoulder off, clean up with a file. If it has a shoulder it will usually have a set screw in the shoulder and not a keyway. After you take the shoulder off, drill and tap a diagonal set screw hole to hold onto the shaft. We're not dealing with massive torque here. If there's a shoulder on the shaft for the new pulley to sit on you might only need a serrated washer under the nut to hold it in place.

Servo shaft diameter? Can't remember my details because I did a similar conversion on my Durkopp239 but they are out there. You can even buy pulleys that you can bore out yourself. Try Googling 40mm/45mm sheave instead of pulley.

After 40 degrees the smell has almost gone and although it's still an unusual smell it's sort of sweeter???

Sorry, I lied, It's a 40mm pulley not 45mm. I don't remember where I got it, I had it already but It had a shoulder on it that I had to chop off before I could get the securing nut on it.

Well done! I put a 250mm pulley on my 69. Brilliant with a 45mm on the servo.

Put it in on 30degrees with a couple old towels (silly me) towels grey, leather still stinks. Put it back in on its own at 40. Will let you know.

I have some nice black stuff. Don't remember where it came from, must've got it in a batch cos I sure wouldn't have bought it on it's own. It's obviously chrome tanned but the smell is really obnoxious. Never come across it before but it really attacks the senses. It's very much a chemical smell and I can't work with it. Do I bin it or put it in the washing machine?

Some stamps have more pronounced bits on the corners so you line up by putting the raised bits in the dimple made by the last imprint.

I'd go with Gorilla first. It's the only one that foams and expands. Remember to dampen the area. It needs moisture to work, will get into those braid cavities. Of course roughing the clasp will always help.

My only consideration would be - can I get my head over the top of the work without getting a bad back? My worktop sits atop a singer table and luckily works out ok. As for cracking; If you can work out where you'll do the most bashing, make sure there's a solid leg under it rather than having to move your work to get over an existing leg

Apparently America will be no more. https://www.independent.co.uk/news/world/americas/us-politics/trump-sean-spicer-newsmax-america-b1920400.html

My bad Mule. Should've looked harder. Must've had a senior moment sorry.

Great job and nothing to snag the thread. not easy to do. All it needs to be perfect is some kind of grab on the strap under the seat so you don't have to keep your foot on it.

This looks really good. Just hang it on a couple of hooks on the door or wall and carry it anywhere. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Yuede-Organizer-Zippered-Pockets-Multi-Purpose/dp/B092Z43N1K/ref=sr_1_17_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=Tool+Roll&qid=1630335741&sr=8-17-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyUVlWUzJZTFcyOEVDJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTMyNjIzMVowQTRYRUVMTk9PRSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNzA5MDMxMkxTNFZUTFhHWTNVWCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX210ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

I hope it didn't come across as a criticism. Many people like that antique look, especially for decorative sets. Does it lay flat easily?

Great job! He'll have that forever. Made me wonder if the white squares could be made lighter without painting. Can veg tan be bleached? Has anyone tried it?

You beat me to it Klara. I like Dikmans one but I was going to suggest making the cam lock wider and incorporating a piece of bungee similar to yours to stop the snagging.