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This is a great idea from Youtube. Put a tyre stem valve into an empty spray can and refill and re-pressurise again and again. You could have one for air/dye/paint/wd40 etc. Watch from half way.

Ain't it cute?

Think I already worked that out after I'd ordered a cheap one from Ali Express. Duh! Seems to me that here's an invention looking for an inventor. Just needs a spring somewhere to ride the oscillations.

Anyone know if I can get a roller wheel foot for my Adler 69 or my Durkopp 239 (Singer 111 type)? If so, where? Thanks guys

Welcome from the UK. You've started something now. But I know you'll enjoy the ride.

Welcome from Kent in the UK. If you're like the rest of us on here you'll love the learning.

I had to do this yesterday. The best way by far is to center punch the middle of the rivet and use a drill bit the same size as the rivet shank. Quick, clean and simple. The trick is not to press too much else the top part will spin with the drill bit but even then a pair of pliers will suffice to hold it whilst you finish drilling. If done right the rivet will come apart on it's own with no damage to the leather and the hole is no bigger than when you started.

This is just one youtube video that shows what you can do with an arbor press. Check out the back of the ram. Can be raised or lowered. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vqCYOCPD-58

Most arbor presses are geared all the way from top to bottom of the ram. You just have to undo the side piece, pull out the side with the bar on it and raise the clearance before putting it together again. Quicker to do it than write it. On mine the left hand side is always off so I can raise/lower as required.

Me too. In a previous life I was a fabricator/welder and when the metric system came in over here we all had a moan but there's no denying that once you get over it, it's much easier.

Why not just cut a circle out of a sticky label and carefully draw the lines and annotate in ounces.

You are of course entitled to your opinion but be sure of why you hold that opinion. It certainly can't be because the imperial system (The American one at that) is easier than dividing/ multiplying everything by ten!!! Remember a dollar is 100 cents.

Why worry about ounces? Sooner or later the whole world will convert to the far superior digital and metric system.

If you're asking me Chuck then as near as damnit yes. I bought a huge side Chrome tanned "Panama" from J Wood a couple of years ago for £50 delivered. It was meant to be 2.4mm I think. I made a shopping tote that turned out to be so heavy it's been a tool bag ever since. I still have some of it. No wire in the hat. Is why I love it. can do anything to it and it just springs back into shape. https://www.jwoodleathers.co.uk/panama-leather/

@DJole Glad the turn worked out for you. @RockyAussie Is that top piece skived and turned Brian or did you sew inside out and turn before top stitching?

One of the most comprehensive guides I've come across. https://anglosewing.co.uk/downloads/gb1.pdf

Not usually a hat wearer but always have one near for when it's raining and you need to go in the garden or out to the car. I made the Indiana Jones hat but would never wear it. Had this Australian style for years but it takes 5 mins to get it into shape for wearing. I had some 3mm soft chrome tan so I made this. I can abuse it as much as I like and it just springs back into shape. Love it.

I love my 69, especially now I've got it doing one stitch at a time but I don't think it's as precise as it could be. I know it's probably my technique but I'm not sure how much the back and forth feed dog is a factor. If I were to trade up, what would I be looking at for light to medium leather?

You asked, I answered. I don't see any rivets.

One idea is to cut two slots where the "D" rings are. Run the strap under, up through the slot, through the "D" ring , back through the slot and on to the next "D"ring. The strap isn't seen and maybe uses less leather. Stitching across a strap will weaken it. Maybe a nice rivet either side of the rings? A lot depends on how strong it needs to be.

Thanks guys, an interesting idea and I like it. It would certainly be easier to sew. Thing is I was thinking of something he would wear to school for years. Don't think you could make him go to school with a dino on his back at 9/10. Of course I suppose I could make two. I do like the idea of scaling it up. His mum sent a short video yesterday of him opening the parcel and another this morning showing him waking up with it in the bed. He'd slept with it. I wanted to show you guys the video but although very short it's over 3mb and I don't know how to shorten it. Uploaded it to YT https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Myn2KsoVwAQ

Doesn't mean you have to give it to em. Those bags are better than bargain basement.

Just throwing ideas at you. Having stiff sides may negate the need for foam on the front. Maybe VT or some other stiffener glued to the CT gusset on the inside. As for skiving, you need a really sharp blade. Maybe glue on the CT top to harden it before skiving. Maybe glue the foam to the top of the CT before skiving both. Find out what works for you. No one will be as critical as you.

I'm just a hobbyist also but I'm gonna make an effort this year to get back some of the dosh I've laid out. You're doing really well so far and you're right to ask the questions and learn from other peoples experience but only practice and trial and error will get you where you need to be. So. To keep the cost and labour down, you could just try veg tan for the gussets. That will hold up the sides and the flap should stop the sides from coming in. The top of the front panel shouldn't need too much stiffening (maybe none) and so shouldn't be too bulky. I'd mention skiving the top but it's not that easy on soft leather and it's time consuming. I would try 1.8mm/2mm VT, when stitched it's quite strong but you'll have to try it for yourself. You can ask your leather shop for some samples of different thicknesses but spend a little money on decent sized samples that you can sew else they'll send credit card sizes and if you're gonna dye it you can use the economy grades.