toxo

Well done! I put a 250mm pulley on my 69. Brilliant with a 45mm on the servo.

Put it in on 30degrees with a couple old towels (silly me) towels grey, leather still stinks. Put it back in on its own at 40. Will let you know.

I have some nice black stuff. Don't remember where it came from, must've got it in a batch cos I sure wouldn't have bought it on it's own. It's obviously chrome tanned but the smell is really obnoxious. Never come across it before but it really attacks the senses. It's very much a chemical smell and I can't work with it. Do I bin it or put it in the washing machine?

Some stamps have more pronounced bits on the corners so you line up by putting the raised bits in the dimple made by the last imprint.

I'd go with Gorilla first. It's the only one that foams and expands. Remember to dampen the area. It needs moisture to work, will get into those braid cavities. Of course roughing the clasp will always help.

My only consideration would be - can I get my head over the top of the work without getting a bad back? My worktop sits atop a singer table and luckily works out ok. As for cracking; If you can work out where you'll do the most bashing, make sure there's a solid leg under it rather than having to move your work to get over an existing leg

Apparently America will be no more. https://www.independent.co.uk/news/world/americas/us-politics/trump-sean-spicer-newsmax-america-b1920400.html

My bad Mule. Should've looked harder. Must've had a senior moment sorry.

Great job and nothing to snag the thread. not easy to do. All it needs to be perfect is some kind of grab on the strap under the seat so you don't have to keep your foot on it.

This looks really good. Just hang it on a couple of hooks on the door or wall and carry it anywhere. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Yuede-Organizer-Zippered-Pockets-Multi-Purpose/dp/B092Z43N1K/ref=sr_1_17_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=Tool+Roll&qid=1630335741&sr=8-17-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyUVlWUzJZTFcyOEVDJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTMyNjIzMVowQTRYRUVMTk9PRSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNzA5MDMxMkxTNFZUTFhHWTNVWCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX210ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

I hope it didn't come across as a criticism. Many people like that antique look, especially for decorative sets. Does it lay flat easily?

Great job! He'll have that forever. Made me wonder if the white squares could be made lighter without painting. Can veg tan be bleached? Has anyone tried it?

You beat me to it Klara. I like Dikmans one but I was going to suggest making the cam lock wider and incorporating a piece of bungee similar to yours to stop the snagging.

For normal sewing the hinge isn't needed. Just angle the center piece so you have around 1/4 inch gap after you include the leather. The biggest problem is coming up with a clamping method that won't be forever snagging the thread.

I don't know how much ivory we're talking about but maybe if all the contraband ivory was sold to the open market at cost the cost of ivory would plummet and it would no longer be worth the risk to the poachers.

Footfall is the common name for the amount of people going throuigh a mall or an event etc. Great that the missus is ok with being the "Barker" (That's what it's called). A good Barker will often make the difference. If using closed-in gazebo type stall using lights during daylight will often pay dividends, especially if overcast. Not only does it highlight your wares but if you use tables around the sides rather than across the front it welcomes people in. The show season over here is quite short because of our weather. There are some out of season shows but they tend to be smaller. I imagine you have a longer season weatherwise.

I did the shows a while back but not with leather and here in the UK not the US. Regardless of what you sell or where you sell it you'd be wise to hinder therse rules. Footfall. Every show promoter will make his show sound like it's a must-do but you want to know how many people attended last time. If the footfall is big enough you'll make money even if the show is not directly related to what you sell. You're after the ones that are left after you take out those that are just taking the kids out dor the day or those that are looking for inspiration for their own ideas or those that turn up just for the attractions and those that just don't have any money. A big footfall gives more chance of making your day. Over here we have someting called "The Showmans Directory". It lists every show with all the contact details AND the footfall. Be aware though that if it's a free show some will list the entire surrounding population. I've noticed a lot of "Internationals" in there too. Of course the fee for pitching a stall is usually based on popularity and/or footfall. Book early in the season else all the good spots will be taken and you'll be pitching in the car park. Don't make your table/s too cluttered. If you have a lot of something good at the right price make a feature of it by placing it on it's own table. It will sell far more than in the middle of clutter. Sometimes shows can go on into the evening. Having lights around your stall means you can carry on trading whilst others have to pack up. Signage: Be as artistic or innovative as you like but unless you're an artist print them and laminate them. It gives more confidence in the quality than a handwritten scrawl and easy to clean for the next time. Coverings: Put some thought into what colour your wares are sitting on. It's important. And make sure you have enough to go around the front of your tables and the back of your pitch to deter the tealeafs. Best of luck.

Is the PNW a thing or a place???

Here ya go. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=center+console+Cechaflo

I'd be surprised if Checaflo on YouTube doesn't have the answer to this. The man is a genius with anything car related.

Not a walking foot but it looks cheap to me for someone in the UK Ad on Facebook Marketplace in the UK.

I love your enthusiasm for what you're doing. Everyone should feel something similar. I don't do patterns. I enjoy working things out in my head. I might jot down the gyst of what I'm thinking so I get it clearer in my mind. I'll use a ruler and common sense to get to the size I want and work out what needs skiving and what order to do things in. I don't need fast and I don't need extremely accurate for most of it and there are very few that I'll make again. I made a wooden form to wet mould a pouch to hold my Pard night vision. Worked out very well but I've never used it since. My output isn't great mainly because I'm on my own and retired. What I do make goes to family and friends or is sitting on the shelves because I'll never get back what I've put in. I need to look for a leatherwork buddy. That'll do it. Then maybe I'll look at one of those resin ones.

I keep threatening to get a 3d printer but I'm a sod for losing interest in something once I've proven to myself that I can do it. I do have a laser engraver and that's not getting overworked either. But back to the dies. Start with the right thickness ply for the size of rule steel and the thickness of leather you want to deal with. It's no good making a perfect die if there's nnot enough blade sticking out to go through thr leather. Draw your accurate die shape on the ply but don't cut it yet. Use that drawing to constantly test your bends on as you get the steel rule into shape. Only when your steel rule is ready do you cut out your ply. I made my first basic die with two 6inch nails with the heads cut off in a decent sized vice. An ordinary set of Gilbows will make short work of cutting the steel. (make sure you're using 2 point steel rule and not 3 point.) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/164869157349?hash=item2662f7b1e5:g:L8cAAOSwTMpgoRoo and one of these will make the screw holes, (a drill will do it but fiddly) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224242689947?epid=3015943430&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item3435e7e79b:g:xI4AAOSwoexfuDXt&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAACkPYe5NmHp%2B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsSvtkx670Z0mbyfWqmxLFLYW%2BaSx3niIF%2F1d%2Bl8Wg0woZHbZXocL5cf39NgZFMdIWWRSC5XElcIVKAedRwiawfnr%2FxC93e5QDsveVB8rPMOw%2Faq%2FkbYgWyMEJ4LhSQCLNx8MNLWiLd8buEKkWOQMLtM5unsG2LhZAGsYZjTLCL9M56aMWi5RCxt%2BS7jaUkFh9LWYPrwz%2Bs9TkxxQ3tNKYE74ucw2%2BN%2Fxn3LwxPZzeb%2BWjp8B%2BpgAJyRjwxRb0OYlAiQBCrca6r%2FpzVlM9%2BnWu%2FCegr23To0cc5agDY4i0WxM65nKsGVB%2BBdJgXxGf2VkMTA63219eyZpGXtffTTfmYKy2L72yosX%2BYIcOZYJ2tZxU%2B%2BcWnzbkgWOpglT0BZAE4U5AKaxec2B1VB5FSd%2F%2BH%2B6gReBtt75cy7xkwzgbBO0eS6jTSWVtrEm7QEzieYyBsdmyXzfzdlCNRE4O8uTSdWSrsn%2BB82%2FYVNRdkIHD%2BqEvVq8zGb7CxWZjUvXBUKaLPug4U22qjVTCYq1uNW0YWgK%2FBe872rxbVxijuhGxkkbGR8XsbyUQk2%2BG1LLsftx9c1K2qd9MzbDt%2F%2FV8g99CCPKpJ4DGBfv40y7opng6g%2BSmEjbCWbToY5aa%2FHfFH0To04kDlKEnVELQEHq%2BSS2lTn2W6H5NxwYpEwbHAXpPt2HvmDejw5TsrsoJhzEq9xZsVFm9g%2BhfH3EfXDesfpmEFEO%2FRKKSy6sQEHh7guwPxDADxhhdBq%2FzF25A41wWTc8yDTCyEm%2BAD3e82TVfRqZZN3hBT1N41EDwDxDso%2B5QWXf7y4BXDh8Tr3tvCNJPMqC0g|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2334524 One other thing, by using a plywood plug you do have some scope for extra bit's. If you look closely at my pic of the luggage tag you'll see a thin line going top to bottom. I did that with a jigsaw and it contains just a straight piece of R/S which cuts a slit in the underside of that orange tag which allows you to put your data card in the plastic window..

Who said that?