toxo

Never been aginst the idea of a printed plug but fixing it to the outside leaves you with the same thing as a welded die. it's never gonna last as long and putting in the secondary cuts like hole cutters etc are outside my scope but probably doable with 3d/cnc.

I don't get all this talk about spending loadsa money. If setting up to sell lots of dies that's fine but for most leatherworkers just using a die for a limited run a plywood plug as I describe above is a no brainer. It can br done in a fraction of the time, it negates the necessity of most of the conversation above. No worries about the depth of the groove (the press hits the back of the steel rule so a perfectly even cut every time) If the groove is too deep or the blank is made from too soft material and the steel rule cuts through the back end the center plug is gonnaq fall out.

I like this style from Tony See but I would alter it so the whole thing opens out. The length is easy enough to change and the ends remain as they are. I thought about this when he first did the design but I already have four DeWalt carry bags. Imagine the whole thing in one piece except the ends (no need for the straps) now put a groove (hinge) along the inside of the shoulder. Put whatever fasteners you like to snap the side to the ends. Now you've got a bag where you can open to the shoulder for easy access or open up the whole thing or just one side as necessary. This was off the top of my head with no details worked out but eminently doable I would've thought.

There are those that will tell you that pre-punched holes take material away and thus weaken the leather which essentially must be true BUT we're not holding the Titanic here so it's a pretty weak argument in my book. I would say there are times when both can be used. Try sewing a decent curve with both methods and you'll find out which is quickest and easiest but sometimes quickest and easiest isnt the objective.

Grrr! Hit the wrong button so have to do it all again. This pattern uses pre-punched holes which although not essential make curves easier because each stitch pulls a little bit more of the curve so no need for glue although a couple of clips might help. As for the gusset, you used the gusset as the inside layer but you could just as easily used it as the outside layer or, as I did on the darker bag, one side in and one side out which gives the gusset a kind of "S" shape. You didn't make it easy on yourself by using leather that was twice as thick as necessary. If it has to be that thick you could skive the half inch or so around where the stitches will go and /or dampen around the edges. As a beginner you should look at Tony Sees patterns at Dieselpunk.Ro. He's a great guy with a great sense of humour and all of his patterns come with a video tutorial. He's becoming a bit of a cult figure over at ... https://www.facebook.com/groups/dieselpunkro/?multi_permalinks=3821095971350671 It's a great community and every so often he gives away a free pattern to those in the group. This was one of them although I think you have to pay for it now.

FYI, You can make a bag with a different look by sewing the gusset/front panel the other way round. These two bags are made from the same pattern with a completely different look. The strange looking strap was worked out so it can be worn as a belt bag or an over the shoulder.

Some good advice there. This time I just used the old strap as a pattern and just used the ripstop to reinforce the holes but I usually do go the oversize and cut back route.I do have one of those "C" type skivers that works well with thin stuff.

I do have a 4ft tube that goes over the 2ft arm and being an engineer I have a feel for how far I can go but where it does come in handy is when you're using cased leather and you can hang a heavy weight on the end of it and leave it to dry.

Thanks Amigo.

I bought a cheap watch which I like and it tells me the time, however, inevitably the strap started to fall apart but I was intrigued because althoughit was almost in half where "my" hole was I was still able to wear the thing.I reasoned that there must be something between the crap layers to enable it to do that. I eventually guilted myself into making a new strap and on cutting it open there is a plastic mesh inside. I'm waiting for the glue to dry and I'm using "Croc" chrome tan on the outside and pigskin on the inside and in lieu of the plastic mesh I glued in two layers of rip stop nylon. I've never made a watch strap in my life and my question is, when using proper leather is the ripstop/plastic mesh necessary?

Well done that man. Nothing better than teaching a child something and then watching them race away with it.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221946532591

I use a 1 ton arbor press with a longer bar for die cutting and stamping and it works quite well. Of course I have to "walk" the material under the ram on bigger stamps and sometimes I dampen the leather but I don't have a production line going on. There are various types of strong "G clamp" types or engineers vices out there that will work or you can buy a hydraulic press or make one using a car "bottle jack".

Seeing the scarcity and assuming you're not the only one who would like to get their hands on some of these, why not buy a box and sell what you don't need? I'm sure Partwell will accomodate you and I don't think the shipping will be that bad to Belgium.

Partwell in the UK but don't know if they have outlets over there. Comes in boxes of 60/90 meter lengths. If you just want a few look for a commercial die maker who might sell you some.

It wasn't that particular one that piqued my interest. It was the design. The extra length between the shank and the blade should mean more force at the blade for less effort. It also looks like you could see your line a lot more clearly than when leaning over your hand with a swivel knife. Maybe someone could make something out of a cut down swivel knife to prove or disprove the concept.

I have an exacto type with a small swivel blade on the end and I didn't think much of it but I was wondering how much difference the shape of this one would make. If you watch the video, if it hasn't been doctored it does seem easy to use. Would it be the same if it were "leather size"?

I was thinking more about how that design follows a line? And how deep does the initial cut have to be?

I can't believe that all you guys that have extolled the virtues of this swivel knife or that swivel knife, or this angle or that angle have absolutely nothing to say about this?

Not promoting it for anything. Just saw it and............ https://www.comfybear.co.uk/products/craft-cutting-tools?variant=39394681192526

Good effort but cut your nails next time.

A friend of mine used to import and sell various stuff from Thailand. I always said " It's marvellous what a Thailander? can make with a few sticks of wood" After reading some of this thread I thought back to Harley Davidsons they make out of a bunch of reeds.They ranged from 6 inches long to full size. Obviously they don't make the reeds or the occassional pins or the paint/lacquer but those bikes were made with a pair of hands and a knife. That's handmade. Every other definition is an individuals personal agenda and always will be.

This is listed on Facebook and it's sitting on a proper singer cast table and has been motorised. It also comes with a second unknown machine. I asked for a price and he evetually came back with, "make me an offer"

Did you not read the PM I sent you Folker? The guy eventually got back to me saying "make me an offer".

Wrap some fine emery paper around the right size rod for the size of the teeth. You could even use a wooden dowel with some of the honing compound on it. Nothing to lose.