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Thanks Folker. All was going well for a change but can't get a new belt 'til Monday. Me being the impetuous fool that I am will make a leather one. Can't fine tune the needle positioner 'til it's runnning properly. I will work it out but does anyone know what the third stop plate is for on the needle positioner? The limited Chinese destructions only allude to two (Upper stop and lower stop). The servo pulley on the 239 is 55mm and I had a spare 45mm but the bore is too big so I made a shim/bush out of a baked bean tin. Not perfect but it's working. I'll replace it when I find a better one. My project room now looks like a bombs gone off in there. Can't wait to get some semblance of order so I can do something constructive.

Yes! Got it sewing reasonably well. . Decided to celebrate by putting on the new 250mm pulley I got the other day. Almost got it done, new belt too small by a smidgen. Never mind. Have to take a small piece out of the table and move the bobbin wiinder anyway. Still, two pieces of 0.9mm. I'll take that after all this time.

Get yer coat.

Spot on Folker! Well done. Got it sewing (without thread) but still too low. It's marking one layer of 2.4 Veg tan even with the top screw almost off. . So how do I raise it up? The rest is pretty good. will probably need fine tuning but hook is meeting the middle of the scarf, Stitch length is good.

Made me laugh out loud.

Thanks for the reply Wiz. Don't know what you mean by crank shafts. had the spring out a couple times. very rarely use manual lift so that doesn't bother me, I'll replace it one day. The "block I'm guessing is the thing I'm pointing to in on of the pics. Thought I had it earlier. Was working but not much lift on the outside foot. Had the eye a sixteenth below the hook, had the needle and the inside foot at the feed dog at the same time but but no lift. Tried to tune it but didn't get far. I'll have another go tomorrow but at least I can see a glimmer of light at the end of the tunnel. Thanks for the PDF but I already have a parts list. Been working with Singer 111 and Adler 69 service manuals but they're both different (but similar) to the 239 when it comes to the outer foot shaft.

OK. I'm getting worried now. Either the hive doesn't know the answer or no one wants to help ☹️.

Wonderful stuff. You certainly have an eye for design and you have learned well the value of excellent photography. Well done.

I think I can tune it if I can just get the presser foot to work properly. I think I've pinpointed the bit I messed up last time. Here's some pics. I think I loosened this screw and the lug had completely dropped out of the cavity and now I can't get the outside presser foot to raise. I also undid this screw and now I'm not sure where this block should be. Here I'm holding the manual lift lever (the end of the arm is broken off). It's flopping about and there's about 6mm between it and the piece it's supposed to ride on. I've said sod it a couple of times and been on the verge of giving up on it but i won't, that's not me but clearly I need some help here guys please

No reason why not. Temperature can be critical depending on what foil you buy. A point and shoot type thermometer makes it easy. Don't leave it on there too long. A quick tap and off. The tricky bit is lining things up because the work is hidden by the foil. You might want to think about doing it on some scrap and then cutting out and sewing it on like a patch.

I have this set for my Durkopp 239. they are handy. When you find them for the Juki I think they'll be considerably more expensive. I know they were for my Adler 69 although the blurb says they're for Juki.

That kind of bag is commonly called a tote. Unless you want to carry extremely heavy items the thickness of that one is well overkill. There are lots of videos that will show you how to do it. The easiest way is to cut your material @ twice the height plus the width of the bottom. 14 inches high plus a 4inch bottom = 32inches x the width say 14 inches. Find the center of the 32 and mark a line. cut a 4 inch square at each end of the centerline using the line as halfway, so 4inches in and 2inches either side of the centerline. Cut out those 4 inch squares. Now you have a shape that you could broadly call an "H". Now put the two top edges together keeping the good side to the inside. sew down each side. when you get to the "Holes" you bring it together in such a way that you have a 4 inch bit with a corner sticking out. You can either sew along the 4 inch line and cut off the surplus or cut the surplus off first and then sew. Then turn the right way out and sort out you handles.

This video helps my problem but the two screws that Uwe is call the eccenter look the same to me except one of them is in a groove in the shaft so I figured I shouldn't mess with that. The Singer 111 service manual says loosen one and turn the other to move the outside presser foot but I got no joy doing that. I'll have another go doing it Uwe's way even if I have to move the screw out of the groove.

After playing with the "69" for a few months I cleared up around the old 239 cos i have a job for a flatbed. Then I was reminded that it was "put away wet" as you yanks might say. I vaguely remember a problem with it but it was put on the back burner because the Adler 69 came along. All is well at the moment except I have the outside presser foot jacked up and it won't come down. I think I'm on top of the rest of it if I can just undo what I did to jack it up in the first place. I think I was trying for more height back then. Won't be doing that again. Any help gratefully received. A link to a service manual would be handy. I have an instructors manual but that's not much good. Is the Singer 111 family close enough to be of help? There's no service manual available for Durkopp.

Great job! So nice to see something other than flowers and scrolls.

First of all, I've never made a wallet in my life yet but I've been asked to do some coin purses and was given an old one as a sort of template. Obviously the leather was very thin but behind the leather was a thin layer of foam and I was struck by how luxurious and warm it felt in my hand. I should add that behind the foam was a stiff, thin piece of plastic that stopped it being floppy. I have to admit to being jealous of the build. The turned edges were very small and the stitches were tiny. I know these things are possible when using machines that are permanently set up for one particular job.

Thanks guys. Found some on Ebay. I do have some small bits @ 6mm/18mm/50mm. Was thinking I might have to hot wire it.

Well I didn't get any joy with the splitter question but maybe someone can point me to some thin foam like they put in wallets?

I just got an economy veg tan side and a 3kilo bundle From Zack at J Wood. The side was ok but the bundle was far from ok. I was hoping to get some 3 inch squares for some patchwork. What I got was mostly the edges left over from the die press bin. That was £40+ and I've just seen they've increased it to £50+. Won't be doing that again.

Hello hive mind. Can you help me please? I think I'm gonna get one for veg tan anyway but I'm beginning to amass lot's of 3inch squares for patchwork but they're various collections of thicknesses, now do I make piles of each thickness or attempt to split all to a uniform size. Forgive me if this seem strange but I seem to have a sort of brain fart because it took five attempts to write the previous sentence. As much as I'd like a nice hand crank splitter it ain't happening. I'm thinking one of the cheap ones with replaceable blades rather one with the solid knife that has to be sharpened. I'm thinking roughly £70 to £150. Thoughts please.

I'm really not understanding the pushback here. Did no one read my previous post? I'll post the two relevant parts again. Here's the cost for everything except the 40mm motor pulley.More torque at the machine. An hour to fit. What's the reduction for a 250mm and a 40mm Wiz?

Here's the original post i did including the cost. It's called a taper lock pulley and the hole in the center is the same for all sizes. It's the bush that goes on the shaft that you order with the pulley for your shaft. the set screws lock everything together. Here's one company in the US. https://pulley.biz/pulley-manufacturer-in-united-states-of-america/#:~:text=Taper Lock Pulley In United States Of America,patron’s requisites regarding our products specifications and sizes.

You guys certainly like to spend money. For less than £50 I replaced the handwheel with a 250mm pulley and replaced the pulley on the motor with a 40mm one and now can do one stitch at a time and it took less than an hour to do. You guys constantly never offer this as a solution but never say why.

It'll come. Just remember to not pull your hair out until you've got all the ducks in a row. Getting one thing right without the others being right will have you pulling your hair out. even that little spring thingy has an important job.

Well done on making the leap to a machine Phil. Hope to see mucho productivity from here on in.