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In some projects it may help with some silicone liquid applied to the juki Felt # B1131 528 000. In most projects you would not need or want this application. Although they made it for a reason, and it obviously has had a benefit to a large company. This part is tough to argue as I personally havent as they have spent millions on proven test and for this have happy customers. good day Floyd

At this time, Im liking how the Zoom Spout container is proving out. I haven't yet just cut the 12” extendable tube, off. Though I constantly consider it needs to be shorter. Probably 4-5” would be plenty. I first leaned towards them ( even if I fill my own ) because mine have not leaked. Or I should say the lid is a precision seal, vs the typical machine drip bottle, container/oiler bottle. These others I have are from a juki part number, and work ok but its obvious the lids to container contact need attention in both uses. And a towel under the oil bottle assembly is helpful as the flipping over to use as oiler shows. Good day Floyd

In my confident thought on your specfic question, my answer is the Juki 1541 in any sub class can perform that task 8 hours per day at least! With its typical maintenance and lube schedule within the factory manuals. I really am confident its not a big deal task, what is in question in my opinion is the very same that would be in question on a Juki 441 with even bigger needles. That in my opinion is first the sew speed to which the needle heats up and melts the thread. Second is both these machines will jack up a needle if the material is jerked, so moving the needle to hit adjacent parts. These above and following are just my first considerations as another owner. Some of our projects I think we all would agree, benefit from thread size first by our most basic securement requirement. These then are probably marketed as much by our visual appeal although the task or use of the product would never warrant the bigger threads hefty appeal. I can change my opinion later as life is sure an education. Though confident enough to have just setup one. A basement stored, new found machine purchase ( in another state i had to travel for ) brand new Juki 1541 ( no S ). I’ve replaced the new clutch motor. Powering with a new Sew quiet 6k and running it through a Cowboy box reducer. Made very very few lunches out on the town for a good while to again pull this off. Being semi retired we learn to make trade offs and for sure lasting choices. Have a good day Floyd

Is there anymore results here on the needle position. Paticularly in and through the hole and feed dog, as you know it should be centered. Im curious of the above when the needle is not in a bind below. Those tips on checking the shuttle and shim area for debris is a great check, keep us posted. Its your lucky day with all these tips being posted, and before any above references to look at. Good day Floyd ps: Item of reference pg. 3 items 30 & 31 http://leatherworker.net/forum/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=103092

Yes it does show on the needle that its trashed from hitting something and so will always cut/tear the thread as it passes up or down through the material. I should ask if this is a different size or bigger needle than previous in your setup. Just curious in that question, if the hook clearance now could be a bit close. In any case a needle change has to be made even if the clearence is ok. Sometimes we bump or just move the material and force the needle to bend and hit something in its path with this same needle tip result. There are some adjustments in the needle position, though a bit more discussion could help in determination. Good day Floyd

A big congratulations on the new sew machine. I have a nice bobbin storage tip for you all. Especially being the mention of all these bobbins that are just handy to have with other thread types loaded! With colors and for sure sizes of thread. I have to say even with access to the normal drawer on the machine table stands for storage, a few of these, Plano fishing storage containers #3449 are real handy I have found. These are a bit clear in color, have a 5 compartment capacity that has ample storage. Each of these compartments can hold 3 of the 441 type bobbins or 6 of the U types and the same 6 of the M style. Picked up a few more (last in the box) the other day, at a buck fifty each. It was a sale to! Have a good labor day weekend Floyd ps: these boxes measure, 4.125” x 6.5” plus a hanger.

In reality only you can determine your options to sell a product. I say that because that is first, before the tooling. Im sure you have read many articles on these in particular leather sew machines. They consist of some great tips to more effectively produce good results and operator usage. I want to respectfully emphasize how some here in or on the forum can adjust a machine in Very short order. This ability can be understood as only a lifetime of experience with these machines. In this I can positively say the only quick or in short order change to smart’n up or the dumbing down a sew machine is the change of thread color. Anything else is uh well the very reason factories dont do it quickly. The tip I can provide is selecting projects that don’t require much if any machine change. This will be easier to focus on machine, budget and a sales goal. good day Floyd

As I look at the split pin, that the bobbin is pushed on with slight force. The pin itself is or has and has to have more expansion toward operator as you know. Im looking at one with .22” diameter at machine and .24” operator end dia. this seems to hold bobbins fine around here. It has an approximate or easy gap of a 120/19 needle thickness, above the scarf area. Good day Floyd ps: i forget the stainless lever has to be pushed down onto bobbin thread area.

I’m quite sure the folder in the video is not made here in the US, although as mentioned you can get custom folders/binders made here. I have heard of shops in both of these states Tennessee;TAC and Georgia;Atlanta attachment. These are two Professional outfits doing this and much more complex manufacturing involved in sewing stuff. Im sure there are other custom shops around the world also, I have just heard of these areas here in the States. As always we many times think a job or task is a certain worth or a certain amount of time to do. This is always a very interesting topic I think, as I’m always curious of the experience of one so involved from these projected assessments. Time saving is always something to discuss in production. Good day Floyd

In my experience it is much easier on a person and purchaser to first focus on the machine needed to do the specific job with great ability. I say that to avoid any self enticement toward particular machines that maybe could if “ doing this “ or under this certain change. I think in your products soley as a biz for visual and reenactment products. The thread could be smaller in a security stand point yet the machines effeciency to produce the products ( on either end of your spectrum) is just not there in both scenarios, just as a director simply needs additional actor in the same scene. Its just not fun for the same actor to go do a change up for a different person. The options possibly could be materials used in your products being more compatible for a machine size selection. To me the wholesale/consignment is again two distinct business model differences. In that consignment is always involved with a rental space cost. Im positive we all would like to help here and respectfully a bit more narrowing of choices can help your final decisions. Good day Floyd

I am sure with some of the typical typical back country canvas gear, new and old. A upholstery class machine will be a good option. Im not sure on your budget in this extra side task series of projects. So with that I really think its best to consider project size. Honestly I respectfully say that because many here have machines to sew through thick material, yet when 30 feet of canvas is pulling off the other side of the table and room it is concerning. Some would be surprised just how much can be rolled and stuffed through/ under the standard machine. But! when its 20, 30 or 40 feet plus long! its in another balpark, respectfully. Strange as it sounds that ballpark table in front of your machines needs to include the same behind ya I can’t imagine how much extra coffee that the sew machine dealers may have to go through listening to these exact scenarios ( but that is worth a grin ) anyways they can sure speed up a machine choice decision with theirs and these experiences they hear about daily. good day to ya Floyd

If the foam and box were intact, thats strange, but has great possibilities. Im guestimating here with; 200.00 each for motor, stand, hand/pulley wheel. We would of course need shipping for these items at 150.00 so were running close to 1,350.00 total less any extra presser feet options later and any buyer fees. All together with a good inspection of the casting, your in a great position. You've had great day Floyd

Turning the thread guide down could help a bit. Although I dont believe that is the real problem. I would take a look at the disc surfaces by removing them for an inspection. Floyd

Are you saying you discovered that the thread was not down in between securely in the tension disc “ totally” at start up. As it cannot ride on top even though between sorta. I understand, thats for sure will be loose if one rides the knee lift bumper, that happens to us all at sometime. Good day there Floyd

Some of the main issues in that link were thread path as I re-looked at the photos. In your post here, in this try out segmentwhat have you done differently. Also I wonder how much tension is on the top thread. This is always a curious thing. Good day Floyd

Uwe: I want to thank you for this explanation. This thread guide has been an interest for awhile. These professional tips and design facts you have provided about this part with its adjustment features are great! In my machines future adjustments I can now work on in the days ahead, and certainly have an understanding how to better set this thread guide. Really appreciate the help, and Have a great day Floyd

Im looking for some clues on how this particular thread guide plays a role. Adjustment of this guide is up or down and can be turned and mounted upside down. This is on Juki 1341, 1541 several 1500 series and I have seen it on some other brands including Consew https://www.sewingpartsonline.com/thread-guide-juki-21355805.aspx in the below pic, item 9 is the location Thanks for your help, its appreciated Floyd

Many people have an option to change the motors pulley to the smallest diameter they can get for that motor shaft. This likely requires a v-belt change also, and is probably the cheapest and best you can do with that setup. Though speed is definitely noticeable its not crawlin slow by any stretch. Another very good addition is to lengthen that typical clutch motors lever, the foot pedal link is connected to. So these clutch types do not have ability to slow the actual motor down. Moving from that a photo of that machine area could help in descriptions. In other considerations a servo motor may be an option, and this is a good time to ask one or call one of the dealers that are posting in this machine area. Have a good day Floyd

Well congrats! I think you made a focused decision. Now just narrowing it down to calling Alexander or Bob on the 3200. It will be great to hear from you in the times ahead with other machine selections benefitting your company. This is fun spending others money Good day Floyd

With your 246 clone is there any movement up and down in that gear and shaft in your photo. Had been curious just how these played a role with pfaff design On a side note, Kinda wish my class 4 had a oil pan like you've shown ? I just keep a paper shop towell in there as theres no cast iron bottom rather just the table top. Its an updating i guess they made the bottom section on the 1341 a cast iron pan, with a threaded drain hole. If’n you decide to pull that all apart it might be a great video post in itself. Checking end play and gear paint pattern mesh and all. Its sure worth a call to the tech. Their daily task with these is hard to pass up Floyd

I hear a few different areas to try and distingquish. I suspect one is the binder part touching in a constant, then the later one that seems to vari in its movement. Is there an option to veiw the hook during this run to try the seperation of these. Also is the speed a part in the various noise levels help in elimination. Im also curious of the bobbin fill and placement and just all that area we all flashlight into. Good day there Floyd

I seriously think the choice in the projects requiring thread size you want is your best path. This can be thinner or thicker material thickness in the same products of others. In that your post title or description is excellent! It is tough for sure, but there is a initial reason for all this hobby of yours, so its that path to keep in narrow focus. Good day Floyd

Do you use the same needle size in the other machine. Possibly with bigger thread, just curious why the 140 vs a 110 maybe. Not that this would have a big effect here, but i do like to ask. Have a good day Floyd

How about using some chicago screws, in the same way. Squared good day there Floyd

I think your narrowing it down! If you could at the present decide just how thick of thread you want or dont want to “see” on your double layerd belts this will shorten the deciding process. Im pretty sure most people find a median in their projects that require little change in their machine adjustments. This is also the very same problem why you see a couple different machines in their future. Im not sure the reason factories do this but i think its just to be cool So to really nail it down, a mention of wallet designs of interest specfically or a few photos may help others fine tune their answer to help. IE my biker friends wallets on a chain that some use. These tend to use bigger thread for looks mostly, not that 138 and under isn't perfectly fine. In that example; under one tent there maybe all gear with 138 and under thread and his or her buddys tent next may have all big thread in the same gear. In that I can mean gear that doesnt really require that thread strength. But unless ya have a friend that you can help offset this specific and probably promote each other, well ya just have to make the decision. Good day Floyd