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garypl

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Everything posted by garypl

  1. Nice job! Unless you are really good at painting, I think it would look good antiqued.
  2. Tandy Leather makes a bag stiffener sheet - comes in a large piece for @$9.00 https://tandyleather.com/products/bag-stiffener?_pos=1&_sid=bad92e8dc&_ss=r
  3. I think you did a fine job for your first project. Only concern I would have is the D ring attached with rivets. Could a large dog pull them loose? I like to use larger D rings behind the outer strip so there is no pulling on rivets.
  4. When I sew something with multiple layers I scribe my stitch line on the top piece before gluing up the layers. I normally scribe the line 3/16" in from the edge to provide a little more support. After stitching, I sand the edges to make all the layers even and then dye and finish the edges. Have to admit that I usually get a bit nervous when stitching holsters that total @12mm in thickness at the edge! If I let the piece tilt just a little or if the needle hits a hard spot somewhere inside the layers and deflects, the bottom stitch can come out the side and that ruins my day!
  5. I’ve been sewing a bit using the narrow plate and feed dog on my CB4500 and am very pleased with the results. Latest project was a holster I sewed with 277 thread. Reverse stitch at the top slipped when the left presser foot slipped off the inside edge of the welt on the reverse stitch, but that was my fault! It was 5 layers of 8-9 oz veg tan and new parts worked just fine. I like the idea of widening the range of weights I can sew on my 4500 projects using a wider range of threads.
  6. I keep a small bushing handy when I want to add a snap in leather that’s a bit too thick. I put it over the snap post and give it a couple of good whacks to compress the leather around the post. You can also put the snap post between the two layers of leather so it only has to go through a single layer.
  7. Really nice holster work! Only observation is why did you run the stitching so far away from the trigger guard out to the barrel? Your stitching looks great and is tight around the rest of the gun, except for the section mentioned above. Nice job! Gary
  8. I received the set I bought a few weeks ago and it works great! Delivery to the USA took a couple of weeks. I have sewed some 2-3 oz pieces as well as some totaling 20 oz and everything ran like a charm. Nice addition to my CB4500 and thanks again to Brian for developing the set. Gary
  9. Could always use a Conway buckle to attach the ends together
  10. These are an excellent resource if you want to make holsters and they are hard to find anywhere!
  11. You have more patience than me! Nice job and I enjoy seeing the cool projects you make
  12. Looks great Y - that stitching looks like it was very tedious to do while keeping everything tight. Any tricks you learned that helped? Also, what weight leather did you use? Gary
  13. I have used this method and it works great. I always line the belt so once you glue and sew on the lining the loops cannot move.
  14. Amazon sells razor blades that work great in strap cutter. Here is a link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VQPFK68/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  15. Looks great! Is it just a sample panel or is it part of a project? Gary
  16. Brian - that is a great website you put together - congratulations! Gary
  17. Very ingenious how you put all the components together - nice job! only constructive comment I have is that the rivets seem to be longer than necessary. I usually cut them so only @1.5 to 2 mm is sticking out past the burr. Once you dome and peen it, there’s not a noticeable post sticking out past the burr.
  18. I agree and I think a small dab of rubber cement would hold things in place yet allow easy future removal or adjustment. Rubber cement in an application like this would not be a very strong bond.
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