Colt W Knight

Excellent carving.

Thanks for the kind words Bob.

I use to be a very active member on a guitar website, and I posted a lot of blogs on building electric guitars because I thought it would stop folks from asking the same questions over and over. folks liked my directions because I laid them out in simple 1,2,3... format. Then folks asked even more questions, so I started posting picture tutorials. Well then people would look at the pictures but not read the text and I got even more questions. Then I tried doing some video tutorials, and it was just too much work and people didnt appreciate all the work. They would just criticize that either the video was too short, too long, didnt specifically cover what they wanted to do, or they requested videos on completely unrelated topic. It got to be too much, and I quit. I was getting too many emails and pms asking me to hold their hands through projects. I hate long winded videos on youtube. I wont watch a video if they dont get right into it or if they go off on tangents. And I really dont like the vlogs people post thinking they are some kind of pseudo celebrity.

They are called Prevail sprayers. Ive had mixed luck with them.

That's pretty bad ass

Ive used hundreds of tandy double cap rivets using the concave anvil and punch, and I have never had an issue either.

Im holding out for the Cowboy 4500 package. I was hand sewing everything, and I bought a used Consew 206, and I was able to pay for the machine in a few weeks with projects I sewed on the machine. When I was hand stitching, a guitar strap took me 4-6 hours and my hand were wrecked for days afterwards. The machine sews a guitar strap in less than 5 minutes with prep time and all. I could see buying the Tippman if I needed something portable or needed soemthing small for storage.

I would much rather have the motorized machine, but the Boss has some advantages as it can sew with heavier thread, thicker leather, and is portable.

It probably wont smear, but the dye will most likely bleed some. I always rub recently dyed leather with a cloth until it quits rubbing off, then apply the clear coat. Fiebings pro oil dye bleeds a lot less than any other dye I have used.

I made a nice supplemental income off my leatherwork while in graduate school, and I am not even very good at it. When I tried advertising and making some more money, the hassle and dealing with the general public sucked all the fun out of it.

Good to hear Tandy is actually cheaper on something. I just got a renewal notice in the mail for my membership, but I am not going to renew. Their quality has gone down and prices have gone up on leather.

I got an email notification about Tandy carrying these recently, so I bet they are just hitting the shelves. Tippman has been making them and selling them for years though.

It is a PITA to host and upload photos on the site after the new format change recently. I would probably make a leather cap to replace that rubber one.

I would put them on my buffer with some rouge and polish them tona mirror finish

You can make your own with a SS bolt

Im seeing a mixture of dyes, antiques, and acrylics used on thise lovely pieces. They are using some cool techniques to get all that rich texture. I wish i coukd do it.

You need a smooth stamp. You can have custom things done in delrin or brass. I had my logo made up in Delrin and use it as a makers mark.

Warm water, dish soap, and a scrub brush should get rid of the mink oil. After that, you would need to use a heaver oil solvent to break down oil.

Alternating colors would look nice on western style guitar straps. I like the look. I would use it on anything that needs a little flair and has two tone brown dye job.

He liked the boots so much, he brought me a leather hat to paint to match. I mixed the color up and sprayed on about 3 coats using the airbrush. I cleaned witha healthy scrubbing of saddle soap prior.

I use extra virgin olive oil and swt it out in the sun.

THanks

I have the Goldstar press that I bought to set grommets in Cattle GPS collars I was making, and it is worth every penny for how much easier and quicker it made setting all those hundreds of grommets. However, I don't like the setup as much as the 1 ton arbor press because I have to stand behind the goldstar press to depress the lever. I would much rather have an arbor press that I would bolt to the my bench ( I make quick detaches so I can easily take my presses off for storage) and sit in front of so I can easily guide the leather into the die and depress the lever. This wouldn't be a big deal if you are only doing a few rivets, buttons, or grommets at a time, but its a huge pain when setting a lot. But for just a few, I still use my hand tools. I have to agree with RedBear, I get better and more consistent results using a press, and anytime I don't have to pound something with a hammer my ears are happier, and the reduced pounding doesn't flare up my essential tremors in my hands.

When I saw the title, I said to myself, "ewww", but when I looked at your artwork, I was very impressed by how well done and clean everything is. That idea would be amazing on a series of comic book hero type straps. Kudos.

Vibrant colors like that, you have to use acrylic paints. Angelus makes a great selection of really nice acrylic leather paint. When applied in thin even coats from an airbrush, its very durable and the color is amazing.