rcsaddles

You could cut a few disks to get a more uniform thickness in your strings. My process is to cut one 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 inch wide strap from the hide. I start in the middle and corkscrew out. Then I stretch the strap between a coupld of posts, yea, could be 120 feet long, and scrape the hair off. Soak the strap in water until like spaghetti and then split it down to a uniform thickness which is only as thick as the thinnest part. Then I cut my strings for whatever I am making.

I have a good friend that owns the only Shoe repair/ saddle shop in town. I mean, he is the only store front, only source of income person doing this. He has refered people to me in the past for canvas repair and braiding work. He has also told me he is so busy he takes a long time to do little repair things. I have asked him what he charges for certain things because if someone comes to me and wants me to undercut him, I will not do it. In fact, to take a saddle apart, clean, repair and oil, I will charge at least $20.00 more because this man sends me work from time to time and I do not want to compete with him. This is a "hobby job" for me and I do not want to lose this man as a friend. Sure, I do have the word of mouth advertising around the area and people bring repair work to me. I have a few repeat customers that will not go to the saddle shop for stuff. I even go there to buy some items I do not keep on hand. The long and short of it is; if you want them to send others to you, maybe you should go to them and ask if they "need" a commision for the referal. It may cost you a few bucks now, but could be an income booster and the start of a great business relationship in the future. It is good to ask here and get many opinions but in the long run, do what your heart tells you. just my humble opinion. I don't want to step on any toes.

Here are a few pics of some flowers and vases I have done over the past few months.

Thanks for all the good info here. I will have to tune up my ceramic blade. Now what about teh ruby blades? Can they be sharpened also? I have two but one has the very tip broken off. Any way to reshape it or any thoughts on getting the ruby replaced? I'm considering taking it to a jeweler to see what it would cost to replace.

Ever wonder "Why didn't I think of that?" That is a great idea. Now i have to take all the clay and play dough away from the kids. This will be me when they ask what happened to all their stuff. Keep up the ideas. Someone should post this in the Carving and stamping hints and tips thread.

In my humble opinion, go on ebay and get a set of the cheap punches. Take them to your bench grinder to make your scalloped punches. They are good enough for that but don't cost a lot in case you ruin one.

I am looking forward to reading through all of these and putting your techniques to work for me. Like the others, I too appreciate you sharing your talent and expertise with us.

Welcome to the Forum. I am from Lewistown. Bee here a little over 4 years. Not sure how long ago your daughter had teh heart surgery bit will be praying for her recovery.

I have not seen these DVD's but have heard many people say they are very easy to follow and are great to learn from. I guess I would recommend you get it. I have the Ron Edwards books and for me, they are easier to follow than any other written form. Maybe Bryan from khww will chime in here and give an opinion.

Here are some things I made for a co-worker. He ordered these for his wife and mother in law. Sorry about the two pictures being sideways. I am still trying to learn how to work all these options. He has now gotten three more white calli lilies to replace the ones that were supposed to be burgandy.

Me too, I want to see some patterns. These look very nice. I am always looking for new projects to do especially braiding.

All great advise. Thats what I really like about this place. Everyone is so willing to help. When I went to saddle building school, I was taught to stick teh awl in from the backside a little way, (not even half thickness) and then stab from the front side. This makes a hole for the awl to find as you stab in. Of course the awl needs to be sharp and you need the control to not just shove the awl through. On the projects you can use in a horse or pony, do. It makes a world of difference.

None for sale but PM me with the thickness of what you want and I can send you a piece of 6" X 6".

Are you having trouble following the instructions or making it round? Ron Edwards has teh easiest instructions (IMHO) to follow. If it is getting it round then when you are done making the button, put it on your anvil and lightly pound it with a hammer to make it round. You can start lightly and increase the strenght as you need. Just roll the button as you go. Yes, leave it on the mandrel or whatever you worked the button on. Hope this helps. Have a great Thanksgiving.

That looks great. I'm sure your daughter will be proud of it for years to come. My question is how are you attaching it to the hat? Once again, looks great.

Hey Brian, In this post you talk about your cutter beveler. What exactly are you talking about? I am always on the lookout for abetter way to cut lace and bevel. Can you show us a picture?

With casing and carving being a weak point in my leatherwork, I will try to get a little info here also. When you have the formula, do you sponge it onto teh leather and then put it in a bag in the fridge? I have a fairly big carving project coming up and would like to know rather than make my own mistakes that others have made. Always better to learn from others mistakes rather than make them also. Thanks

Thanks much, Charlie. Just what I needed. If I can repay the favor, just ask. Thanks again.

Long story short, some folks here brought me three of these kits, (I think) that her brother had carved the backs. He passed away from cancer unexpectedly. His 13 year old son has no interest in leatherwork but they asked if I could finish the billfolds so they can give them to the son for Christmas. I told them of course I would. There are no addembly instructions for these and I have never done one. I someone has a set of assembly instructions I would appreciate a copy. If not, I will order one from Tandy and have one on hand to make. Once again, I think it is the Top Notch Billfold Kit that I have. Thanks,

Check with Kevin at Springfield Leather. He was looking at bringing in a line of wallet interiors. They seem to be a high quality and very consistant.

For a splitter for your roo lace I would check out www.midwestwhips.com Paul Nolan makes lots and lots of whip each year. The splitter he has is made in Australia and is about $105.00 plus shipping if I remember right. He has some on hand so can ship them fairly quickly. He also has a lace cutter that is supposed to be really good. That is the next "tool" purchase for me.

Very nice, Rob. TThank you for taking the time to post this. Like everyone else, I look for ways to improve the way I cut my strings. There are no bad ideas, only different. Julia, I think most people here would agree that the key to cutting good, uniform strings or lace is a very sharp blade and patience. The former is not that hard. Patience on the other hand.....

Thanks for the input on this. I understand where you are coming from and appreciate the feedback. If I didn't want your opinions I would not have asked. As far as time and money goes, this customer is a good Christian friend. I do his tack repair, he pays cost of material and takes me hunting with him. These halters will fill in slow times this winter. I also have an 11 year old that wants to start hunting and riding so he will help me "pick stitches" to start learning how the halters are made and what they do. He is also pretty handy with my sewing machine so he may even get to stitch some back together. I will talk to the customer and tell him what I have found out. Thanks again.

Welcome aboard. Always nice to have another braider here. I'm sure you will be a wealth of information to those of us that like to braid and want to make a whip or two. Grab a cup of coffee or tea and enjoy.

I am looking for hardware for mule halters. I have talked to Herb Bork in Pendleton, OR about making some strong rings and halter rings. Also considering stainless steel from Weaver. Anyone have any other ideas? These items need to be storng as it is used to pack into the Bob Marshall Wilderness here in Montana. When you go in about 23 miles you have to be able to trust your equipment. Any and all suggestions are appreciated. Thanks,