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billybopp

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Everything posted by billybopp

  1. billybopp
    One of the things that I see that may be contributing to the problem is that your tooling isn't very deep. That in itself isn't a problem, but you have to remember - Antique is meant to "settle into" the impressions that your tooling makes, and then excess removed. If you use something like sheeps wool to apply it pretty darn heavily that will help work that antique down deep - but is you use the same sort of sheeps wool to remove it, it will also go pretty deep and likely take off too much. I often use good ol' paper towels folded flat to remove the excess. Deeper tooling can help too, by giving more depth to hold onto that antique - Flip side of that is TOO deep and you can't get the right amount back out. Hope that helps Bill
  2. billybopp
    I recently bought a side of W&C burgundy bridle, and it is just beautiful with essentially no flaws. (Briefcase pictures coming as soon as I finish it). The big advantage of W&C for us "little guys and hobbyists" is that they will sell you a single side, or part of one, without a huge premium on pricing. With HO, we have to buy a minimum amount of one type and thickness which is far more than we're likely to use within a few years - unless we go through a reseller who either charges a premium, or provides "B" grade - or both. Bill
  3. billybopp
    I suspect that the casters and straps provided just enough "give" to allow things to move rather than break. Sometimes, structures can be too rigid which can cause breakage. I'd take the head off to be safe, though, since it's not really hard to do in this case. That will greatly reduce the mass atop the table. Bill
  4. billybopp
    Agreed! I know Brian is quite busy right now, but when the opportunity arises I'd love to see more about this and his other machines! Really creative solutions. I'm curious, in particular, how the rollers are made! Oh ... And I'm NOT entirely sure that Castrol is the best stuff to use for edge coating. :D Bill
  5. billybopp
    Airbrushes are indeed very very handy for many uses. If you already have a compressor, you don't need to spend much to get a usable airbrush that is workable for most things we do as leather workers. A Harbor Freight airbrush will do the job for most things for about $20 or so. You might eventually want a better one, but then again maybe not! If you don't already have a compressor, you can get one that's workable for under $100 AND it's really useful for lots of other things. Pumping up that flat tire, blowing out dirt from refrigerator coils or from behind appliances, blowing up that deflated football, and a few dozen other handy uses. Maybe you can sell that to your higher authority. Bill
  6. billybopp
    I run into the same problem with my little splitter, and have found that you need to pull downward a bit from the front, as Bikermutt mentioned, and also need to keep the leather down a bit from the back as it's feeding in. I keep meaning to put a bar across the back of the splitter to do that but never seem to get around to it. For now, I recruit an extra pair of hands. Bill
  7. billybopp
    That wine box is more expensive but far more fun to buy full then empty yourself. And you get the benefit of corks which are great for protecting your awl blades and holding needles, as well as backing your awl when sewing thinner leathers. Most folks already have straight edges lying around and cutting boards. Just don't let the other half catch you taking from the kitchen. Many tools can be repurposed too. I turned some old beat up sold chisels into my best solving knives with a little work on stones. For awhile I used an old paring knife as well. Bill
  8. billybopp
    Ingenious. You've really come up with a lot of great tools to speed along production and yet still keep things handmade. I'm sure that many of these also have multiple uses. I can see both of these tools in a LOT of applications, and may give a go at something similar using more - uh - home accessible materials. The folder reminds me of a sheet metal brake. Bill
  9. billybopp
    I would be surprised if Ohio Travel Bag did not have these. Bill
  10. billybopp
    Maybe this will help: Lisa Sorrell has a few videos on lasts and sizing. Bill
  11. billybopp
    Take a look at Birkenstocks. Their sandals have the straps cut from a single piece on each side. You wouldn't necessarily need to do that for all straps, but is you combine the topmost strap and heel-strap, that would eliminate the stitching / riveting at the join. Bill
  12. billybopp
    Fiebings is in the process of removing the word oil from these dyes because it is very confusing. It is the pigment that is oil based/synthetic. The dye is alcohol based, and should be diluted with alcohol although some have reported success with water. I use 90% isopropyl with good results. Bill
  13. billybopp

    Hello!

    billybopp replied to lomfs24's topic in Member Gallery

    Welcome. Yeah. Many of us looked at a leather item and thought... Damn. That's expensive! I could save money and make it for far less. And many hundreds of dollars later would have done far better financially to have just bought the item to begin with. But it also would have been far far less fun to buy it. Welcome to the addiction. Bill
  14. billybopp
    You'll find a link to Lisa's shop in the banner ads at the top of the page here. Should be able too get to the YouTube vids from there as well, indirectly. Good info in many videos even if you're not making footwear, and great info if you are, although piecemeal. Also, for those that don't follow her regularly, she recently lost her daughter, Paige. Very sad event...and as you'll see in the videos Paige was a fine, bright young lady. She will be missed by all. Bill
  15. billybopp
    Hand sewing or machine? Bill
  16. billybopp
    You'll get really good at watch straps that way. Be careful.
  17. billybopp
    After 4 years, I doubt there will be pictures now.
  18. billybopp
    I would probably avoid turpentine, it's pretty harsh. I've also been told to avoid lanolin, although not sure why. Tallow and cod liver oil are very old items to use, I gather but haven't tried. I've used eucalyptus in small amounts, it's supposed to be a preservative and just plain smells nice. I'd guess tea tree oil is about the same. I've experimented a little with carnauba, and so far I've found that it is pretty hard and doesn't melt in like beeswax does. I want to try a little carnauba mixed in with beeswax/neetsfoot to harden it up a little bit. What I've mostly used to date is beeswax/neetsfoot with a few drops of eucalyptus. Bill
  19. billybopp
    Awesome! Love those double benefit finds ... Like corks from wine bottles that you can use to hold awl blades and needles or as backers for saddle stitching. Wonder what other finds might be lurking out there?
  20. billybopp
    Yellow is a color that can often work better if you use white first. Bill
  21. billybopp
    Lol. Tan kote. Durn spell check.
  22. billybopp
    Paint first with tan more.
  23. billybopp
    Rub the daylights out of it. Most if not all of that will buff off. Bill
  24. billybopp
    50/50 is a good starting point, and makes something roughly like shoe shine can polish. A bit more NFO will make it more like a cream. More wax will make it a bit harder. A little eucalyptus oil adds a really nice aroma and acts as a preservative too. Experiment a bit to see what works for you. Cupcake papers make a nice container for medium to hard blends. Just rub the puck right on the leather, or use a rag. Softer blends will need a rag or something to apply. Bill
  25. billybopp
    Try Weaver leather supply. You may see their banner ad at the top of the page here, they are a LWN sponsor. Bill
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