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billybopp

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Everything posted by billybopp

  1. billybopp
    After 4 years, I doubt there will be pictures now.
  2. billybopp
    I would probably avoid turpentine, it's pretty harsh. I've also been told to avoid lanolin, although not sure why. Tallow and cod liver oil are very old items to use, I gather but haven't tried. I've used eucalyptus in small amounts, it's supposed to be a preservative and just plain smells nice. I'd guess tea tree oil is about the same. I've experimented a little with carnauba, and so far I've found that it is pretty hard and doesn't melt in like beeswax does. I want to try a little carnauba mixed in with beeswax/neetsfoot to harden it up a little bit. What I've mostly used to date is beeswax/neetsfoot with a few drops of eucalyptus. Bill
  3. billybopp
    Awesome! Love those double benefit finds ... Like corks from wine bottles that you can use to hold awl blades and needles or as backers for saddle stitching. Wonder what other finds might be lurking out there?
  4. billybopp
    Yellow is a color that can often work better if you use white first. Bill
  5. billybopp
    Lol. Tan kote. Durn spell check.
  6. billybopp
    Paint first with tan more.
  7. billybopp
    Rub the daylights out of it. Most if not all of that will buff off. Bill
  8. billybopp
    50/50 is a good starting point, and makes something roughly like shoe shine can polish. A bit more NFO will make it more like a cream. More wax will make it a bit harder. A little eucalyptus oil adds a really nice aroma and acts as a preservative too. Experiment a bit to see what works for you. Cupcake papers make a nice container for medium to hard blends. Just rub the puck right on the leather, or use a rag. Softer blends will need a rag or something to apply. Bill
  9. billybopp
    Try Weaver leather supply. You may see their banner ad at the top of the page here, they are a LWN sponsor. Bill
  10. billybopp
    That background is called a "bar grounder". They take a little practice to get right but the results, as you can see here, are well worth the effort. Great work! I always look forward to seeing what you come up with, Gray! Bill
  11. billybopp
    I put down a cut open trashbag all round my work area before dying, and that is a tremendous help. It is worth noting, however, that after a spill the plastic must be gathered very carefully from all sides before picking it up for disposal. It is also worth noting that rubbing alcohol will do a fairly good job at removing dye from a finished wooden floor, and that a product called Dye Gone II is very effective at turning hands from a lovely saddle tan back to their original color. Also noteworthy, aforesaid DYE Gone II will only partially remove dye from blue jeans. Bill
  12. billybopp
    If its really dull, work the outside on a stone or what have you, working turning as you go, then strop. Then use a bit of polish or some sort of grit on a toothpick to remove any burr on the inside and polish. Bill
  13. billybopp
    I'll take one or two of everything on that page at those prices. Bill
  14. billybopp
    Most colored leathers are chrome tanned or combination, but veg tanned can be colored too. I recently bought some really beautiful veg tanned bridle in burgundy from Wicket and Craig.
  15. billybopp
    Leather is a bit acidic, and probably not a good choice for archival storage unless lined. Grey dye is pretty useless stuff...more paint than dye. No finish is needed if you use something like bridle leather. Check http://wickett-craig.com .. They make some really great leather. Bill
  16. billybopp
    Some rum bottles are corked. Just saying...
  17. billybopp
    Being a singer, I'm betting it was black with lots of gold bling, fancy feet, did a lot o' bobbin', and did sole.
  18. billybopp
    At that price, it was a LONG time ago! Bill
  19. billybopp
    I can see something like that with hand cranks for less money selling well. Bill
  20. billybopp
    Also true lumpendoodle! Oh .. And I forgot another hateful word in these ads ... Patina, meaning rusted nearly through. Bill
  21. billybopp
    There is an awful lot of crap that shows up on eBay as leather tools that isn't. Antique dealers buy crap, and when they can't identify it, it gets labelled and put for up for sale as the most expensive option they can think of, usually with the words antique, vintage, rare, collectible, and my most hated "L@@K" in the description. Leather workers are willing to pay top dollar for good old tools, so we get targeted by these scheisters.
  22. billybopp
    I agree about oiling. You'll also want to use leather that has a really good flesh side .. No fuzzies. You might also try a finish like Findings tan more or bag coat, Aussie, carnauba cream, or a beeswax/neetsfoot compound. They are all light to no color change and leave slightly different finishes. You could also do up some small samples of each and ask her which she likes best. Bill
  23. billybopp
    Awesome video. Thanks Wiz Mitty!
  24. billybopp
    Maybe this is the right thread!http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rainbow-Colour-Sewing-Leather-Waxed-Polyester-Thread-260m-Spool-1mm-Flat-Craft-/131889235023?hash=item1eb536044f:g:MdQAAOSwuTxV~SQW Bill
  25. billybopp
    Looks good! Agreed with aznightwolf on the misuse of a fine looking bottle for water. Use of a seeder and meander border on the axe sheath is great. I never thought to use them that way. Bill
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