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25b

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Everything posted by 25b

  1. Do NOT buy that piece of junk...mine broke after using it three or four times. The part that punctures the leather broke out through the back of the tool...and I'm no arnold schwarzenegger....it broke with just normal pressure. I understand tandy will replace their tools, but I don't have one nearby and it wouldn't be worth it to pay to ship it back... Anyway, now that I know which tool you're talking about, it is poorly made and mine is broken after only a handful of uses. The couple of times I used it before it broke, it did make decent, tiny holes.
  2. Well that is interesting...the case I have to work from is marked "1939", but it's brown... Not sure if they'd tell me where they get their leather though if they make and sell reproduction items also though...
  3. Do you have any pics of the 12" x 12" one?
  4. If you're talking about the "Speedy stitcher" thing, save your money...the resulting stitches look like garbage, especially compared to a proper saddle stitch...
  5. Glad it was helpful. I saw it on television last week and thought of it when I saw your post...
  6. What are "royal reins"? Are those like Romal reins? I was watching a video showing how Tim George cuts his rawhide and he cuts out wide strips from the outer edges, then he leaves the center of the hide and gives/sells those to other folks to use (I think he mentioned saddlers and some other folks) as that is the best part of the hide... Once you have the hide cut into about 1" strips, then you can use the cutter of your choice to cut it down to whatever width you need for your reins, knots, etc. I have a nice tool that is a cutter, beveler, and splitter all in one. If you're on facebook, this group is pretty much the best rawhide and leather braider's group on there...LOTS of extremely talented and professional braiders in there... https://www.facebook.com/groups/rawhidebraiding/ There are "other" groups, but this one isn't sponsored by some big journal, so you'll get objective opinions on whatever your questions are...especially about tools, rawhide and leather sources, etc.
  7. Well, I would appreciate that very much...thank you. I am sure I could make it from a double shoulder. Might could get away with one shoulder, but I think I'd be pushing it. Thanks again..
  8. Ok well that's a lot of help. Thanks a lot. Does anyone else have any actual HELPFUL information on where to buy similar leather please??
  9. http://www.leather-braiding.com/videos.htm
  10. It does look similar to that...any suggestions where I might be able to buy football leather? I know Horween makes some...don't know where I could buy it in less than multiple sides though...
  11. Yeah, I don't buy from springfield. Any other sources are welcomed. I saw a few that looked close at Maverick Leather. I guess my main question is if anyone knows whether it is 1) veg tanned leather and 2) whether it is cow or horse. Thanks Here's what it looks like. I don't have the case with me where I am right now, but this is the same case. http://www.stewartsmilitaryantiques.com/img/ProdPhoto96915.jpg
  12. I've been asked to make a replica of a German WWII map / document case. I have an original one I can use to go by for a pattern (no, I will not be taking it apart)...the original leather has a pebble texture to it. Can anyone recommend the best leather to use for this? It is difficult to tell if the original is veg tanned or chrome tanned. It is quite flexible and much of the finish has rubbed off the outside of the case. I'd say the original is around 6-6.5oz thickness. Any ideas on where to source similar leather? Does anyone know if these were made of cow or horse leather? Thanks for any insight on this case.
  13. Yep......told ya. Very glad it worked out for you...I enjoy dealing with them over goodsjapan any day.
  14. Uhh...I own quite a few of the books (except I bought mine from leathercrafttools.com because they don't gouge on shipping) and they are ALL (in case that wasn't clear in my previous post) to actual scale and yes, they are large patterns folded up to fit in the book.
  15. The books I have the patterns are actual size.
  16. There's really nothing "rude" about it...if you want, you could offer to fix other players gear with it for a fee...that would help cover the cost. Or you could start making and selling leather goods in your spare time. Look at it this way...it's an investment you can hand down to your kids someday. If you take care of it, it will last a VERY long time.
  17. This is a good group on facebook...lots of exceptional braiding on there and lots of folks to answer questions too... https://www.facebook.com/groups/rawhidebraiding/
  18. Everyone talking about buying from goodsjapan, you'd be better served by buying from leathercrafttools.com. They have the exact same brand pricking irons and other tools as goodsjapan except their prices are a whole heck of a lot cheaper and they don't gouge on their shipping prices. I have no affiliation with them except as a customer. I don't even go to goodsjapan's website anymore except to see just how much higher their prices are...
  19. David Morgan's book, "Briading Fine Leather", covers how to do the loop and braid it back into itself...then cover the splice at that location with a turkshead knot of your choice and it'll look pretty close to that... If you don't have it and you're interested in braiding like this, you should go ahead and buy it. It would be a good book to start out...
  20. Yes it's in Spanish, but the video is clear enough I was able to follow him with no problem...
  21. Yeah, but I gave him the best, fastest, and most practical options on material and procedures, so...
  22. Yeah, if you look three posts above yours, I recommended the exact same thing and exact same website a few weeks ago...
  23. http://www.sailrite.com/Plastipane-12-Gauge-Vinyl-Window-Material-54
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