mikesc

It depends entirely on what you are thinking of making..so..what you want to make ?

Just to add..Water Buffalo does not have anything remotely resembling a "pebbly grain"..Unless it has been rolled and textured at the tannery..If you want to see Water Buffalo..visit your nearest Biker Apparel dealer..ask to see the non smooth items, the smooth ones will be Cow hide ( Vests , Jackets, Trousers ) ..The ones with what look like a lot of tiny creases and fat marks and bites, nicks etc ..You'll be looking at Water Buffalo..especially if it is black..Tanneries tend to dye Cow hide in various colours, and Water Buffalo in Black..It is cheaper than Cow hide..when made into Garments or accessories the difference is about 10% at "true wholesaler/ manufacturer"* pricing..because it has more blemishes..Buffalo lead harder lives than Cows ..It is more hard wearing ( abrasion resistant ) than Cow Hide..and is a better choice for Biker Wear and accessories. Personally I prefer Water Buffalo to Cow Hide.. YMMV.. *Mike (North Star Leather Company ) will know what I mean by true wholesaler/manufacturer..because he is one ..as is Rocky Aussie and some others here. But many who present themselves as such , especially in India, Pakistan, Bangladesh, are just agents for the actual manufacturers, tanneries, or wholesalers, or OEMs...Idem China.

Buffalo in North America means Bison..Buffalo in India means Water Buffalo ..not at all the same animal, nor is it the same leather..But, a lot of apparel sold in North America and Europe as Buffalo..( which the buyers think is Bison ) is actually using Water Buffalo and is made in India, Pakistan or Bangladesh. Importing hides from India involves customs charges, health controls , brokerage charges, shipping charges etc..It is only viable for large quantities..Most of the Production in India, Pakistan and Bangladesh is chrome tan..not veg tan..There is some veg tan..but you'll usually be able to buy cheaper and better in North America or Europe...and with far less hassle.

First two of your reasons is why I adjusted my thoughts to D Ring on the glove..which could easily be be covered so that in a "crawl" there would be no problem with "catch points"..and certainly less of a "catch point" problem than with a strap on the coat..and that would remove any problem re heat on the Glove... But..I hear you regarding point 3, ( insert "wry" smiley ) "tradition"..gets in the way of many improvements..and can cost lives..until someone ( with enough "juice" ) says .."but wait..that is not the safest way etc".. Back when I was in the UK I was ( amongst other things ) a volunteer fireman ( because I was already para-medic trained* ) ..here in France I have seen ( around 10 years ago..on three occasions ) firemen** take the helmets off motorcycle accident victims, to put them in a "neck brace"..they may still do so..which, as someone who has ridden many motorcycles, scares me.. *UK military for a time.. in some units..everyone has to be.. **Here it is the fire service that is called and which takes one to hospital , if required, after a RTA..or any "Blue light" incident..their para-medical training is , IMO, and IME, very very rudimentary..

To quote one of my favourite websites over past 20 years..or so.. Far more laughs there than elsewhere..even when including xkcd. https://www.theregister.co.uk ..pictures* ..or it didn't happen* *maybe...depending upon ... ps ..love the "nick" ;-)))

Have to wonder, why they don't just have a Spring Snap Carabiner Hook ( like on dog leads ) on each Glove ( on the outside ) so that they can clip them to their coats..or to their sleeves..A D ring on each side of the coat, or on each sleeve..clip the glove on and.. "job's done"..Or a D Ring on each glove..and spring clips ( like Carabiners ..or Spring Snap Carabiner Hooks ) on the coats / clothing ..and again "job's done"..seems to me to be far more simple..and way less chance of getting "hung up" on something..in a burning building or anywhere.. Your straps are well made :) ..nevertheless ..But the concept of "glove straps" seems like an overly complex ( and not efficient ..they can still fall out of the strap far easier than they could "un clip " ) solution to a very simple requirement* ..*how not to mislay ones gloves.

I'm sorry Dave..I can't let you sew that.

That is very very nice :)

Btw Ryan..I forgot to mention, the photography on all of your work ( photos of your work previously posted here, and this time, of this saddle ) is also excellent. :) your post are like those of abhandmade..they always bring a smile to my face :)

Raises glass, and with tear in eye..to you Ferg and to your wife .. :-)))

Superb work as always..deserving of 1st ( not 2nd ) place. :)

If you are on a phone ? send / email them to yourself..that usually shrinks them the post them..or resize them to 800 x 600 pixels each..then post them..or try using irfan view.. Here is a post from Tom ( Northmount ) that you may find helpful..

Pretty sure pictures of stuff for sale..have to be here at leatherworker.net...not on somewhere else.. Especially not flickr..which since it got bought by oath..makes you sign away your soul and your first born*, and agree to let it drop you a cookie set that will follow you all over the internet for decades.. before it will let you look at squat.. *only a slight exaggeration..Horrible terms of service on all oath properties..and illegal terms of service too

Tapatalk is a spyware that no forum or webmaster should ever use..been discussed here before. Simplest "mobile app" is just an icon on the mobile device screen that links to the home page of the forum or site..we ( programmers ) used to call them a shortcut link.. No spyware..no ads...no depending on a 3rd party ( paid or free ) ..no security risks..

Post the picture here..so that people do not have to log into Google to see it..

Try staining it with Coffee or Tea..don't take the thing apart, just put coffee or tea onto some cotton cloth and wipe it onto the cords..bear in mind they would initially be paler where they "strain" around the willow..but eventually would stain darker there due to interaction with the chemicals in the wood..You should be able to "antique" it pretty well if you go carefully..You could also use dilute dye..or thinned oil paint..thinner / more dilute is better, easier to add more than to remove colour..A little dilute dye dissolved in sealer will be pretty permanent..If you want to add "age dust", your vacuum cleaner bag is your friend..add some to the cords just after you coat them with sealer, and before it dries.

Rob..you may already have this one..and it isn't for the 29K70, but for the 29K71,72 and 73..But I found it whilst looking through my "archives" for a some 29K manuals that I posted in another thread earlier today.Singer 29K71, 29K72, 29K73.pdf I'm like yourself and Jimi ( who has a wonderful collection of original manuals ) , I like them in original paper..or scans of the originals.. A few of mine are in French, and Constabulary has many in German..as I think does Uwe and some others here. When ( in a previous life ) I owned a printing works ( letterpress and litho ) I had a load of books as large printed sheet layouts, which had small numbers and letters in the corners of some pages , so that the printer would know at the bookbinding stage which way the sheets should be folded so that when the guillotine was run on the folded stack edges the pages would be in the correct order and facing the correct way in the resulting book..Your instructions ( very similar to printers formula for book printing "the old way" ) took me back nearly 50 years there :)

Sailmaker friend of mine runs one of the newer very techy Adlers..long arm model with more automation than most cars..costs more than most new cars do too :)

It has been a while since Bernina's domestic machines were actually built in Switzerland..The pre "digital ones" were the last..and even then some of that pre digital production was being run in Thailand.. http://edgestitch.com/2018/02/where-is-this-sewing-machine-made/ They do ( did..been a long while since they stopped making it ) make a very nice industrial model ( smaller than the usual size industrial..similar in size to the Singer 20U series )with meta cams that sail makers and lingerie makers swear by for the triple step zig- zag..Nechi also do one , but the Bernina is nicer.. I agree with Bill..just look at the starting prices of the Juki's that have some digital programmed stitches available..and the cost of industrial embroidery machines..

HTH :) 29K_Operators_Guide.pdf 29-4 parts list.pdf 29-4.pdf

Diamond stone will do it..your Ruby blade is Aluminium Oxide..which is a wee bit less hard than diamond..I use diamond tools and files ( polishers etc ) to sculpt pieces of "Ruby".. Gemstone Rubies and Sapphires, Emeralds are just larger unflawed crystals..Jewellers use diamond stones and tools and diamond dust to facet and polish them.

Indeed it does..excellent. :)

Yes ..sure ..pm sent :)

It works :)

Thanks Rob :) ..Original Singer 29K70 manual in English attached.. Singer 29K70 Orig Manual.pdf