YinTx

I think most of us dilute the Fiebing's dye with alchohol, some with isopropyl, others with Denatured Alcohol. There are oil dyes out there, I think Weaver's sells some. You do have to oil well after using the alcohol diluted dye, as it seems to dry out the leather. I have one dye procedure that indicates you should completely wet the leather with water, let it dry a bit, then completely wet the leather with diluted dye in an attempt to even out the colors. The theory was sound, the colors were even, but the colors came out really light for my taste. Streaky and mottled is something most of us seem to be trying to avoid, but always end up with unless you spray or dip or use oil dyes. The beeswax/neatsfoot oil concoctions are typically made yourself. I have not yet, but plan to as soon as I use up the materials I already have. Various recipes abound on this site as well as the web in general, some using just the two ingredients, others using lanolin, essential oils, and waxes such as carnauba in addition, and in various proportions. You kind of have to experiment to see what works for you. Usually melted in a double boiler or a crock pot, as Bill mentioned. YinTx

Nice work on the bag, and thanks for the build along video. I have always wondered in the back of my mind if Fiebeng's called their dye "Oil Dye" expecting it to be mixed with oil before being applied to the leather. I have heard that true oil based dyes give a more even color since they don't soak so readily into the leather. I tried on some scrap leather, and it dyed nicely, but I found the leather to be too soaked with oil, and no matter how much or how long I buffed, I was still getting dye off of the leather and onto the rag. So I was amazed to see you put so many coats of dye/oil mix on, then follow that up with even more oil on the bag. Do you find the leather to still be oily? I know you asked in your video about whether or not we consider shoe polish to be a good leather finish. I have used it on some items such as belts, and I think it works, it was intended to be used on boots etc and resist water, mud etc. That being said, I feel it didn't penetrate very far into the leather. For that reason, I like the beeswax/neatsfoot oil blends, and even the petroleum jelly based Aussie, since they do soak into the leather a bit. Especially if you apply a bit of heat. The beeswax gives the leather that nice matte shine finish and water resistance, and the oils really bring out the colors. I have found doing this means I use less neatsfoot oil in the first round after dye. And I really like the odor better, less like the chemical scent of shoe polish. And if I need more weather protection, Resolene or Angelus acrylic finishes have worked well for me. Just my take. Also, I really appreciate your commentary on things that worked well, and things you would do differently. This is the type of thing that allows me to learn without having to go through the same experience! YinTx

I like this. Most times you see comparisons or reviews, but no one seems to put the marks all side by side like that. Would be neat to see them side by side, stitched and unstitched also! YinTx

Worked great, was able to watch it. Thanks! YinTx

I think you win the round. Page "6" on this flyer, looks to be an exact match, right down to the handle and the black paint marks on the brass rod going across the front of the blade, and no makers mark. http://www.tandyleather.ca/media/downloads/1105WC-CA.pdf And yep, the "lock" is on the wrong side of the handle! "Twist" handle doesn't quite reach the bottom, so it doesn't lock blade in position. Going to have to see what I can do to fix that. Good thing is, it seems to skive just fine! YinTx

Hah! It's been flagged as inappropriate for young viewers. What the heck. Since I don't have a youtube account, I don't get to see it. It does look a lot like the Osborne 84 and Heritage Splitters. Pretty sure it isn't the Osborne, since it has no lettering cast into the base. But after looking at the other video, I am certain the lock is on the wrong side of the handle! Does your Heritage splitter have any identifying marks, bikermutt? YinTx

The handle feels fine, the weight of the bag is on the bottom of the handle, not the side so no issues. This bag is big. A lot bigger than standard music cases. They normally don't swing the inside corner into your leg, which has a lot to do with where the handle and straps are attached to the bag. This one, sadly, does not hang perfectly straight, since I did not adjust the proportions correctly. Thank you! glad you enjoyed it. Thanks! one of my favorite combinations so far. YinTx

Waaaaiiitt a minute.... is the lock on the wrong side of the handle???? YinTx

Spent the afternoon cleaning up the skiver/splitter I just got. Sharpened the blade and gave it a go. First three things I've ever split on a lap skiver/splitter, I think it did ok! But I don't really know what brand it is... anyone care to hazard a guess? Because then I'l be able to get a user's manual and figure out how to use it without having to constantly unscrew the lever lock! As found: Cleaned up: YinTx

Soo... wait, the photos of the straps is when they were still wet? You might want to give it one more go, dip once fairly quickly, in diluted dye. Let it dry *completely* over a day or so, then use your neetsfoot oil and other finishing process. See if you are more satisfied with the result. If not, yep back to the dauber would be one way to do the trick. YinTx

Looks like he hasn't been online since Sunday. I have purchased items from him before, he is in Canada unless he's moved. I have a clock lock from him, it was new in wrapping, and nice. He was good to deal with, so if you are interested, I am sure patience will help. I'd buy more from him, but don't need any at this moment... YinTx

Okay, What the H@($% did they make those old blades out of????? I noted a few small light gouges on the bottom of mine, and thought "I'll just touch it up some." After 2 hours on the DIAMOND hone, I managed to pull up the tiniest of burrs. My arms are killin me! However, after another 30 minutes working through the stones, and another 10 minutes on the strop, this thing will scare the wind, split it from East to West no problem. I put a scrap piece through, didn't hear a sound, thought I had it set wrong, but no, a beautiful split! And I never did work the marks out of the backside. YinTx

I know this is an older thread, but were you able to resolve the rotated leather issue? Mine was doing that as well, I spent a couple hours honing it again, it seems better...but I have a few other issues to sort out before it is dialed in and I know if it is 100%, so wondering what you did on yours. Thanks in advance, YinTx

So the rescue was a full success. How did you do it? Was the leather already resisted/antiqued/sealed before you started the rescue process? Your experience might allow me to retrieve some items from the error... practice uhh.. not yet completed projects bin.... YinTx

Also I have found that bellies don't burnish so well. But if you are edge painting...might be ok. YinTx

Someone was saying that the CMDachong edgers are really good. Might be a decent price, I don't know. Will have to do some more looking around (read: procrastinate before I spend more $$ on leather working tools...) YinTx

Thanks, Webicons. I think a sharpening service is a worthwhile expense if you don't have the equipment and experience to do them correctly. If mine doesn't do well after I touch it up, I'll take advantage of it. Possibly a minor touch up as a DIY would be ok, I only found one video on it. Lots for doing the woodworking planes, which is good. here is the one splitter sharpening video I saw that seemed worthwhile. Although I cringe at flattening the cutting edge like they do, but I understand why they do it (to make sure there is a true straight edge). Just feels painful for the blade and the stone! YinTx

What do you plan to make with it? Today I am tooling a card holder with 3 oz leather, did a wallet with 2-3 oz leather, but thats really kinda pushing it for me. With practice, and years of experience, there are those who tool thinner leathers with great success. Of course, if you are doing a saddle or a belt or some such thing... much thicker. YinTx Oh, and veg tanned is generally the proper leather if that was part of your question..

Thank you for that info. Are the blades from Pilgrim OEM, or otherwise? My Landis is a Model D. Thanks, YinTx

I'll second that. Nice sized pieces, generous box, nice looking leather. YinTx

Thanks for the details on what to look for. Next time I pull my blade, I'll take a look. I noted the one time I had it out, that the bottom of it had some lines scored in it. I may try to lap those out, and I may follow your advice and get a new blade for a spare backup. Will any blade that fits a Landis do, or should I be looking for new old stock, new stock, etc? YinTx

What is the function you want to achieve? Looks? Protection? Restoration? Old book? New book? YinTx

This. Do this. You will already have an artistic bent that allows you to understand and be inspired by what you are trying to accomplish, and your work will be yours. It may not start out looking like you intend, but you will quickly progress after a few practice pieces to a place where you are improving on your own work. It will be unique, and I think folks gravitate towards that. Just my thoughts. YinTx

Did you tool the carry strap? If so, it looks deserving of a close up... YinTx

Wow, thanks! And I feel the same way about my craft as you do about yours. YinTx