Sonydaze

You don't say what type of leather you are using, but if it is chrome tan, you will want the heat to get a good impression. You also need the heat for foil.

I thought someone might be interested: http://vancouver.craigslist.ca/van/for/5622171934.html

Regardless of what kind of motor, I get better control by using both feet on the peddle. Using both feet is something I read in an old Juki manual. I was accustomed to using only one foot but after I got used to using both feet. I found that I had much better control. ymmv.

Atlas Levy in Los Angeles will have bobbins for you machine. You might also try the Thread Exchange for threads.

Glad to hear that solved your problem. Three things dealers should tell customers that are new to industrial machines: - Hold the thread when you start - Finish the stitch. - Don't turn the hand wheel backwards. And prolly a bunch more..

I'm thinking that you just have to finish the last stitch. The lever that goes up and down (with the thread through it) needs to be at the top of it's stroke. Just turn the hand wheel until it tops out.

The heat 'softens' leather, especially chrome tan. Chrome tan usually doesn't emboss well without the heat. I find that 225 - 250 F is a good temperature. Higher than that can burn the top finish on the leather resulting in a rough imprint. It takes a bit of practice to balance temperature and how long you press to get an nice clean imprint. You can also use foils to add colour (and foils are available in many colours and textures). Machines can be bought used, I think I paid about $400 for mine. Ebay or Craigslist can be good places to look. If you get some type sets and type holders, you can also personalize items. This is the old machine I use to emboss my logo onto most items I make. Right now it is set up to emboss strap ends.

A hot embossing/stamping machine is what I use. Used ones often can be found, These machines also allow you to use embossing foil to add colour if you like. With the heat, most chrome tan leathers emboss well. The heat will darken light coloured vegitan leather, the logo will be be darker... I usually like the effect. In Canada, I get my dies made by: https://www.sterling.ca/graphics.cfm Look at the magnesium plates, 1/4" deep work well. A plate should last several thousand impressions

Weaver Leather has decent prices for their belt blanks. They are available with different levels of finishing.

Most of the used clutch motors laying around are from machines getting switched over to servo motors. I have a pile of clutch motors but am too far away. Any of the sewing machine dealers that support this forum can set you up with a new servo motor (see the ads at the top of the page). Cost is about $180 and not difficult to change over. After your wife sews with the servo motor for awhile, she will be happy that the clutch motor quit.

It might be that the capacitor on the motor is shot. If the machine is still on warranty, I would talk to the dealer... if not the good news is there are a ton of used clutch motors laying around, a forum member near you may have one for real cheap or free. I would upgrade the sewing machine to a servo motor (with needle positioning). They are far superior to clutch motors. Servo motors are quiet and give you much better control of your machine.

What kind of motor on it? It is very likely a motor problem.

You may want to try buying inexpensive stock whips or dressage whips and stripping them for the core?

I just Googled 'serifil' and got this: http://www.jpmsupplyco.com/search?q=serafil

All of my individual invoices from Weaver exceed the $1200 annual minimum, so this change makes no difference for me. However, I did receive the letter. Perhaps they are trying to balance pricing with costs of servicing accounts? I know that with my business, the time/material costs of invoicing, packaging and shipping a $50 order is close to the same as for a $500 order. I understand how this is not good news if you don't meet their annual minimum, but I did notice that the $200 fee is a one time charge....not annual. While the $200 fee may sound like Tandy, I don't see it that way. Tandy has positioned itself to be attractive to new(er) diy customers.... it has gotten very unattractive for my business and my purchasing from Tandy has almost dried up. I only purchase occasional items out of convenience. In my opinion, Weaver seems to be trying to protect their pricing to stay attractive to larger customers. Good or bad would depend on your own perspective? The good news in the letter is that as of this past April 1st, they have reduced some prices and shipping costs.

Mike516: You may want to try contacting them via their website? AW Harness

I have a 245/1245 owners manual on PDF, email me if you can use it. gord(at)bound2please.com

I work mostly with chrome tan leathers and emboss all of my products. To get a good impression, you need a hot stamp machine. Both heat and pressure are required.

I buy gallon jugs of sewing machine oil from an industrial sewing machine supplier. My guess is that it is probably 10 weight mineral oil. Someone else here likely knows for sure if I am correct.

Most of my sewing machines have been found via Craigslist ads. Some worked great and some didn't work when I bought them. I live a long ways from an industrial sewing machine mechanic, so I have have become reasonably adept at fixing and tuning them. (I am also lucky to be mechanically inclined.) Probably the most indispensable machine in my shop is a Juki LK-1900HS shape tacker. It wouldn't sew (and I couldn't see what was wrong) when I bought it but the price negotiated was excellent and I took a chance. It took a bit but I got it figured out....they sew poorly unless they are well lubricated and it needed a new hook. If I hadn't taken a chance on the shape tacker, I would still be bar tacking the hard way. I think the where and how you buy a machine should be determined somewhat by your ability to fix problems with it and how available/expensive service is if you can't. If the machine is going to be important to maintaining your production and you are not adept at servicing it, you may want to purchase from a dealer that will provide service and troubleshooting advise. Machines that have been unused for awhile are often very dry and need oiling. This affects how they feel when hand turned as well as how they sound. I like to bring oil and see how the feel/sound changes about 10 minutes after being oiled. I also pay attention to see if the wear on the foot treadle matches the story about how much the machine has been used....

You might want to go though the different items that you want to sew and evaluate what machine would be best for each of them...hopefully a pattern will evolve that shows you what what type and how heavy to buy. Over time I have ended up with 5 different machines that I use frequently and 5 more different types that I use occasionally.

I'm not optimistic that you will find one machine to encompass all of your sewing needs well. You probably need to think about two machines or prioritize what is most important for you to sew and get a machine that does that part well. Servo motors are great, if the machine(s) you get don't have them already, it is easy to change them over from a clutch motor.

Get a circular hole saw the size you need and grind the teeth off to a sharp edge. I use them with my clicker press if I don't want a centre hole and on the hole saw mandrel in my drill press if I don't care if there is a hole in the centre. I'm pretty sure you could also tap it through with a mallet.

Life is too short to keep dealing with a**hats. I would have the holster returned then refund him including return shipping. Then I would not communicate further. It leaves him in the weakest position to complain and without a 'stolen' holster. Hang the holster on your wall to remind you to appreciate the many great people you deal with.

Weaver Leather has a fair amount of stainless hardware.