Sonydaze

I use some import brand tapes but both Tuck tape and 3M of course are good. Just make sure that it doesn't have a foam centre as it will be too thick. Tandy prices/quality are always suspect.... you don't want a re-positional tape.. lower stick. I'm curious to see what a new folder costs, please let me know. Also there is a chance that either company may have a used one.

I bought my Omac Star 2000 for $200 in good used condition, I think there is some confusion on one costing $8000 from Italy. I would price them from both Campbell-Randall as well as Simards. Either company should be able to give you info on their capabilities. If the 220 volt power requirement is a problem, you can get a 110/220 step up step down transformer for $60 - $80 on Ebay. Instead of glue, try using a suitable width of double sided tape (non-foam). Much faster, no mess and no fumes. I tape before running though the folder.. pull the tape backing off just before folding. Then after folding, I run the strap through a double needle, walking foot sewing machine. I can probably cut, tape, fold and sew about 100' of strap per hour. In the past, I have tried several biasing attachments for sewing machines, but could never get one to work well with leather. Has anyone else had any success with these?

Use domes (caps) on both sides. With line 20 and 24 snaps, the stud part will work with either the usual post or a dome.

I have this machine: Omac folder Mine is much older and is a Star 2000 model. It is set up to fold the edges to the middle of the strap. We make straps from upholstery weight leathers. Apparently these folders can be set up to work with different weight materials and do different folds. In Canada they are sold by : Simards This machine folds 8' of strap in about 15 seconds.

I'm not sure about your application, but you could use another dome (rather than a post) with the stud part of the snap? Then it would be pretty on both sides.

@Anubis78: Sorry, I was being sarcastic, I was alluding to tanneries should ignore their scale of economics and sell directly to everyone. Most tanneries have a significant minimum order that is beyond what I buy. Each of my orders with Weaver add up to well above the $1200 annual purchase requirement. However I buy many different items (leathers/hardware) on each order... I can't justify buying any one specific leather by the pallet. So Weaver is my most effective choice at one stop shopping. If I was buying from many places instead, it would drive up my shipping and accounting costs as well as requiring more time.

While I understand the desire to always get the best price, I think some people could be a bit more fair on criticizing Weaver for their new policy. Weaver's labour and material costs are not much different whether processing a $100 order or a $1000 order. The only difference I see is a couple of more minutes taking the larger order and a few more minutes picking the larger order. However, likely some of the smaller orders can eat up more time due to the buyers not being as well versed on what they are buying and being a lot more critical of what they receive. Spending about ten times the labour and material costs to realize the same $1000 in sales as a larger order does not make good business sense (unless your pricing is inflated to make up for the extra cost). From my viewpoint, Weaver being efficient on their operating costs helps maintain lower costs to their customers. Weaver is a family owned and operated business, I'm sure a lot of thought and discussion went into making the decision to implement this policy. Suggesting them to be like Walmart is not reasonable. Maybe the ones we should really be mad at is the tanneries for refusing to sell anybody that makes leather items for resale? No minimum quantity AND at their very best price... Love it or hate it, that's my .02 for Monday.

$129 is a low price for a splitter. I haven't used this model but I had their better one and didn't like it. It is doubtful that it will be sharp out of the box, plan on doing a serious sharpening before you can use it. The width of it is ok for belts and straps but will limit you on doing some other things.

In western Canada, my favourite contact cement is Dura Pro. It is sold in some of the hardware stores around here. It's work window is pretty flexible... when you are in a hurry or forget about it. I think it bonds as well or better than anything else I have tried. (Barges, Weldwood, Lepages etc.) I put an even coat on both pieces and when it isn't too tacky, stick them together and give them a pound with a mallet. I use a scrap of sole bend (smooth side to the leather) to hit on when I'm pounding something to prevent marks from the mallet.

If you have advanced the bell knife towards the presser foot, it changes where the stone engages the bell knife. Bigger advancement, bigger change. If you have been sharpening without advancing the knife, the angle of the grind becomes steeper and creates a lot more friction on the leather coming off the edge. My thoughts (from the other side of the world) is to set the bell the correct distance from the presser foot then regrind the edge until the Sharpy mark goes away right to the edge. When I was newer to this kind of skiver, I made the mistake of not consistently advancing... trying to make the bell last longer. The regrind took about 1/2 an hour, I suggest dressing the grinding wheel before you start.

I would be looking to return the press and dies. It should work better than that. You were quite patient on giving them a chance to make it function properly and they have not succeeded.

I just noticed that you are in Nelson, BC. I don't know who you buy from, but Marc at Mason Sewing has proven very helpful with problems that I have occured over time. He may have a circuit board if you need one?

This can be caused by a faulty circuit board or a defective needle positioner (though I doubt you have a postioner on a skiver). Changing circuit boards is often plug and play. I'm considering changing my skiver over to a servo....how are you finding it for power? Does it stall very readily?

'A sewing machine is only as good as the needle'. I read that somewhere and it has proven to be completely correct. Maybe Mr. Schmetz said it about a 100 years ago?

I use the Thread Zap II as well. They are a bit hard on batteries but work well on getting close without damaging other thread or the leather. They heat fast and cool off quickly. For the speed and conciseness, I will happily buy batteries. The tip is a bit fragile, so I recommend getting a spare. Several vendors on Ebay sell them: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Thread-Zap-II-Burner-Zapper-Tool-Cordless-Beadsmith-Beading-Embroidery-Crafts-/302140393506?hash=item4658f88822:g:NEwAAOxyaTxRS3N8

I had one, got rid of it. Not a great unit and it will require a serious sharpening right out of the box.

Over time, I ended up with an assortment of presses (bought used) and the dies that came with them....a mishmash. Now a days, I mostly use a motorized press. To deal with the many different dies, I have made adaptors for the different types, all to fit the same press. I am fortunate to have both a metal lathe and a milling machine to make them and can often machine an adapter in about the same time as finding and ordering a new die (without having to wait for it to get here). Although many of my dies have the top die with 24 threads/inch, I had to order a tap from a company in New Jersey to get around this... not commonly used in anything else. My opinion: If your business has grown to the point where it has become impractical to do things with hand tools, then spend a bit more buying from someone like Weaver Leather or Ohio Travel Bag that have proven products and good customer service. Use the time saved and lack of frustration to grow your business more.

I use this tool: Chicago screw tool and a cordless drill. I glued an extra layer of rubber on mine that I change out when it becomes worn. Use a slightly larger drill bit than the shaft of what you are drilling out. Drilling slowly with light pressure is better than hard and fast. If you are drilling a capped rivet, centre punch it so you get the hole where you want it. BTW the tool also works great with Chicago screws.

If you are doing volumes of the same thing, a clicker press and dies for each piece will make it way faster as well as more accurate. As stated above, there are many companies that make the dies. Google will show you lots of pictures of clicker presses. Presses can often be found used. One note is that the majority of clicker presses require 220 volt 3 phase power. If you don't have 3 phase power available, a phase converter or inverter will be required.

Is this still for sale?

I go with needle positioners. They make corners faster and easier. I set mine so they stop down and go up when you rock back on the foot pedal. I recently got a newer 750 watt servo, it has proven to have much better torque and slow speed control. After several years with servo motors, I don't know how I used to sew with a clutch motor... although I do remember a sore hand from stopping and turning the wheel.

My Artisan 3200 is makes a subtle click until the bobbin is just about empty, then it clicks louder. Something I have found is that I need to regularly clean out the thread tensioner on the bobbin case otherwise the stitch can get inconsistent.

Weaver Leather has sold Adler for years.

I would check both the timing of the hook and the clearance from the hook to the needle. The needle jamming it may have moved the hook.

Have you tried the Gold Star dies in the Heritage foot press? Dies are commonly 1/2" or 3/8" or a 3/8" top and 1/2" bottom. Weaver also sells a die adapter (#65-6180) that changes a 5/16" hole to a 3/8" fpr $14.